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Lonestar70

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Everything posted by Lonestar70

  1. Thanks for the speedy resolution to a problem which is becoming more prevalent lately on many other sites. Keeping SGL safe and secure for all of the members is very much appreciated. Password now changed. Sandy.
  2. Hi Giovanni, Welcome to SGL. Assuming you are not using the Skywatcher field flattener/focal reducer then you will need an 80mm extension to reach focus using a Nikon camera on the ED80 when not using the diagonal. I am not sure what parts you currently have, however, these are the parts I use on mine with a Nikon D90. Camera T-ring adapter: - http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/t-rings.html T-Mount adapter: - http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/flo-2-inch-t-mount-camera-adapter.html Extension(80mm): - https://www.harrisontelescopes.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=extension%20tube%202%2080mm&PN=Revelation_80mm_Extension_Tube_2_.html#SID=627 Both companies will ship to Europe. Alternatively you could mount the Skywatcher Field Flattener/Focal reducer for the ED80 directly to the focuser draw tube instead of the diagonal... then you would only need the special M48 camera t-ring adapter shown below: - http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/skywatcher-dslr-m48-ring-adapter.html http://www.firstlightoptics.com/reducersflatteners/skywatcher-85x-reducer-flattener-for-ed80.html With these 2 components fitted you would not require any additional extensions and the special M48 t-ring adapter will give the correct backfocus for the Nikon camera. I have had no trouble with the stock focuser on my ED80 when using the Nikon, so cannot comment or advise if you are having a problem with yours... perhaps another member can provide this for you. I hope this helps. Best regards. Sandy.
  3. Nah... he can't do that... it's the launch tube cover for the Polaris he uses for polar aligning
  4. Sorry Billy, You need to lay of the Highland Park... the turning gear for an obsy goes in the middle... not near the Transom. Just kidding, looks good and I sympathise with the backache... 2.8 tonnes is a lot of the grey stuff. Keep Happy. Sandy.
  5. Hi John and Family, Great to see the youngsters getting involved... just wait till they see Saturn and Jupiter. Enjoy your new scope. Best regards. Sandy.
  6. Hi Iwols, Yes you can turn the reticule, but not the polar scope... and doing so will not effect anything else. You would need to unscrew the polarscope eyepiece then slacken one or two of the 3 adjusting grub screws (be sure to support the reticule with a soft lens cloth or it can fall out) this will allow you to then rotate the reticule (but not with your fingers... use the lens cloth) to bring the cross hairs vertical/horizontal and then re-tighten the grub screws very carefully. Replace the eyepiece and you will then need to re-align the reticule with your mounts axis as you did before, since moving the grub screws will have messed your original alignment up. Quite frankly it is not worth the effort and you run the risk of damaging the reticule, which is very delicate, and you will gain absolutely nothing for your efforts since you will still need to rotate the mount in RA to get the Polaris circle in the correct place for the time and date when polar aligning. Hope this helps. Sandy.
  7. Hi Iwols, This is something a lot of beginners get confused with... don't worry your mount is working just fine. Home position is Not the location of Polaris it is the location of the Northern Celestial Pole, which is a little under 1deg away from Polaris. When you polar align the mount using the Polarscope you would place Polaris in the small circle which is superimposed on the periphery of a somewhat larger circle. The Centre of this large circle is the actual location of the Celestial Pole (= Mount Home position** with the weights straight down and the Scope pointing North)... hence, when you tell the mount to go to Polaris it points to the star, not the home (or Parked) position. **This would Normally be the location you use for Parking, but, as you will probably learn later on... you can change the mount parking position if necessary to allow e.g. an observatory roof to close without hitting the scope... however, this would not change the mounts RA axis, which would still be pointing at the Celestial Pole. I hope that helps. Best regards Sandy.
  8. Are you sure your handset is a Version 4? If it is a version 3 handset then you have loaded the wrong update... V3.37 is the latest for the version 3 handset which you would need the V3.3 loader to install. What firmware version did you have before you started? Best regards. Sandy.
