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Everything posted by kev100

  1. I've seen it with my 10x50s from here in Dorset. It's very small at 10x, but the colour is obvious. Assuming you have a dark enough southern horizon you should definitely be able to spot it. Kev
  2. Flocking my 250PX definitely made a difference to how some objects appeared, but little to no difference to others. I put down my thoughts on my blog page, if you're interested: https://theastroguy.wordpress.com) Kev
  3. Well, it's true. I've never seen a space vampire with mine ')
  4. Hi all, thought I'd post an update. I took out the mirror, and checked on the clips ... Of the 6 pairs of screws (2 per clip), some were very tight, some were totally loose! I slackened off the tight ones, screwed in the loose ones, popped the mirror back in and recollimated, and yes! A quick check showed a definite improvement. Still not 100%, but near enough. I was reluctant to slacken off all the clip screws, and balance them exactly, as some screws were so tight, but I guess I got lucky and did just enough. Cheers, Kev
  5. kev100

    Hi from Dorset

    Hello, and welcome to SGL. Dorset's a great place for stargazing. Plenty of dark skies around!
  6. Thanks all. I was thinking about taking out the mirror to give it a clean anyway ... I'll check the mirror clips while I'm at it. Cheers, Kev
  7. Thanks guys. I'll check the focus tube (as best I can). I did remove it when I flocked the OTA, and it might not be exactly square. As for the primary mirror, it also was out when I flocked the OTA, but I didn't touch the clips, so I'd assume they're still at factory settings ... Kev
  8. Hi all, I guess I should know this already, but I can't find an answer on the web anywhere. I've collimated my 250PX as best I can. The secondary looks circular and central when viewed through the collimation cap, the primary mirror clips are all visible, and the laser collimator beam runs central. All seems well. The view is great, with stars defocussing to circular discs, with a central spot. However, when defocussing, the objects seem to stretch slightly in one direction (let's say 'horizontally') when defocussing outward, before becoming a circular disc, and 'vertically, when defocussing inwards (hope this makes sense). Does this indicate a slight collimation error? Cheers, Kev
  9. Hi. Is it possible to move my pin? Cheers, Kev
  10. I have to confess I can't comment on the fov being the same. I know there's a way of calculating binocular fov, but can't remember it just now. However, I do know that 'by rights' 10x50s should have a smaller fov, having as they do greater magnification than the 7x but with the same objective diameter. The Helios 10x50 design, though is described as 'WA', meaning wide angle, and the design of these binoculars has about 6 degrees fov (wider than many 10x50s, and thus taking their for into the smaller magnification territory of the 7xs ... Sorry if that's a bit vague, but I can say that the fov of the 10x bins is very wide. I can easily fit in the whole of the Hyades 'V' and the three stars of Orion's belt, something I can't do in the fov of my 20x80 Celestrons, for example ... Kev
  11. Hiya, I have the 10x50 model, and can heartily recommend them (in fact, I wrote the review on FLO's website ...). They are a little on the heavy side, but using a monopod (which I'd recommend over a tripod) makes using them much easier (and steadier). Great views of M31, and I have seen M33 with them, though it's a very low surface brightness object, and so isn't really what I'd call a 'binocular object'. I've just about seen M81 and 82, though again, at nearly 13 million light years away, these are very small at 10x mag, and require averted vision and good skies to see clearly. As for M13, I have seen it with these, but it appears as a very small, fuzzy 'star', so, again, isn't really a binocular object if you want to see individual stars/detail. The 10x50s are best on large objects (the moon, pleiades, hyades, M31, etc), so I'd say the 7x version is more so (having less magnification means less detail in distant objects) ... Kev
  12. Cheers Mark, I'll be sure to report back. Kev
  13. Hiya, I've seen M57 using my 20x80s ... very small, but the ring clearly visible (surprisingly). I also tried with my 10x50s but couldn't find it ... Kev
  14. Thanks Mark, I really appreciate your input, and I'm going to think on this some more before making the decision. My thinking currently, though, is that the 24mm 82 ES just edges it, mainly because it's a brand that I know (I already have and love the 8.8mm), and they seem to perform well in fast scopes (also, it has slightly larger eye relief and, as I do a fair few public sessions, that might make or easier on other people's eyes ...) I do like the idea of having really wide FOV EPs, though, and the Myriad is definitely within budget, so there's a good chance I'll risk it. Decisions, decisions ... Kev
  15. Thanks Mark and Paul, this is really helpful. The 24mm has always been my most likely choice, but the Myriad 20mm is a fascinating and really interesting alternative, especially at the price!
  16. Hi Mark, thank you. That's very encouraging. Cheers, Kev.
  17. Hi again, Just been reading this excellent review on the Myriad EPs, and the 20mm one does sound very good, but it doesn't say how these EPs might perform in a faster scope, like mine. Has anyone tried them at around f4.7? Cheers, Kev
  18. Hi all, and thank you all for your input. I had favoured the 24mm 82, mainly because of the smaller exit pupil and, perhaps, better contrast in the sky over the 30. I hadn't considered the myriad range at all, and that 20mm looks like a no brainer for the price. Will do a little research, read some reviews and see where it takes me. Cheers, Kev.
  19. Hi all, as Xmas is fast approaching, I'm trying to choose between the above 2 EPs. I've got a MaxVision 24mm ep, which shows a fair amount of pincushion effect, and I would like a wider fov. I appreciate that the 250px will test any EP, so I wondered if anyone can recommend either the 24 or 30mm... Cheers, Kev
  20. Hi ragworm, what scope do you have? You'll probably have noticed that the lower the focal length figure of the eyepiece, the higher the magnification. The actual mag figure that an eyepiece can deliver is related to the focal length of the scope. Kev
  21. Hi there, just pitching in on the subject of dew. It's unlikely it'll affect the primary mirror, but will affect the secondary and the finder. I use a dew shield made from a camping mat on my dob, and a similar one made from craft foam (though you could use camping mat here too) for the finder. They don't prevent dew building up, but do delay it. When it eventually builds on the finder I wipe it off with a very soft tissue, but when the secondary eventually succumbs, that's it for the evening ... Kev
  22. Hi Paul, I've been thinking about getting a 24mm 82 degree ES eyepiece to replace the 24mm 68 degree MaxVision I currently own (which I thought was great when I first got it, but it's increasingly annoying now). I've read good things about the 82 degree version, and am a bit surprised to hear you still experience coma with it. I've heard they're pretty good right to the edge. Kev
  23. I completely agree. Having thought long and hard about bigger scopes, I keep coming back to the idea that the 10 inch dob is just ideal. It's convenient (easily fits in the car), gives great views, etc, etc. Whilst I'd like to have a bigger scope, I don't think I could ever part with my 250PX ...
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