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Amra

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About Amra

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    Proto Star

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Faroe Islands

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  1. Thanks for all the suggestions, I realise I need a high FL to fill the Moon on the sensor as it snugly fits on my Canon 1100D APS-C sensor at 1000mm FL on my newtonian, but for solar eclipses a little wider is fine and I can crop a bit with 12MPs. Isn't a barlow a problem on a full frame sensor or can you get 2 inch big barlows so you don't lose part of the image? Really the ultimate setup I think would be a short FL refractor if I could succesfully use barlows with it just for Moon/Sun shooting, because then I'd have a scope for deep sky as well with low FL and more forgiving for t
  2. Hey everyone, I want to buy a refractor for travel, especially to eclipses and to use with my Star Adventurer (5KG load capacity.) and Sony a7S camera - so would be great if it was full frame compatible. It's been a long time since I last researched this so I'm not sure what developments have happened since then. I looked at the Williams Optics Star 71 beforehand and liked it, but it's 350mm focal length is a little bit lacking for the Moon/Sun close-up, I wish I could use a barlow or something on my full frame for that purpose only, otherwise the focal length is fine.
  3. I think it would be handy for when I only want to use the telescope for observing.
  4. I have a HitecDCfocus and a Skywatcher Auto Focuser. With the software provided by HitecAstro I can control the focus continously or by steps and freely slew pressing down the IN/OUT button and it will stop immediately when I release the button. I want to do the same with ascompad through ASCOM so I can do this on my PS3 controller, but it doesn't seem to be possible to do it continously like in the software, but only in steps. Can someone tell me if it's even possible to do what I want with ascompad? I mean, I can select 'continuous' in there, but what it r
  5. Hey, do you still have this? I'm in the Faroe Islands though, I'd be interested in buying it.
  6. Never mind, I wiggled the focuser knob a little bit and somehow now the auto focuser could move again. Maybe this will be helpful for someone in the same predicament in the future..
  7. So I was playing with my setup and configuring my HiTecAstro USB focuser so I could move my focuser with my gamepad and suddenly the SW Auto Focuser stops responding and moving completely. I've tested with my hand control that comes with the auto focuser too and it's not responding there either. The HitecAstro box is hooked up straight to 12V with a cigarette plug. Can I possibly have broken something simply by sending commands to the focuser through the RJ cable? Is there anything I can do or is my unit bust? How frustrating. Any ideas... I'd like to avoid buying
  8. Thank you for your suggestions. Of course I'd like to fix my two pairs and I will another go at it soon.
  9. I know 'robust' & 'inexpensive' hardly go hand in hand, but I was hoping for some suggestions none the less, I'm not against searching on Ebay for some older used binos that fit the bill that might be less expensive. I've had two pair of 15x70 binoculars (Celestron & Teleskop-Express) that both have gone out of collimation after a while. I know that that these binoculars are prone to miscollimation and bad QA, it comes with the very low price I suppose. I would like something that I can go traveling with (so not too heavy) & that can handle a bit of rough handling without
  10. That said, this seems like an issue a warranty might cover. Does anyone know how long the Teleskop-Express warranty is for? I couldn't find that information. I bought these in March 2015.
  11. Hey, thanks for the reply. Mine are these: https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p1420_TS-15x70-Porro-Binoculars---LE-Series---for-low-light-conditions.html I've looked into the tubes now and discovered that it's my left tube (without the adjustable diopter) that seems to be off collimation. I didn't know I could reset the dioptre, maybe I can fix this myself then.
  12. Yes, you are right, the exposures were 30s ISO2000. The reason I used 30s exposures was to avoid bulb mode, which introduces the 'star eater' issue in the camera's inhouse processing, I haven't actually researched this problem extensively yet as I've only had the a7S a few months. My camera is unmodded.
  13. My TS-Optics 15x70 have a problem with the focus, and it can't be fixed with diopter adjustment. My eyes are the same, but even if I adjust the diopter all the way to maximum minus, the focus will not be the same in both eyepieces. I'm not sure how long this problem has been there, but I've never dropped the binos, however I have had them traveling with me for months when I went backpacking. I have just now checked the collimation of the binos and they are out of sync in both the vertical & horizontal direction, not by huge amounts, but definitely well off. When the focus
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