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Darth Takahashi

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Everything posted by Darth Takahashi

  1. I've had some nice Vixen telescopes with the same tabs that did not produce diffraction spikes? Not questioning your answer because it seems logical but what's the difference between the FLT132 lens cell tabs and those of lets say a 102ED Vixen? I agree regarding the lemon statement, for this kind of money the telescopes should all be leaving the factory correctly collimated and optically tested. Neil.
  2. Sorry, yes your right about the brightness, they also look dim on my work computer. I adjusted them on my Apple and the screen is a lot better / brighter. I didn't do an RGB alignment, just the standard single point alignment with the quality set at 85%. I did increase the sigma clipping to 3 form 2 and that helped. Yes, the camera is good enough to begin with but its fast becoming the weak link unless someone knows how to continue to improve the captures using this particular web-cam, I'm always open to suggestions? Already tried an IR pass filter. Neil.
  3. JohnWC, How do you get diffraction spikes with a REFRACTOR? I know how I would do it, with a post imaging script, otherwise I have to live without them. Stars can grow more and more bloated with longer and longer exposures but they shouldn't produce diffraction spikes? To be honest, I haven't even read the review, hence the request for the link. However, I would not touch one of these FLT's with the proverbial barge pole! There again I don't need to since I have a perfectly good TOA130F which doesn't produce diffraction spikes. Neil. Neil.
  4. Perhaps a link to the original article is in order? I for you can't see the point of buying a Ferrari with a top speed of 30mph :-( Neil.
  5. Attached you can find my latest images of Saturn. The seeing was good but transparency was average. Anyway I tried to push to F22 but failed yet again. I still think the weather is holding me back but I'm not certain. F16 was possible and I think these are my best images yet. I took on average 1400 to 1800 frames and processed them through Registax as usual. Telescope: Mewlon M250@ 1.5x F11 with ExtQ Camera : Philips SPC900 I'm begining to see the camera as the weak link in my Lunar and Planetary images but it still maybe all down me me? Hope you all like them, Neil.
  6. Attached you can find some pictures of the Easter Moon. I tried to take some higher resolution shots and to some extent succeeded but I'm still unable to reach the F20 and above that some people here seem to be able to obtain? The first image is taken with my Mewlon M250 and Kiss 2x with a focal reducer in place. All the high resolution shots are taken with the Mewlon at its native F11 focal length and with my Philips SPC900 at the prime focus. It seem that to improve further I need to invest in another camera! Hope you enjoy them. Neil.
  7. Sorry the images are great and I would have loved to have taken them myself. I have found the article again and it is attached below. Lets take this further by PM or start a new thread because its very interesting info... Aza in my experience going beyond 10mins with a DSLR is a waste of time and that's with both my 1DMIII and Kiss 2X (450D). I can post some 20min subs of B33 & flame which are very disappointing . I kept going long and longer 3-5-10 & 20 mins and the noise kept pace! Neil. DSLRvsCCD_API.pdf
  8. Aza, the short answer is yes. I posted an article sometime back that proved this point. I think it was by Stark Labs, should be able to trace it back. Unless the DSLR is cooled its clear that the noise starts to build faster than the signal because of heat generated in the chip that cannot be removed. Cooled camera don't have this issue and therefore benefit from longer exposures. I'll look back for the article. Neil.
  9. Hold on a moment, I would like to know some basic facts? Whats the camera used and whats the optical train / system used? Finally was each image processed the same? Simply raising the black point will already kill a lot of noise without damaging the image / signal. It clear at least to me that an uncooled DSLR's limit is determined by the original noise produced by the chip and the amount of heat generate in the chip during the exposure. I have and can prove empirically the opposite point with a DSLR? I have no problem tracking for more than the required 20mins, however, I would say that this is the top end of my sky limit, weather dependent of course. I now do shorter sub's 5-10 mins and more of them to reduce the noise instead of going for longer subs. Neil.
  10. I like the sentiment Warthog, however, I do like most baby my equipment. It does not stop me from using it. I just take steps to minimize the risks. For example I will always place a ground sheet and a blanket on the ground. Then is I drop anything in the night I know what its falling on and can find it back again easier. As for the eyepiece just clean it and correct your neighbour behavior, electrocution may be in order... start with 50 VAC and wind the voltage up until he gets the point. Neil.
