happy-kat

planets are tiny you may not need a flattener

if you were using a tmount with a tring to your dslr then you could insert the tmount into a barlow or screw it to a shorty barlow then put dslr with barlow into focuser on telescope i think

could look at this

https://www.astropix.com/html/equipment/canon_one_to_one_pixel_resolution.html

M82 has worked particularly well. For reduced trailing and rotation in the northern hemisphere aiming E or W ideally lower altitudes will help eek out the exposure time you may find you can use

This is in the list of ioptron devices in skysafari 7 plus on this android device

I haven't had a useable clear night sky for a while and it's the lyrids now

now that's just picky 😉

you're looking good for tonight re lack of clouds too

Welcome

Liking at sky watcher for example keeping in budget of the suggestion you gave there's the skymax 127 or 102 in a flavour of mount options.

Depends what's key to you like portability, goto, ease or weight etc.

have you tried sharpcap sharpsolve and the .25 database

(When viewing the site using the simple theme on a mobile all the review text is white)

Lovely to see images as well in your review, where they afocal images?

It's a great setup I like how the mount is versatile offering both altaz or Equatorial with the further option of adding a motor for in EQ use.

It's not looking optimistic with the Moon and clouds for me I'd have to hope for a fireball, I'll try and have a go anyway.

this is a quick process of the first file, got colour in the spiral nice

Hope you get clear windows I just looked at the aurora alert and it's red now

That image isn't bad, the star shapes are quite good so if that was the lens I had I'd be trying it again. 

If it's a mirror lens is it f8? Whilst that might be slower then F5 still useable on bright targets could also try it on bright globular clusters

I get odd white cross shape stars and think it's more the camera then the lens 

As processing skills develop old data can be revisited and reprocesses.

If you decide you don't want it, clean it and could pass it to a charity shop 

When fiddling with processing I prefer no refraction spikes, it's easier to make a star round if there are no spikes. 

For me the first question is defraction spikes or not

That's a corker capture and nice focus on your allsky stars

I see what you mean, love them all great images and variety

have yet to submit anything to any challenge, it's on the list

I connect my synscan wifi dongle direct to my compatible skywatcher mount and the dongle flashes when connected

The shorter the focal length used for imaging with would be more forgiving. If you have a 3d printer there is a wedge you can print at home Cuiv reviewed it on YT.

Have you tried turning off your home wifi, wrapping the dongle in tin foil and then doing the reset 

Didn't spot you already had the 127 mak. With the weather like it has been at least getting an astro cam you could start capturing the moon or planets with the 127 mak and then make ongoing choices with building use

At looks like you already have the 80ED telescope which would be great to use for imaging, I'd skip the 200PDS, there's plenty to learn with using the 80ED and great imaging to be had.

Depending on what astro camera you get you might find starting with a IR filter for the Moon or planets a great start.

Post processing, try them all, there are free trials if you're trying paid for software. See which one you get on with using, many are excellent from free to paid.

If starting with your static tripod use your wisest lens with your camera and take lots of frames, then when you stack them you could start to see more and areas like Deneb are great for this.

Have fun

 April did make me double think 🙂

This might help

https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/420735-synscan-wifi-reset-issues/

What are you using to power the mount