mikeobrien

If you split the cases holding the encoders be careful to unplug the cables.

That does look like significant wear to me.

Its only a cover so you just need to make sure its not rubbing.

Certainly wouldn't help there is quite a bit of play so you should be able to simply move it out of the way.

As in this picture but there are three.

They are around the outer perimeter the retaining ring unscrews but may need a tap to loosen it.

Send me a pm and I'll send my mobile number if you need to chat at all.

I haven't had the opportunity to try it's been patchy clear but with gusty winds. As you dissemble it place the items on sheets of paper and label them and take pictures ( I didn't but wish I had) The Dec axis is quite straightforward and I didn't have to reset the worm crown gear backlash as when the dovetail saddle assembly is removed you can just lift the brass crown gear out and clean and relubricate the worm gear in situe. When stripping the RA when the polar scope is out there is a round black metal retaining collar there are retaining grub screws to remove from this before you unscrew it if its stiff like mine was you can put the end of an Allen key in one of the holes in the end of it and give it a gentle tap with a rubber mallet which should be sufficient to loosen it then remove it by hand. Have plenty of kitchen roll handy and remove all the horrible black gunk lubricant and replace it with a good quality lithium. The drive has two bearings at each end one ballbearing and one needle bearing which has steel washers/tracks on each side. These can be removed carefully with long nose pliers. Be prepared when removing the bearings and cleaning them it gets messy! The good news is dispute mine being very heavily loaded it looks brand new inside without any signs of wear! Hope this helps. Mike

Done both axis now and feels really smooth, now if this wind would pie off! I might be able to use it.

Just cleaned and relubricated my Dec axis feels much nicer now RA maybe tomorrow night!

That's what I am hoping to get away with I've got some good quality white lithium lubricant.

Sounds like you might find something in there be it swarf dried lubricant hopefully nothing worse! Let me know how you get on as I'd like to do mine.

Managed to find a few pics here http://www.eastmidlandsstargazers.org.uk/topic/8269-what-makes-an-azeq6-tick/

Maybe just posting the pics of the dissembled mount would be good if its proving too time consuming to add a writeup.

You can get stainless steel hex headed screws from this is the Wigan branch but they are a chain. They sell them from singles to as many as you want and are very competitive. Brabbin & Rudd Ltd Leigh St, Wigan, Lancashire, WN1 3BE Tel: 01942 242933 Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

Brain and rudd Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

I think if someone devises a reliable method they could make a few Bob as many people would pay to have it done but be too scared to try themselves. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

Wow wouldn't it just Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

Debayering (damn spulchuck!) Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

Mm I am interested in the delayering but for my qhy8l CCD camera! I have looked to see if the CCD chip is available but haven't been able to locate one. If anyone knows of a source I would be very grateful. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

A technique that I have seen for cleaning sensors on DSLRs is to apply frog tape ( Homebase decorating dept) directly on the sensor as it comes off without any residue and takes any debris with it. Maybe you could apply it at first so it acts like masking tape. Just a thought, I would try it on a dead sensor first to check it does work without risking any damage and really doesn't leave any residue. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk