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Everything posted by lensman57

  1. This is excellent Chris. If it were not for lamp post just out side of my house this target would have been available to me from roughly 11.30pm till 1.30 am. But no luck with that lamp post. Regards, A.G
  2. Make sure that the CC is held rigid in the focuser tube. It looks if the position of the sensor has changed after the initial exposure as you also have double diffraction spikes. I have had issues retaining the CC and the camera rigid in the SW focusers both with SW CC and Baader MPCC, this is just bad design of both the CC and the focuser tube. Check the tracking after making sure that the CC and the camera can not move under their own weight. A.G
  3. Check the primary retaining pads are not putting too much pressure on the mirror but the scope should be roughly in the same orientation as when you imaged as these look pinched to me . Once this is done you have to do a proper collimation. PS: Also make sure that the CC- camera set up can not move under their own weight in the focuser, this may not be so evident as in the beginning of imaging they look solid . A.G
  4. You don't need the ST80 for guiding. The 50mm finder guider is more than good enough up to 1000 mm of FL and as an added bonus it is much lighter, it stands less tall so the balance does not get disturbed, has a much wider FOV so you pick out more guide stars and is about a whole F stop faster so you do not need super sensitive and expensive guide cameras. A few weeks ago I used my Canon 200 F2.8 with my 383L+ to image SH2 129 and these lot were mounted on top of my Ascension 80 Apo that served as the guide scope. I had a lot of trouble getting the balance right and the guiding at 480mm of FL was not easy to say the least. With the benefit of hindsight I should have used my 50 or 60mm guide scopes rather than the heavy 80mm . A.G
  5. A southern beauty for sure, thanks for sharing. A.G
  6. Amazing depth and FOV, simply wonderful this is image is ( I am a crazy Star Wars fan ). A.G
  7. Hi Herra, lovely image coming from your Mono sensor. I have yet to make use of your good work on the 5100 , hopefully this winter. A.G
  8. Ultimately you need to make the choice for yourself but if I were you I'd go with Atik 383L+ mono. As well as the 383L+ I also have a 428EXC, 314L+ mono , QHY8 OSC and couple of converted DSLRs one of them is mono modded. The Atik is most used in my different set ups. It has a lower sensitivity than a 414 but 4 times the sensor area will more than make up for it. I have not noticed any noise issues either. Suffice to say the Sara, one of the best imagers here recently asked QSI to change the sensor of her ICX chipped camera to a 8300 KAF . The decision is yours. As for the reducer argument only use it if you need the extra FOV otherwise I personally prefer to fill the FOV with the target where appropriate. Regards, A.G
  9. Excellent start. There are a couple of issues that you need to address. There is a green cast around the star cluster, use HLVG to remove it. The background of both your images is clipped, you should always aim for a neutral background ( if possible ) which is not clipped to black. I have very quickly done a couple of corrections in PS just to highlight the problems, otherwise these are excellent DSO images. Regards, A.G
  10. Your stars are not in focus that is why you have discs instead of point of light. You also need to be careful with the DSS cosmetic correction sliders. These need fine adjustment or setting to zero as at times they have a tendency to do funny stuff to the core of the stars but first tackle the focusing problem. A.G
  11. If you manage to get an AVX that behaves itself then it is a superior mount to EQ5 pro , it is more comparable to an HEQ5 but as well as some good ones I have heard of some horror stories about AVX mounts. A.G
  12. This is absolutely beautiful, great processing as well for this very difficult target. By coincidence I had all planned to go for this target tonight as the weather forecast was for a long clear evening but as it turned out it was all clouds wall to wall. Regards, A.G
  13. This is an excellent first try. A.G
  14. Hi, I have just read your post and you seem to have quite a lot of issues with your imaging. I used to be like yourself so there is light at the end of the tunnel but with AP problem solving you need to approach it systematically. One step at a time. I don't know what equipment you have but the first step and the most important one is to get the Polar alignment right and the rolling train starts from here. Let us know how we can be of help but one problem at a time. My only other point of advice is to ditch the intervalometer if at all possible and use a laptop. I use APT for Canon and Backyard Nikon for my mono modded 5100 ( I had to construct a device to enable long exposure capability but it does work ), this will sort out a lot of your problems. A.G
  15. Hi Dave, Thanks for your kind words. I am away from Kingsway but just off Altrincham road. It is a nightmare now with all the tram lightings. I may give f2.8 a try but whether the 1.25" filters cover the sensor @ F2.8 is to be seen. I also forgot to mention that I held back quite a bit off the Ha data as it was overwhelming everything else. I guess the only solution is a hell of a lot more data. Regards, A.G
  16. This is excellent. A lot of hard work and dedication is gone into this image. A.G
  17. This is inspirational Olly and exactly what long exposure deep sky imaging should be all about. The fact that it is also educational is an added bonus. Regards, A.G
  18. Good set of images and congrats for the big day. Just make sure that you get your lady wife's consent in writing for future AP related purchases without objection. Regards, A.G
  19. Very good result for 30 sec sub exposure. There are a couple of points that I would like to highlight. 1) With such a small target such as m57 and using a well corrected scope such as the Edge there is very little if any benefit in using a reducer as the target hardly extends beyond the central 20% portion of the image. I would go for full FL if I were you and binning 2x2 is a very good idea. 2 ) There seems to be elongated stars and some coma in the upper left and right hand of the image. The centre and the bottom appear to be fine. You should investigate the optical train orthogonality starting with a check on the sensor tilt. Hope you don't mind the advice. Regards, A.G
  20. This is excellent, the Oiii signal is really strong and showing well. A.G
  21. You have quite a bit of signal that has been buried in the background noise around the nebula which shows the faint halo. You could probably extract this but some clever masking and stretching the data to just gently lift it above the noise. A.G
  22. This is very good and extracting the red channel only and working on that is the correct way of processing an Ha image from an OSC sensor otherwise you will also add up the contribution from B and G sensors which are nothing but noise. Regards, A.G
  23. I am sorry that you have decided not to post in AB but as long as I can gaze at your work over here I am happy. Regards, A.G
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