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Lonestar70

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Everything posted by Lonestar70

  1. Hi Vox45, Just to add to the confusion, The backfocus distance (sensor depth) of a Canon camera is 44mm, not 17mm... which makes a big difference to the above calculations. The SW focal reducer for the ED80 has a backfocus distance of 55mm and the required M48 Canon camera adaptor is sized (thickness) to give this distance. (same applies to Nikon cameras... the adaptor is the required thickness). You would not be able to use an OFF axis guider with this. I believe Baader, or Orion make a Focal reducer with around 90 - 100mm backfocus distance so this might be more useable... if it will suite your OTA... but you may still have trouble with the guide camera fouling on the DSLR body. For DSLR use I would be more inclined to use a finder guider, or a separate guide scope... it puts less strain on the focuser. Keep happy. Best regards. Sandy.
  2. The only use for an erecting lens would be for terrestrial use (wildlife etc)... there is no UP in space so a standard eyepiece will be just fine... you just need to get used to inverted and reversed directions. Take great care when viewing the sun... ALWAYS use a FULL sun filter over the front of the scope... and also the finder scope. Keep happy and safe. Best regards. Sandy.
  3. Hi Joseki, Just had a look in my HEQ5 and it is fitted with a 220uF 40v dc capacitor. This one would do you as a replacement: - http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/8621719/ It is 50v working and is a high ripple component... ideal for use in switching motor drivers. The 470uF ones should also be replaced as at least one of them is showing signs of blowing. Use any voltage above 16v... a 470uF from the same range as the above would be ideal. Running the mount at 13.8v would not cause this... I suspect the step up converter... which can output a lot higher voltage when not under load. A fully charged 12volt battery will be at 13.8v and the mount needs between 11v and 15v according to the manual. In practice most S.W mounts need a minimum of 12.5v or things start to get unreliable... I run mine at 13.8v from a Maplin stabilised mains power supply. (see FLO) Hope this helps. Best regards. Sandy.
  4. Hi Alistair, Yes it will clear the polar scope cover. Here is my one... there is around 3/8" clearance with the Polarscope cover fitted. It can be a bit fidely, since you need to keep the head moving whilst you screw the thing in... the push button ratchet helps a lot as you don't need to turn the handle all the way round. Once you get somewhere close to your Latitude then install the other locking bolt. Keep Happy. Sandy.
  5. Yes these are the correct ones for the HEQ5... the one at the top of the picture goes on the polarscope side and has a pushbutton ratchet which makes it much easier to adjust. I have the same ones on my mount. Best regards. Sandy.
  6. Hi, A 15 deg error is = 1 hr error... have you forgotten to set the handset to YES for BST (+1hr)? Did you go back to home position (park mount then unpark) before doing your 2 star alignment? Both easily forgetten when under pressure from the kids. Just a thought. Keep Happy. Sandy.
  7. Hi Nigel, Apart from re-downloading the V3.37 firmware did you try using the lower speed install function? The usual install rate is 115kbps but if you press the 'Setup' key after you plug in the handset power and turn it on it will set the rate to 9.6kbps. (you should see 'Lo' at the bottom right os the LCD screen). It takes a few seconds longer to install but can often cure a repeated failure to load. Worth a try. Hope you resolve the problem. Best regards. Sandy.
  8. Hi, When you selected your telescope in Stellariumscope what did you choose? I think you need to select 'Celestron Nexstar (compatible)' for the skywatcher scopes. Alternatively, you can download Ascom (free) http://www.ascom-standards.org/Downloads/Index.htm and follow this guide: - http://www.iceinspace.com.au/63-581-0-0-1-0.html I don't actually use stellariumscope... I prefer to use EQMOD and CDC... but it will work with stellerium. Hope this helps. Sandy.
  9. Hi, Have you set your handset to 'PC Direct Mode'? You need the handset to be in this mode for control by a Planetarium programme. You can find it under the ' Utility Functions' or 'Utilities' menu. I hope this helps. Good luck and clear skies. Sandy.
