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Everything posted by Merlin

  1. As I understand it, a piece of KG3 or KG5 is suitable for an ITF. Unfortunately I've forgotten the name of the UK supplier, as I need an extra one. Can anyone assist with this. The first one I bought for the LUNT LS50F cost about £5.
  2. It's been my experience that, whichever binoculars I handhold, they all register the heartbeat. It's impossible to get a steady image with handheld bins. My solution has been to construct a binocular mirror-mount. It's incredibly comfortable and shake-free, if we don't mind an inverted image. First surface mirrors are available at www.scientificmirrors.co.uk .
  3. Alas, I have double vision due to a muscle having relaxed in the right eye. This makes specs mandatory for myself.
  4. I simply removed the eyecups from my 8X40's, 10X50's and 12X50's binoculars to allow me to get more-or-less the full field of view. With my higher-power binoculars of X15, X20 and X25 , I cut and filed down spare spectacle lenses and inserted them into the eyecups. It works like a charm.
  5. Correction. the top magnification of the Helios "Voyager" monocular is 25X. This allows us to get close up to wildlife ( butterflies look superb ) without disturbing it.
  6. I have the 42mm Voyager 10-20X zoom monocular. I can greatly recommend it.
  7. I once tried a pair of 10X50 TENTO's and they were rubbish optically. Conversely, I had a pair of 20X60 TENTO's and they were good. Wish I'd kept them.
  8. Note that the makers only say "aperture", not "clear aperture". That's why they can get away with it.
  9. Ooops! Try again: www.edmundscientific.co.uk .
  10. Try www.edmundscientificoptics.co.uk . They have a huge supply of lenses, so you might get a suitable replacement.
  11. Regarding mounting your 'scope on a water butt. A plastic one wouldn't be suitable, as it won't dampen vibration. It's best to use a wooden barrel or some other substantial object.
  12. Hi Mark. I'd recommend looking at this website: www.scientificmirrors.co.uk .
  13. Add a foot long extension to the top of the main tube from, say, lightweight camping mat.This will keep stray light from entering the main tube. Manufacturers persist in making their main tubes too short at the top, probably to make them look more portable.
  14. I use the cheap 'n' cheerful AZ3 for small 'scopes. It's ultra light, but rigid. I added a counterweight like this one, but with a length of 12mm threaded bar for the arm: www.spacegazer.com/index.asp?pageid=97490 .
  15. A polaroid filter doesn't block the IR. A ND3 should be used with a wedge.
  16. I find that the best way to check is to be in a dark place and shine a torch at the back of the filter.
  17. I have a problem with the Caldwell "Catalogue". It's surely a blatant case of pliagerism .
  18. I had a pair of 20X60 TENTO binoculars. They were very good, but the leather case stank like a barrel of rotting kippers.
  19. It can help if we paint the knobs white, the better that we can see them in the dark.
  20. You might get some useful tips here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8TObET2F-EA .
  21. Telescopic meteors come towards us in the field-of-view. It might have been one, depending on the direction of travel.
  22. My first 'scope consisted of a ex-Gov. biconvex lens from H.W.English in the 1950s. The lens was waver-thin and had a focal length of about 56 inches. I also obtained a heavy, brass, gunsight eyepiece from English. My dad then fashioned a steel tube at his place of work and a simple steel alt-az mounting and tripod. Despite the crudeness of this non-achromat, I was astounded to see the mountains and craters on a first quarter Moon. I don't recall there being much chromatism evident. The magnification was about 50X. That first view, made a twelve-year-old feel like he could travel anywhere in the Universe.
  23. The reason for the humble Plossl giving sharp definition is because it is actually a type of orthoscopic eyepiece - not conforming exactly to the original ortho, but still orthoscopic in being free from the same aberrations that the Abbe ortho is free from.
  24. What is the observational status of America's classic big refractors these days? Are they used for the benefit of advanced amateurs, as I understand is the case for the Mount Wilson 100-inch reflector?
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