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Everything posted by chrisgtl

  1. Looks like I am back to the X-CEL LX range then. lol Thanks for the link, it made for a lovely Thursday afternoon read.
  2. Thanks for the report lionel. This user-feedback means so much more than anything else on the internet.
  3. Interesting thread as I am in same boat as the OP. I was a couple hours away from ordering a 5mm Celetron X-CEL LX but stumbled across this. I may have to have a rethink after seeing all the +1's for the BST range.
  4. I'm back!!!! wooohoooo....... Something has just occurred to me - my primary mirror does not have a centre dot/mark. So really, is my collimating all a waste of time? Oh bum!!
  5. Thanks again for the added info. I've been reading about EP's and this one seems a good choice to go for - Celestron X-CEL LX 5mm. I also need to have a proper look at my TAL Barlow because I can see multiple colours around one edge of the glass, like it has some oily fluid in there somehow. On a quick side note; Is there a classifieds section on here for members who stick around? (high post-count/membership length)
  6. hahahaha - I've just slopped coffee down myself. Yes I do have this part on my focuser, and I did wonder why there was an inner piece.......................why did I not just measure one of my EP's, why did I not just use common sense and realise my EP's are not in any way or form 2", right now I feel a danger to society because of my stupidity!!! It's not my fault, I'm just excited, and when I'm excited I obviously become..............................THICK!
  7. Wowzers! That is some seriously good reading you supplied there AndyH - Just half way through your collimating method with the 35mm film case & pinhole. Very nice indeed!! Glad work is quiet at the moment, I've got some serious brain scratching to do this afternoon. p.s - Did you see my question about the 2" and 1.25" EP's. I'm guessing most of the aftermarket EP's available to buy are 1.25" so I need a 2" to 1.25" converter?
  8. Yes I see what you are saying - it is a true shame TAL overlooked this simple mistake. I suppose I could always take the locking knob out and get a local engineering place to make one longer or cut one down. However if I don't need to fully tighten/turn them I should be ok with the flawed design. I'm attaching a picture of the counter weight problem so I can try describe it better (my first attempt at describing it was v.poor). Looking at this photo maybe I'm been completely simple by not having the counter weights in the right place, the small arrow where the gap is between the top counter weight and the angle adjuster gets very small when angling the scope more towards the horizon. It's very hard for me to get my fingers in and adjust the angle smoothly when there is so little space for my fingers... I'm looking at EP's now - maybe a 5mm from the range that was pointed out earlier in this thread > http://www.firstlightoptics.com/celestron-eyepieces/celestron-x-cel-lx-eyepiece.html Are these EP's 1.25" or 2"? I can't find anywhere that says what size they are........if they are 1.25" am I; a) Better suited with a 2" EP Need some sort of reducer so I can use 1.25" EP's Thanks again, Chris
  9. My lock knob knocking is rubbing against my other knob.......I'm getting advice from my GP. Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
  10. Hi all, I've just signed up after buying my first scope. Now a proud owner of a TAL 150P and MT-1 mount. Looking to meet up with locals so I can pick brains and learn handy tips. I've made a thread about my experiences so far in the newbie equipment section. Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
  11. The 3rd image is about what I got through my 7.5mm EP for reference. I was hoping I would see a similar image through my EP to the 1st image on the link. Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
  12. Funny you should link me to that video as that is the one I used to clean the primary. The only difference I did was drag the cotton wool over the mirror while it was submerged under water so the weight of the wet cotton wool didn't apply any force to the mirror. Used deionised water to rinse the mirror thoroughly after soaking the mirror about 5 times, cleaning the plastic bowl and changing the water between each soak. Primary looks so different now! On my first viewing with dirty mirror I could just about make out the cloud bands of Jupiter. The second night with clean mirror I could see much better detail on Jupiter. So quite happy I spent all that time cleaning and collimating it. I had a nightmare using the collimator for the first time, spent about 4 hours trying to get it spot on, with plenty cooling off periods between each attempt. I think it is done now, all the circles seem central now, its confusing to determine when the reflections are playing tricks on the brain so used the paper in the OTA trick and also used the brown card to backdrop the secondary. One thing that I don't understand with my MT-1 stand is the two locking nuts are up against each other and because of the cog like ends they lock into each other. Surely this can't be right? Also the counter balance weights get very close to the little angle adjustment when the telescope is angled towards the horizon. I was expecting Jupiter to be bigger using the 7.5mm plossl but maybe I was expecting a little too much from a 6" reflector. If I'm using a 7.5mm EP with my TAL 150P does this mean the magnification is x100? I have been reading about realistic magnification that is usable and seem to think I came across people saying x150 is the limits for good viewing of non-deep space objects? How long should a telescope be outside cooling down before I start using it? I left it half hour but maybe this wasn't enough? The scope did indeed come with the original finder so will give that a go sometime. The telrad was good once I calibrated it against Jupiter b however the glass/plastic window kept fogging up outside. Sorry for all the questions, thanks for the help all. Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
  13. Just been to pick the telescope up. Everything looks good apart from the primary mirror which looks spotted with dust/dirt. One of the OTA caps is broken and has a hole from where it is cracked, not too bad but he used this one to cover the EP end which means dirt from his shed has settled onto the primary mirror. Shame he didn't use the broken cap for the bottom end instead! Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
  14. You have been fantastic AndyH. Thanks a bunch! Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
  15. Oh good! He said it comes with all the OEM equipment plus the premier cheshire collimator and telrad finder. I've bought it and pick it up Fri/Sat. I have some serious reading to do! Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
  16. Pics are here http://db.tt/kFpcb3yn http://db.tt/xpvWY1pe http://db.tt/kbhuDGmf Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
  17. I'm not sure. Will I be able to tell from the pics he sent of it? Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
  18. Yes comes with the pier mount. OK, which EP's would you suggest so I can get an idea of additional costs.
  19. Hi all, I have been wanting to get into Astronomy for a while now and recently moved house which allows me to eventually buy a telescope. We now have a large rear garden with concrete path area for a scope to sit. I have been offered a second hand Tal 150P for £240 - firstly is this a fair price for a 2nd hand Tal 150P? It comes with additional telrad finder and premium collimator. Only two EP's are supplied, a 7.5mm and 25mm - is this suitable or would I also need the barlow lens as supplied with a brand new 150P? Sorry for all the newbie questions, I see lots of people on here have a Tal 150P so thought you would be able to tell me the facts.. Cheers all, Chris
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