  10. I agree, however, Don't ever try to view the sun through binoculars or a telescope without the proper sun filter/s in place over the front end, and also over the finderscope. It would only take a few milliseconds for the sun to destroy your eyes permanently without the proper filters. Best regards. Sandy.
  11. The 200PDS is the one you need for astrophotography. It comes with a dual speed focuser and has all the bits included for eyepiece viewing. Hope this helps. Best regards. Sandy.
  12. Hi Tony, That is great news and you should be back in business soon. Steve, What mount have you got... there is nothing removable or reversible on my HEQ5 pro mount... it's just a standard 2.1mm jack socket... so no risk of any polarity change through use. It can be pulled out if the cables get tangled but that just turns the mount off... certainly no risk of reverse polarity. Best regards. Sandy.
  13. Hi Tony, Yes that is correct. Best regards. Sandy.
  14. Hi Tony, That's a tricky one to answer... if your power supply is correctly outputing at TIP POSITIVE then you should have no problem since everything else is SYNTA, including the cable and will be under warranty. If the power supply is outputing the wrong polarity then you may be on sticky ground... unless the supply was puchased from the same supplier as being suitable for your mount... in which case the supplier is at fault and must replace everything under the warranty.(That is the law as it stands in the UK... hopefully it's the same in OZ) If the power supply is from a different source, and is outputing the wrong polarity for your mount, then it could be argued that you are at fault, by not checking the polarity... in which case you could be held liable for replacement/repair costs and the warranty would be void ... although the replacement should be under it's own warranty. Hopefully the supply is OK, regardless of where it was purchased, and you should not have any issues with replacement cost or warranty problems. Good luck with everything. Best regards. Sandy.
  15. That is certainly an encouraging sign, however, I would still be inclined to check the output polarity of the battery pack and the wiring of the Synta cable to be sure the tip is actually positive... very easy to do with a cheap multimeter. There are a lot of other devices that have tip Negative so that would not be a very reliable way of testing. You should have no problem getting the mount replaced under warranty. It may be a good idea to take your power pack with you and get the supplier to show the replacement mount working from it before you take it away. Good luck. Sandy.
  16. Hi, Ok, it was just a thought. Very strange though... all the ones I have seen have the AF/M switch. Best regards. Sandy.
  17. Is there not a small switch on the lens close to the body mount ring for AF/M... and have you set the lens for FULL rather than one of the macro settings. Have you set the camera exposure to bulb... most Nikons won't do more than 30seconds without using an external release. Hope this helps. Best regards. Sandy.
  18. Hi Tony, There is no info on that power supply to indicate output polarity... some can be set, others can't... the cable would only be correct at the mount end if the input end was correct. If you have a voltmeter you can check the polarity of the supply output sockets. If polarity is correct at both ends of your cable then the mount was faulty... send it back. Best regards Sandy.
  19. Hi Tony, That is not good news but it sound like you have connected the power with the wrong polarity. What power source were you using... the plug that goes into the mount should be TIP POSITIVE... if you got this the wrong way round then you may have damaged the control board... sadly there is no reverse polarity protection on these mounts. Sounds likely to be the problem I am sorry to say. If this was not the case, and the mount is new, then perhaps a word with your supplier is in order since it may have been a faulty mount. Hope you get it sorted. Best regards. Sandy.
  20. Hi Dave, The ED80 requires a special FF/FR not the normal Skywatcher standard one. http://www.firstlightoptics.com/reducersflatteners/skywatcher-85x-reducer-flattener-for-ed80.html You will also need the M48 T ring adaptor for it (to suit your Camera) the standard T2 one is M42 and will not fit... I would also recommend you buy the special nosepiece for it (see additional items on link) which will allow you to add a light pollution, or other, filter to the optical train. Hope this helps. Good luck. Sandy.