  9. Hi, Press F6 function button on your keyboard. Enter your Latitude, Longitude, Altitude (if known) and a location name and country. Tick the box (bottom left) 'Use Current Location as Default' Press F6 again. Hope this helps. Best regards. Sandy.
  10. Hi Per, Ok thanks for the confirmation on camera type... that is quite interesting to know and I will be taking a closer look at Focusmax. Best regards. Sandy.
  11. Hi Tom, The 130PDS uses the same 2 speed focuser as the 150PDS and the height dimension you enquired about is 70mm on my 150PDS. I must agree with Uranium 235 as regards the proposed modification since even after obtaining an F4 mirror you would need to take approx 125-130mm off of the tube length... this would most definitely require a somewhat larger secondary mirror than the existing one, which is already a bit larger than the standard 130p scope... thus enlarging the centre obstruction even further. I can't verify the 130PDS tube dia, however, the 150PDS is 170mm inside dia. which would equate to the value of 150mm given for the 130PDS above by Uranium 235 (Mirror Dia + 20mm). Good luck and clear skies. Sandy.
  12. Yes I do think it varies with mount build and does not appear to be type specific... more like pot luck really. My own HEQ5 pro required the DEC rotated almost a complete 90 deg before I got a clear view through the polarscope. I have since adjusted mine to allow the view at Home position as I find it more convenient. I think the OP would be better off not being concerned about this aspect at this time and concentrate on becoming more familiar with the mount. Then, if thought necessary, the adjustment required can be explored later. Best regards. Sandy.
  13. Hi Peter, I agree with you as far as the alteration is concerned, however, not wishing to confuse the OP any further, I was stating things as is supplied by the factory. It even specifies on page 10 of the mount manual that you will need to rotate the DEC axis to be able to see through the polarscope. The change of position is certainly worth doing for future use though, since it only takes a couple of minutes to do, however this is not a procedure mentioned in the manual. Best regards. Sandy.
  14. Hi Iwols, A finder scope would leave you with a mounting problem since the majority are designed to attach directly to a telescope. A spotting scope is one option but you would need to be sure it has the correct dovetail mounting fitting to suit the mount. A better alternative would be the following: - http://www.firstlightoptics.com/startravel/skywatcher-startravel-80-ota.html This has several advantages... 1. It is much the same price as a decent spotting scope. 2. It has the correct mounting hardware for the mount. 3. It has a top connection for your camera. 4. It can be used as a scope in it's own right. 5. It can serve as an excellent guide scope for a later imaging scope... which is something you will need for long exposure astrophotography. Whichever you choose I would suggest you do a rough polar alignment of the mount without anything mounted on it... this will eliminate any potential clashes with the mount legs when you rotate the RA axis to get the Polaris hour angle in the right place. It also places less stress on the mount adjustment bolts (which are quite flimsy) by reducing the load. Finer alignment can then be performed using the Synscan handset Polar alignment routines or Drift Alignment using the scope. Good luck and clear skies. Best regards. Sandy.
  15. Hi, 5.5mm is correct for the OD (outside diameter), however, the ID (inside diameter) of the tip needs to be 2.1mm... some are around 2.3mm or larger and will not make a connection to the pin in the centre of the socket on the mount. The Positive tip polarity is correct. Good luck and be careful how you charge that battery... don't leave it un-attended... lithium batteries must be handled and charged with great care... if the battery gets too warm to touch when charging then disconnect it immediately and seek help from a qualified engineer. It should also have a LOW VOLTAGE cut-out or warning light to prevent over-discharge; which would severely damage the battery. Good luck. Best regards. Sandy.
  16. You can download version 3 Focusmax from here: - http://www.astronomylog.co.uk/focusmax-downloads/ CCDWare is the official download location for the latest V4. You can register it as a trial version but after the trial period you will need to pay for the package in order to continue using it. I have not tried any version as yet since I am not sure it works with DSLR cameras. Hope this helps. Sandy.
