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kev100

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Everything posted by kev100

  1. Hi Chris, The 6mm (x200) would definitely be good on planets, and the difference between it and the 5mm, in terms of mag, would be minimal. You have to bear in mind that the more you magnify the target, the more you magnify any atmospheric humidity, moisture, haze, pollution and whatever else there is in between you and the planet. Lower magnification often results in crisper views, albeit smaller ones. Higher magnifications on all but the crispest, clearest night can be disappointing. Having said all that, I often bung in the 5mm for the hell of it, just for a look, though more often than not I'll back off a bit because the view's better. My most used EPs, on planets, the moon, clusters, nebulae and galaxies are the 8.8mm and the 20mm. I could easily get by with just those two. Of course, it's personal preference. Before you spend any money, are you able to have a look through another scope, at a club or other event? Going along to a star party (like the upcoming Astrocamp) is priceless, in that you get to try out all sorts of EPs and scopes, and really get a good idea of where you want to put your money ... and why. Kev
  2. Hi Chris, The 5mm BST will give you 240 times mag, which is at the top end of what's useable (at that mag things start to get a little fuzzy). It'll be very useful on the moon, double stars, globulars, etc. I have one and I like it a lot, but often I find that my 6mm EP (giving x200) gets more use and the views are crisper. Kev
  3. Hi Chris, depending on the particular nebulae you might want to consider an OIII filter, and/or a UHC filter (either 1.25in or 2in, depending what EPs you choose). Neither will be in a filter kit. Big clusters, like the Plieades and the Beehive will need low mag, wide FOV, as Stephan has suggested. 'Smaller', denser clusters (globulars, or M46 & 47, or 36, 37 & 38, for example) will need higher magnification for you to be able to resolve individual stars. As for galaxies, the two main EPs I use for these are my 20mm Myriad (2in) giving x60, and, for more detail, my Explore Scientific 8.8 (giving x136). You don't need hi mag for galaxies or nebula. Kev
  4. Hi there. Do you have a particular 34mm EP in mind? As for the barlow idea, again personally speaking, I'd hold off on that for a while. With your scope (assuming it's a 1200mm FL) the max useable magnification in the UK will be around 200-240 times, so something like a 5 or 6mm eyepiece (Something from the BST starguider range, for example). I'd then go for a decent mid range eyepiece, something in the 12-16mm range (maybe an Explore Scientific 82 degree, or again a BST), and finally a low mag EP, 24-32mm (again, BST/Explore Scientific are well regarded). As for field of view, anything from 68 degrees and up will blow your current EPs out of the water, and you'll get a couple of years use before itching to upgrade. I don't use a barlow, and with a decent spread of EPs, feel a barlow is unecessary... Just my 2 cents Kev
  5. Hiya, Personally speaking, I'd recommend staying with what you've got for now. As you use them you'll start to identify their shortcomings, and get a better view of the sort of features you want in an eyepiece (field of view, magnification, eye relief, etc). They you can research particular eyepieces, and start building up your own set. I've never seen a EP and filter set I was impressed with ... Kev
  6. Hi, It's a close one, for me, between my 8.8, 82 degree Explore Scientific, and the 20mm Myriad. Very different beasts, but both can end up staying in the scope for whole evening sessions ... Kev
  7. Hiya. I was on the Dorset coast, just to the west of Swanage. Seeing wasn't the best, and the horizon was a bit hazy, but definitely got it. Kev
  8. I recently bagged the last one on my list (M83, the southern pinwheel). Even with a southerly sea horizon it was tricky (took me a few years to get it!). Kev
  9. Hi there, Turn left at orion is a great book, don't get me wrong, but I wouldn't rush out to buy anything just yet. Get the (free) computer programme Stellarium, and do a little exploring with that. You can even set it up with your scope and eyepieces details and get a fairly realistic impression of what you can expect see. Next up I'd research polar aligning that mount. Knowing how to do this will make a big difference to the experience. Then make sure your finder is properly aligned. Definitely start with the moon, so you get used to setting up the scope and finding objects. Once you can actually set up and use the scope, then you can think about buying a guide like 'turn left ...' Kev
  10. Hi Don, Yes, a plastic tarp held in place with bungy cords or similar would be fine. Alternatively, 'toilet tents' are often used. Kev
  11. Fantastic. It does look like a fab site, with amazing southern views
  12. Awesome. It looks like a fab site, and one recommended by fellow SGL-er @Demonperformer
  13. Hi there, With the bank holiday weekend looking, and the moon and weather looking favourable, I was thinking about an observing session on the Isle of Purbeck on Sunday night (near Creech/Steeple). Anyone up for joining me? Kev
  14. Hi Gert, I prefer to just use a collimation cap when collimating my 250PX. I do have a Baader laser collimator, but when I set up the scope with it, and then look through the collimation cap, I don't see all the primary mirror clips equally. A quick tweak of the primary again, using the cap, and all's well. I believe that, if, when viewed through the cap, the secondary looks round, all primary clips are visible, and the center spot is bang on you're good to go. You don't need to do anything else. Kev.
  15. Maybe not. I believe the ES versions are better corrected for fast scopes than the MaxVision variety.
  16. To be fair, I didn't notice it to begin with either (is yours the MaxVision type?). It took a couple of years before I got to the point that I always saw it and struggled to not see it. Maybe I'll start noticing it more with the Myriad after a while...
  17. FWIW, I don't use a paracor with my f4.7 scope, and I doubt I'll bother. The 20mm Myriad does show a tiny amount of coma at the extreme edge of the FOV, but it's so much less than, for example, my previous low power EP (a 24mm MaxVision). You really have to seek it out. Kev
  18. Hi Neil, I can definitely recommend the Myriad 20mm (or its equivalents) in a 250PX. It's my most used EP, and quite often gets fitted at the start of the night and just stays there. Second fave is the ES 82 deg 8.8mm. I'm currently looking for something in between (to replace my 16mm, 68 deg MaxVision which has quite tight eye relief and relatively small fov). Don't yet have the funds for that one yet Kev
  19. Sadly, I've decided to wimp out of this weekend. The forecast is just too unsettled. Totally gutted. Kev
  20. Not connected to this in any way, but thought it looked interesting: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/231735397396695 Kev
  21. Hiya, I use a Manfrotto tripod for my 20x80s. I'm about 6ft tall, so the tripod's not tall enough for me to use standing up, so I sit on a stool (the drum stool that I use with my dob). Works really well. Kev
  22. Ah, okay. I haven't tried doing it that way, preferring instead to just control-click on a new app the first time, and select 'open' Kev
  23. Hi James, and greetings from Piddletrenthide Kev
  24. Hi Gav, I think it's different in different versions of OS. I've just checked and, in High Sierra, I only have this option now: Kev
  25. Hi there, Rather than go down the System Preferences route, and allow all applications from unknown developers, how I get round it is to find the application in the Applications folder (you should drag the icon there in the first place), hold the control key on the keyboard and click on the application icon. You'll get a pop out menu, one item in which is 'Open' ... Kev
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