  21. Hi Tim, Good to hear that you have got your mount working again, even though it set you back a bit money wise. The issue with the polarscope LED... make sure that both leads are insulated all the way up to the body of the LED... there is not a lot of wiggle room and it would be quite easy for the LED to short out on the mount body... maybe this was the cause of the board failure. Having said that... you mentioned signs of overheating on one of the original board chips... Perhaps it would pay you to check the meshing of the motor gears and especially the worms... if one of these was set a little to tightly then it would cause the motor to draw much more current... hence more heat in the driver chip... this also may only occur at a particular point in the worm and wheel rotation (periodic error)... so do a check for proper clearance all the way round the wormwheel. I hope you manage to get the remaining bits sorted and get back to viewing/imaging as soon as possible. Best regards. Sandy.
  22. Hi, If the mount has not been used since you re-built it it is possible that you have either got a trapped wire somewhere or perhaps a motor plug not fitted correctly... these you can check quite easily. also, check the condition of the connector the handset plugs in to on the mount... if one of the terminals has been damaged, or displaced, it could be shorting out... then this would cause problems with both the handset and the EQdir module... they are not the most robust connectors in the world. In the event that the motorboard has been damaged then a replacement can be obtained from: - http://www.modernastronomy.com/mounts.htm scroll down the mount page almost to the bottom. At around £100.00... so no need to buy the whole Synscan upgrade kit. Hopefully the problem is a trapped wire or a dodgy connector. Hope this helps. Best regards. Sandy.
  23. Hi, The size of the battery does not dictate the size requirement (gauge) of the wiring... the TOTAL load current does. As shown in your diagram, the maximum Total Load would be 7.5amp (dictated by the 7.5amp fuses in each battery lead). The 15Amp fuse, in this case is actually redundant. The first thing to do is calculate the Total load current required. To do this you need to establish the max current drawn from each individual outlet and add them all together... then fit a fuse just slightly higher than this... The15Amp may be about right for this. The 2 x7.5Amp fuses serve no real purpose and may actually give you problems when charging the batteries ...so remove them. The wiring need only be large enough for this load current, but larger wire will do no harm, and may serve you for any later additions... in your case I would recommend 1.5mm2 or 2mm2 cross section cable. If you are not using individually fused cables on all your outlets, then I would suggest that you fit an individual fuse in each output connection... rated for the load expected. E.G. a 5Amp fuse for the mount outlet and say a 3Amp for a dew heater outlet and the spare 12v outlet... the USB socket would be 1Amp (500mA per usb) Your Voltmeter should be fine as shown on your diagram (i.e. between switched + and common -). The other problem is charging... Unless your batteries are properly matched then one will dominate and will discharge faster than the other... the slower battery will then try and charge the faster one. This imbalance will also be a problem if you charge the batteries connected in parallel... one will hog the input current and could well blow the series 7.5Amp fuse...the other battery will not get enough charge current. Even using an intelligent charger would not resolve this... the charger would be influenced by the dominant battery. It is generally not good practice to charge deep cycle batteries in parallel... particularly when they fall below their 'Absorption Charge' level (approx 70% of fully charged level). I hope this is of some help. Best regards. Sandy.
  24. Hi, Try using 2 USB ports on opposite sides of the machine... I believe you have 3 ports... one should be using a separate host controller. Having 2 high throughput/priority devices on a single host controller is not going to work. Hope this helps. Best regards. Sandy.
  25. Rechargable AA or D cells can output an equal, or greater, current than zinc oxide cells... depending on make and actual structure. so current is not the problem... a lot of modern AA size cells are capable of 2000mAh or more. What the real problem is... is output voltage. Rechargable AA cells, or D cells for that matter are only 1.2v so eight would only give you 9.6v which is too low for the mount to function properly. Off the shelf AA or D non-rechargables are 1.5v so eight would give you 12v which is what the mount requires. D size cells will not fit in your battery holder, it is designed for AA cells. Either way, you would be better of getting a 12v 7Ah or higher rechargable sealed lead acid battery (also known as gell cell batteries) with an appropriate mains powered charger. You would then just need the correctly polarised lead to connect between the battery and the mount, as specified in an earlier post. I hope you can find a suitable one where you are located... try a proper astronomy store. Best regards. Sandy.
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