  11. Very nice image, I just wish the weather wold give me a break!!! Nothing but fine cloud... Well done. Neil
  12. Download Stellarium, it free and will help you locate Saturn. Stellarium You should definitely be able to pick out the rings system even though they are side on at the moment. Good luck. Neil.
  13. I have a cloud sitting right on top of me! And its going nowhere fast..! I guess I'm too far East... Holland. Neil
  14. That's a very nice image of Saturn. Sometime, depending on the eyepiece you can adjust the eyepiece so that it comes to focus at roughly the same point as the webcam. Try sliding it back and to a little when you put it back in after using the webcam. You might be surprised, 5mm out and there you are! Neil.
  15. Its already a very nice capture... I don't know how you found the 3 hours but well done. Neil.
  16. No a standard diagonal will do, you don't need to be so accurate you just need to bring the point of focus inside the range of the rack & pinion focuser. Good to hear that your sorted now... Neil.
  17. Now were are talking about my bread and butter scope! My TOA130 spends all its time permanently setup on the mount and can be used most nights without too much difficulty. The Mewlon M250 waits stored upstairs for those rare nights when I can use it on either the planet or the moon. If you can afford it, I'd go for it... You will not regret it as light grasp doesn't rule, not when you can attach a ccd and collect lots and lots of photon's... And I eyeball my targets manually as I do not have GOTO, so with averted vision I can see M1 with only 130mm of unobstructed refractor... not bad... once its on the ccd it jumps right out at you with as little as 60sec integration (HX916). Neil.
  18. You need approx 80 - 100mm additional length to come to focus. Diagonals are normally a standard length except when moving up in size from a 1-1/4 to a 2" diagonal. The barlow suggestion is excellent, if you have one try it. Neil.
  19. Let me know how this experiment goes on? I'm also in the same position. So far I have only been able to push my M250 to 1.5x F11 and that was a struggle even with an IR pass filter and a Philips SPC900 webcam... Definitely really interested in your results. Neil.
  20. That's a very nice image. I have always found this to be a difficult object to hunt down. Neil.
  21. Sometime you need an extension tube to increase the focus distance to allow it to come to focus. This is done to maximize the back focus distance on refractors. Alternatively, have you tried adding a diagonal to the focuser and then the eyepiece, this will also increase the length of the focus path, try to focus again? Neil
  22. I don't want to pee people of but I love my Mewlon M250! Once its cooled down, approx 1 hour, its a snap to use since focus is achieved with a motorized secondary. Once focused on a star I can unplug the focuser and forget about it for the rest of the night. However, just like everyone else my frustration is with the weather... I don't think its ever good enough here in northern Europe for these big scopes... What I mean is you can use them on the understanding that your going head to head with the elements = atmosphere? Using it at its native focal length is hard enough but using it with a barlow is just plain madness... Best I have achieved so far is 1.5x F11... and its was a struggle... I envy all those people that are somehow managing to image the planets at F22 or the Moon at F40!!! I wish someone wold called me when conditions are that good... Too good to be true, so I must be missing a trick and I already know about using an IR pass filter! So I love my M250:) but hate the weather..! Neil
  23. Very nice image and processing technique, perhaps you should start a contest? How many galaxies can you count? I'm sure that there are some really faint fuzzy's in there... Neil.
  24. The camera, hardware is good and the sensor ICX083 is very sensitive . The newer chips are touted as being even more sensitive but I doubt it. In any case I don't believe they are worth the extra expense . I have applied dark's to the data but the improvement although there is marginal. Its certain not like applying dark's to a DSLR capture (Mandatory). M1 actually popped up with only a 1min sub, on the night I tried 3, 5 and then settled on 10min sub's. They look awful when stretched in Maxim DL but what doesn't! No, the main reason that you should take a few dark's. I took an average of 3 dark's, is to remove hot pixels. This to me at least, has the biggest impact on the final image. My main issue is with the capture software, which incidently is still issued with the newer camera's, this has given up the ghost on me at least twice now and for no good reason. I am now forced into using Maxim DL for captures. I hope this helps Ron, it sounds like you already have all the necessary tools to take the maxmium benefit from the camera. Neil.
  25. South France sounds nice to be and from watching SAT24.com, Satellite Weather Europe. Watch the Clouds and Sun over Europe the weather looks a lot better than ours. I'm for the moment stuck in Holland because of the usual job and money issues... My vote goes to south France. I'll also visit if the prices are good. Otherwise for now you just have to dig in and wait for another clear night / nights ;-)
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