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Everything posted by Amra

  1. Thanks for all the suggestions, I realise I need a high FL to fill the Moon on the sensor as it snugly fits on my Canon 1100D APS-C sensor at 1000mm FL on my newtonian, but for solar eclipses a little wider is fine and I can crop a bit with 12MPs. Isn't a barlow a problem on a full frame sensor or can you get 2 inch big barlows so you don't lose part of the image? Really the ultimate setup I think would be a short FL refractor if I could succesfully use barlows with it just for Moon/Sun shooting, because then I'd have a scope for deep sky as well with low FL and more forgiving for track accuracy on the Star Adveturer. I will check these scopes out, cheers!
  2. Hey everyone, I want to buy a refractor for travel, especially to eclipses and to use with my Star Adventurer (5KG load capacity.) and Sony a7S camera - so would be great if it was full frame compatible. It's been a long time since I last researched this so I'm not sure what developments have happened since then. I looked at the Williams Optics Star 71 beforehand and liked it, but it's 350mm focal length is a little bit lacking for the Moon/Sun close-up, I wish I could use a barlow or something on my full frame for that purpose only, otherwise the focal length is fine. Also it seems that it has a 30mm (APS-C) imaging circle. Another option is the SW ED80, weighs around 3kgs and has a 600mm focal length, needs a field flattener though and probably doesn't have a full frame image circle. You guys have some other refractor in mind that might fit the bill?
  3. I think it would be handy for when I only want to use the telescope for observing.
  4. I have a HitecDCfocus and a Skywatcher Auto Focuser. With the software provided by HitecAstro I can control the focus continously or by steps and freely slew pressing down the IN/OUT button and it will stop immediately when I release the button. I want to do the same with ascompad through ASCOM so I can do this on my PS3 controller, but it doesn't seem to be possible to do it continously like in the software, but only in steps. Can someone tell me if it's even possible to do what I want with ascompad? I mean, I can select 'continuous' in there, but what it really means is that it will do increments of whatever steps I choose while I'm holding down the button and stop doing it when I release it, which is clunky and annoying. I can not choose focuser speed in there either. Is there an alternative or is ascompad mainly meant to help finetune focus in capturing software? Because I want to use this for viewing purposes as well.
  5. Never mind, I wiggled the focuser knob a little bit and somehow now the auto focuser could move again. Maybe this will be helpful for someone in the same predicament in the future..
  6. So I was playing with my setup and configuring my HiTecAstro USB focuser so I could move my focuser with my gamepad and suddenly the SW Auto Focuser stops responding and moving completely. I've tested with my hand control that comes with the auto focuser too and it's not responding there either. The HitecAstro box is hooked up straight to 12V with a cigarette plug. Can I possibly have broken something simply by sending commands to the focuser through the RJ cable? Is there anything I can do or is my unit bust? How frustrating. Any ideas... I'd like to avoid buying a new unit.
  7. Thank you for your suggestions. Of course I'd like to fix my two pairs and I will another go at it soon.
  8. I know 'robust' & 'inexpensive' hardly go hand in hand, but I was hoping for some suggestions none the less, I'm not against searching on Ebay for some older used binos that fit the bill that might be less expensive. I've had two pair of 15x70 binoculars (Celestron & Teleskop-Express) that both have gone out of collimation after a while. I know that that these binoculars are prone to miscollimation and bad QA, it comes with the very low price I suppose. I would like something that I can go traveling with (so not too heavy) & that can handle a bit of rough handling without so easily going out of collimation, I gather that the weight of the binos increases as well when they have a more sturdy construction, but I'm hoping you guys have some suggestions, I would appreciate any help.
  9. That said, this seems like an issue a warranty might cover. Does anyone know how long the Teleskop-Express warranty is for? I couldn't find that information. I bought these in March 2015.
  10. Hey, thanks for the reply. Mine are these: https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p1420_TS-15x70-Porro-Binoculars---LE-Series---for-low-light-conditions.html I've looked into the tubes now and discovered that it's my left tube (without the adjustable diopter) that seems to be off collimation. I didn't know I could reset the dioptre, maybe I can fix this myself then.
  11. Yes, you are right, the exposures were 30s ISO2000. The reason I used 30s exposures was to avoid bulb mode, which introduces the 'star eater' issue in the camera's inhouse processing, I haven't actually researched this problem extensively yet as I've only had the a7S a few months. My camera is unmodded.