  17. Short answer is NO. With the HEQ5 mount in the parked position (Home position) then the polarscope viewing hole is blocked by the Dec Axis spindle... you would need to rotate the DEC axis by approx 90deg to be able to see through the polarscope. This is quite normal for the majority of SW EQ mounts. Hope this makes sense. Best regards. Sandy.
  18. Hi Per, Interesting... Does focusmax work with DSLR cameras? I was under the impression that it was specifically for CCD astro cameras. The blurb states it first takes a 3x3 binned image to work with... how does it do that with a colour DSLR sensor... the Bayer matrix would prevent that I would have thought. Or perhaps I am missing something... which would not be unusual Best regards. Sandy.
  19. Hi Lee and welcome to SGL, you have found the place for all your answers. Just post a question in the General and Getting started section (or other appropriate section) and you will quickly get a response from several members who are familiar with your particular issue. Remember the only daft question is the one you don't ask... we have all started at the bottom and most, if not all, of us are still learning new things. Good luck and clear skies. Best regards. Sandy.
  20. Sorry Matt it is the other way round... the RA axis is the one aligned with the Earths rotational axis not the DEC when polar aligning. Don't want the OP to get this wrong. Polar alignment aligns the mount not the telescope and can be done without the scope, or camera in this case, being attached. Once aligned the scope or camera can then be mounted and both axis can be balanced by adjusting the counterweights and/or the location of the scope/camera after which the assembly should be set with the front of either scope or camera pointing towards North and with the counterweights straight down... This is referred to as the HOME POSITION. Goto (star alignment) can then be performed so the electronics know where everything is in relation to this home position. Star alignment without a telescope will almost certainly need you to use LIVE VIEW on your camera in order to see the alignment star and centre it in the field of view... if you have a suitable laptop you can make excellent use of an astro capture program to control your camera which will also allow you to use on screen Live View and software focusing aids to make this more exact. For your Nikon I would recommend " BackYard Nikon" which will do just about everything you will ever need for astro work with a DSLR. You can find the latest version here: - http://www.otelescope.com/index.php?/topic/1242-backyardnikon-103-just-released/#entry8199 A trial version is available with pretty well full capability. Good luck with your new mount. Best regards. Sandy.
  21. The Iridium 12 satellite was in approx that position relative to the moon at 21:36:55 last night. Nothing else shows up on stellarium around that time... not that Aliens would take much notice of that though Could it be something military and therefore classified? Very strange. Nice catch though. Best regards. Sandy.
  22. Hi Phil, Ok about the live view, I was not sure if the 350D had it or not. I think that model also had Auto power shutdown which can be set for various timespans or switched off all together in one of the menu's... if this is active it could create possible problems with reconnecting to the USB ports when you try to power up again (the ports get hung up)... often requiring the cables to be disconnected and then reconnected. Hope you can find the problem. Best regards. Sandy.
  23. Stellariums Image data base does not contain images for every nebula, only those for which suitable photographs have been made available to the Author are currently included. If you type IC1396 into the search and then zoom in it will show tha core stars of the Elephants Trunk Nebula region. Good luck and clear skies. Sandy.
  24. Hi Paul from another Scot and welcome to SGL. That's 5 1/2 of us now so the Sassenachs had better watch out Clear skies. Sandy.
  25. Hi, Sikaflex is the business for sealing around the base periphery, however, it is possible the water is coming from beneath the concrete slab, especially if you did not install a waterproof membrane beneath the slab. If this is the case then you will need to coat the entire slab with a waterproofing sealant and one of the best is: - http://aquron.co.uk/aquron-products1/aquron-2000-waterproofing-for-concrete/guaranteed-waterproofing You will, of course, need to allow the concrete to fully dry out before you apply the sealant. Good luck. Best regards. Sandy.
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