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Everything posted by lensman57

  1. I have done this on my I3-M . Very difficult print for a FDM . A lot of delicate supports needed and the temp has to be spot on for the bridges and overhangs. Your result is very very smooth and nice. Well done.
  2. Just be careful with handling of the resin. These guys do print with incredible resolution and smoothness but I am not sure how permanent the prints are. Like the PLA that is beautiful to print but has no real use in the real world due to lack of strength.
  3. Sorry for the late reply. The binos were securely mounted on top of my Gitzo Studex ( a relic from my more serious photographic past ) and a Manfroto gearhead . LOL, the center pillar for the Gitzo alone costs 3x as much as the Opticrons.
  4. Well, last Saturday night the clouds broke around 8 pm and I managed to get the 20X80s out. Jupiter was the first target. Quite low now and just over the neighbors roof. The disc was lovely and six moons visible. The four Galilean ones in a straight line, two on each side with Jupiter like a diamond in the middle and two others, one at 12 O'clock and the other at 7. It was a beautiful sight. Later on as my pupils fully dilated I could just make out the impression of a dark band north of the equator. I was in heaven. I then turned to Mizar and the double with Alcor was nice but tonight a miracle happened. The Opticron managed to split the Mizar A and B with clear black space between them. I first thought that the moisture in the air was playing havoc with seeing as Mizar itself looked quite spiky but I just touched the focus, adjusted my eyes and there it was Mizar B. Dimmer than Mizar for sure but still bright. Andromeda Galaxy was the next target and it was easy to find it. A bight core, like a star, surrounded by ever decreasing in intensity of a nebula like cloud. As the last target I swung for M81. Very difficult to find even with a star map. I managed to see something with averted vision but I think for this one true dark sky and no LP is required. So far I have had two short sessions with the Opticron and I am very impressed with it. Considering the price I rate it as outstanding. It is by no means perfect but for what I paid for it from FLO it is punching well above its weight. I only wish that this new menace that is unnecessary security lighting around my house would go away. It has become a fashion to light up ones back garden as a football ground. One of the main reasons why I stopped deep sky imaging. Now I have a pair of Pentax 12x50 from FLO on the way, for wide viewing, and I ust pray that someone would turn those damned lights off.
  5. Up here, they only get it wrong when it is supposed to be clear.
  6. I used to do deep sky imaging a few years back. My last image of M31 was in 2015. Increasing light pollution, increasingly bad weather, change of circumstances etc caused me to stop. A few weeks ago I took my 8X32 binos out for a change and enjoyed the wide field view of the sky. I decided to buy a new large bino. Today the Opticron Oregon 20X80 from FLO arrived. Guess what , the forecast for the weekend and most of next week is rain, strong wind and clouds. Manchester weather, luvely isn't it? A.G
  7. Thanks for the review. I am after a new pair of bins for casual observing and I wonder what the good people thought of the B&R 12X56 EDs? Many thanks . A.G
  8. D1 has a more severe cutoff of the IR than P2 but looking at the spectrum analysis it appears to eliminate some way into the Sii emission line too. This is probably why it is thought to reduce the background red glow of the OSC captures. The question is how much Sii emission your target has? Quite a lot of the DSOs are quite weak in the Sii region so it may not be such a big loss. A.G
  9. The Ha regions and the dark lanes are extremley well defined but I do find the background a little clipped and the continum is not representative of such a rich data. A.G
  10. The 3rd one is closer to what is expected from a DSLR. The first one is too Magenta and the Second one is too Yellow/Orange. A.G
  11. This is not possible unless your guide software can download the images taken by the DSLR video function. Get a proper guide camera and save yourself a lot of hassle. A.G
  12. You are using the wrong software for planetary imaging. You need to have either Registax or Auto Stakkert. These are free downloads. DSS is for long exposure Deep Sky Imaging and what is asking for is the calibration frames. My advice to you is to read a lot more about basic astro photography. Regards, A.G
  13. Very good detail in the horse and excellent control of the killer star Alnitak, the double has been clearly resolved. A.G
  14. Hi, This has been an abysmal year for imaging, at least in the north of England. I have not seen a proper clear night since the beginning of last OCT. May I wish the new year bring health, peace and prosperity to all the members of the SGL and a few clear nights up here wouldn't go amiss either. ATB, A.G
  15. This is not so straight forward I am afraid. Although in essence I have sympathy with the seller and the courier has some responsibility, at least as far as the loss of an item is concerned, you must also consider that people are fallible in general. If the total responsibility was with the courier then there is no way of telling if a posted item of a claimed value is actually worth the amount claimed and therefore the courier is then open to abuse. The other problem is the obligation to declare what is in the package, at least as far as the Royal Mail is concerned, and declare a value for it. This surely leaves the door open for abuse if people in the handling chain are not of 100% moral standing. It is best if insurance against loss of the item is taken out separately for all concerned but a degree of compensation at least for a nominal value must be attributed to the courier. At the very least the courier should refund the insurance premium and a nominal value for the inconvenience caused. Happy new year to all the members, A.G
  16. Hi, Here it is with a bit of messing about in PS. Some good advice here so follow them up. Good first try BTW. ATB, A.G
  17. This is very good. Lots of dust showing around as well is a bonus. A.G
  18. Having known these guys at a personal level, I too share your disappointment. Unfortunately the ever present pressure to keep prices low and the terms and conditions placed upon these guys by the importers/agents does not make for running an economically viable showroom, hence the rather impersonal cyber only presence. Regards, A.G
  19. Hi, Many thanks for the pointer. Last night I managed to find my way round the archives and downloaded the files that I was looking for. Now the curious thing is that I can open the fits files with FITS Liberator but neither PI nor StarTools are able to show anything at all. Very strange. Regards, A.G
  20. Thank you sir, I am off to cloudy nights to see what is going on. Regards, A.G
  21. Hi, I have not seen a clear sky over Manchester in the last 10 weeks. I am beginning to get rusty at processing. Does anyone know how I can download the data for Barnard 33 from HST please? Grateful for your help. Regards, A.G
  22. Do you realize that you are talking Astro Photography here not daytime snapping. My Atik 314L+ has a sensor of 1.4 MP, and it is still going strong. What on earth makes you think that you need 24 MP for any reason? Before you answer this let me tell you that I was and still am a Technical Photographer for the last 30 years so I do know a thing or two about photography. Use what ever is at your disposal but forget the MP measure of a camera as a yard stick for quality, that one comes from you. For your information the size of the sensor on the deep space camera of the Hubble Scope Telescope is 800 X 800 pixels square. Now that is food for thought isn't it? Kind Regards, A.G
  23. The above recommendations are good but IMHO you should not bother with this value . In practical terms with UK seeing it does not make a lot of difference to your guiding. Imaging is something else. A.G
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