  12. My TS-Optics 15x70 have a problem with the focus, and it can't be fixed with diopter adjustment. My eyes are the same, but even if I adjust the diopter all the way to maximum minus, the focus will not be the same in both eyepieces. I'm not sure how long this problem has been there, but I've never dropped the binos, however I have had them traveling with me for months when I went backpacking. I have just now checked the collimation of the binos and they are out of sync in both the vertical & horizontal direction, not by huge amounts, but definitely well off. When the focus is of as well however is this even cause by bad collimation? I had have some Skymaster 15x70 binos as well where I tried to fix the collimation, but ended up making it worse, so I'm treading lightly now and asking for some advice before I make things worse. Thanks!
  13. Thanks for the reply! Yeah, agreed, as someone even further up north than you, it was amazing to see & image these southern objects. I have data of the LMC as well, haven't worked on it yet though.
  14. Hey guys, been a long time since I posted here and since I sat down to process some DSOs, but I always got good advice here on SGL and people have been nice to have a go at my data in the past, it's always fun for me to see what people can manage to pull out of the data. I've recently been to Australia where I was fortunate enough to get a lot of clear dark skies in New South Wales in April & May. I imaged a lot of the amazing DSOs in the southern hemisphere and went home with dozens of GBs of data. Now I'm slowly processing some objects in PixInsight, but I'm quite a novice at using the program, slowly making progress & learning though. I'm astonished by the program's ability to pull out details out of my stacks and the colour calibrating & noise reduction. I've been following this guide by Kayron Mercieca to process my data and I find the workflow easy until I stretch the data, there's just so many steps that I seem to lose patience and settle with the result I have, which while half decent, could probably be a lot better. If anyone else knows of some good resources, feel free to share. I think I need to become more comfortable with the different tools in the program and learn to use them based on the data at hand, rather than following a workflow like it's set in stone. While I do get a lot of detail in my images, I can't seem to make them 'pop', they look quite dull to me and I would like to learn how to make them look more spectacular, I believe the data is there to make it happen, I just seem to lack the ability. Here's one I processed in the past, AstroBin - Constellation Taurus and another widefield I processed recently of the Lagoon & Trifid Nebula - both of them have plenty of detail, but again as I said look quite dull. I think I might be overdoing noise reduction, since I noticed on my Lagoon & Trifid stack that it was quite free of noise and the noise reduction seemed to remove finer detail, so I used a lot less than that guide recommended, but this stack of SMC on the other hand has a lot more noise, I think because it was closer to the horizon. Tonight I worked on a picture of the SMC. I'll attach a color & mono version. I would like some help with these and see what can be pulled out of the data. I feel like maybe I just need to spend a lot more time with PI to get more comfortable with it and maybe I lose patience too fast. I've attached a PixInsight .xisf 32-bit file, calibrated & colour balanced & 16-bit .tif of the same data. Any assistance would be appreciated. 200mm_a7S_SMC_DBE_DBE_ColourCal.tif 200mm_a7S_SMC_DBE_DBE_ColourCal.xisf
  15. 4 minute unguided, that's nice. Is it with a DSLR attached as well?
  16. Is there anything lighter I could look out for? Or can someone recommend me a telephoto lens for astrophotography?
  17. I have the exact same inquiry in another thread so I'll be following this discussion. Although it looks like I should just drop the idea with a refractor and get a decent telephoto lens instead to use with my SW Star Adventurer.
  18. Yes, thanks for that suggestion. I did just read about the Optics Star 71 today, looks like a wonderful telescope. It's definitely an option. It's a bit less than double the cost of the ED80 and no case, but for a long-term investment superior optics that allow me to use a full-frame sensor is a plus.
  19. Hi guys, I need a new lightweight imaging telescope that I can use together with my SW Star Adventurer mount, which carries 5 kg of gear. I obviously want to do DSO and as long exposures as possible. Now all the tips & literature I read on astrophotography back in the day often suggested a particular scope, the Skywatcher ED80. The OTA weight is 2.5 kg, with camera & finderguider it's probably around 3 kgs. I do remember the rule that you shouldn't load more gear onto the mount than ½ the max load capacity of the mount for astrophotography & thus maybe the ED80 is too heavy for my SW Star Adventurer? I'm currently leaning towards the ED80 as my portable imaging telescope. I would need a field flattener & autofocuser for it as well, I don't think any other accessories are necessary? The reason I made this thread was to get ideas & suggestions from more knowledgeable members of this forums & to check if there are other options I should be looking at instead. Your feedback would be very welcome.
  20. Very nice! I've attempted white light mosaics before and given up because of the same reasons, really difficult to get it to stitch reliably.
  21. Thanks! Weather was great for once, been cloudy for a month so it was great to get to do something.
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