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Everything posted by Erquy

  1. Hi my 1st trial on Andromede. Note I am not geared for this: Skymax 102 (f12,7), on Alt Az. Nevertheless not too bad, I am happy (I did not spend too much time on focusing, and not that long time in total). But that tells me Its worth trying more. Canon EOS1100d prime focus 25*15 sec subs @ ISO3200, 10 darks, 10 flats. Stack in Nebulosity 3
  2. Erquy


    From the album: first images skymax 102 + DSLR

    25*15 sec at 3200 ISO. 10 flats, 10 darks. 1st trial on M31
  3. Erquy

    jupiter + Io 27 Feb

    From the album: first images skymax 102 + DSLR

    EOS1100d, movrec *5, barlow 2,5. 90% of approx 2500 frames in registax + cropped in GIMP
  4. Then I continue! Tonight seeins was good and got that one. I could capture quite a lot so, I have plenty to process (and from this one, I can see now much more differences when processing). I caught Io at the same time. about 90% of 2500 frames. 2,5 barlow, EOS1100D captures in Movrec *5, stack in registrax 6 and cropped in GIMP
  5. Mikey, yes with T adpator: DSLR -> T ring -> T adaptor -> EP holder Below simple T adaptor http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p201_TS-Adaptor-1-25--to-T2---Focal-Adaptor-for-1-25--Focuser.html
  6. Erquy

    full moon

    From the album: first images skymax 102 + DSLR

    eos 1100d, avi. Stack in Registrax
  7. and now the 4th. I am getting there! And most surprisingly, pretty bad seeing tonight (naked eye, I can only see jupiter and Capella, high altitude clouds all over while above previous cases were really good conditions. Main difference below is that I use a new barlow (2,5 Revelation instead of the original 2* economical barlow that came with the scope). Hopefully better conditions in coming days!
  8. I think it depends of the quality of the frames to know how much you shall stack. In registrax (at least v6, don t know for previous ones) after aligning, i always check the quality spread o (u can generate an histogram which shows the quality spread of the frame vs the initial -then critical to choose a good reference-) In some cases, the quality is consistant all the way, meaning i stack 90%. in some other, quality difference can be bigger an bigger above 50% or even 20 or 30% (in such case may because the reference frame or alignement points were not rights), then i keep below 50% and limit. In such a latter case, you can clearly see difference if you stack 50 or 90% (and then it can be worst at 90%) If consistant, not that much dirrences between stacking 750 or 1500 frames (say for a 2000 frame avi)i would say. Quality depends of the seeing conditions /turbulences, so can be different anytime, and u need to check this histogram and look overall the frames once in order from best to lowest quality (if align points/ reference are not wrongly chosen). P i am new and playing with stacking only for 1,5 months, but that s my understanding from my little experience, may be wrong
  9. Hi! Just wanted to share my first impression in upgrading my ep. Note i am a beginer (started only 1,5 month ago with my 1st telescope skymax 102 synscan alt az goto coming with the 'super' sw 10 mm and 25 mm and the 'economical barlow sw *2.Also i can mention i have very good seeing conditions from my garden (i live in a small town, just south with no light pollution in south direction). I think it is pretty much consensus reading post that the original barlow and the 10 mm ep are rubbish. I can only confirm it after my upgrade (the 25 is pretty ok): i bought a 8 mm TS HR planetary , a 32 mm TS super plossl and the 2,5 barlow from gso. In short.. It is a new life to my scope! 32 mm vs original 25mm: as expected, much brighter contrast and sharpness, much nicer to look at the moon (25 mm is about the full fov, so a bit more space is welcome) also more comfortable. With the 2,5 barlow, perfect 12.8 mm for the moon and better tan using original barlow. I have not look at dso, but i am sure it will be way better (apart the pleiades, difficult to see andromede or orion nebula withe 25 ) 8 mm vs 10 mm: wow! Much better in all terms by far, impressive i was a bit afraid i push it too low (small scope), but no problems at all on jupiter and fantastic on the moon (the 10 does not give much on jupiter) i even manage with the 8 mm +2,5 barlow and not that bad result on moon and jupter!! While being above magnification limits. Not sharp but jupiter band were pretty clear. I think i could have gone for a 6 mm or 7 mm Looking forward using the barlow for jupiter and saturn... I will post comparison with original barlow. But as conclusion, i can only recommand to upgrade. As i understood such a mak at f12 does not require that sophiticated and expensive ep (i got that 2 ep and barlow new for about 160€) and are definitively a big step. I cannot comment if going further to more expensive ep would make much more difference to my beginner eyes (apparently reading a number of post, not great difference is to expect for mak between such medium range and higher range ep costing 2 or 3 times more). Experts, don t hesitate to correct me if i am wrong!
  10. A tip for ones using movrec and having problems with fps dropping (i have seen some other reporting such problems). In my case with eos 1100d, disabling the 'automatic lightning optimizer' in the eos solved the problem. Now running at 29-30fps (while before, starting at 24-28 fps and after 20 or 30 sec it was dropping down to.... 1.9fps. I don t know if this feature is available on other eos. Now i can start serious planetary!
  11. Indeed. And with the barlow extension, the torque is even higher. With my canoneos 1100d, it is fine, even withe balow but i guess some 50or 100 grs more, it won t make it. Once using the diagonal + barlow, it could not manage to hold, but it was -12C and i think it makes it ever more sensitive at such low temp.
  12. Hii I have exactly the same telescope and i have been facing the same issue: yes this a focus issue as when you change from ep to camera, you need to change a lot the focus to get it apparent. Even more with a barlow. Her is the way i proceed: 1) get it in the middle with 10mm ep. Make sure that the tescope follows well jupiter (when adjusting finish with up and right arrows, or down/left, not opposites). Change to camera (i have a canon eos 1100d with liveview) at prime focus (not through the diagonal) I use movrec to see live (not sure it support nikon) on my laptop and i set very high iso/long time and then you shall see the wide compltely unfocused jupiter (if low iso, you may simply not see it at all as too much unfocused. Focus. Adjust to get jupiter right in the middle. Then add the barlow. Keep highest iso (again if low iso you may not see it at all). Ajust focus. Then decrease the iso to get the color and details and further adjust focus I am also in start up phase and you can find my attempts in my gallery (the best on jupiter is my 3 rd attempt, need to work the focus and camera setting and the avi treatment in registrax, but i am progressing. As mentioned above, a webcam is most likely better suited. Hope you will managed
  13. And now a 3rd one, some progress!
  14. And now 2sd one, again M42. This time 18*20 sec. No darks
  15. Hi I run skymax 102 synscan goto AZ down to -14C with AA batteries. No problems for about 1-1,5 hr. Even with the weight of my canon EOS at prime focus, it was still moving around, apart after 1 hr, the AA batteries started to be too weak and with the camera weight, cannot move (already old AA batteries, maybe used 3-4 hours in temperature range of -2 to -12C).
  16. Just fresh out from DSS and little gimp levels My first DSO´s, orion and pleiades tonight (-14 degrees, so not that many shots ;-)). I am very impressed, thinking about my little gear (MAK 102, on a AZ goto mount!) and not much subs, also started with Jpeg files, not raw (as being 1st shots, I wanted to keep it simple, but next time no hesitation!!) and finally almost full moon not far away. EOS 1100d at Prime focus, no reducer, no filters etc... 6 subs 15 sec at ISO3200 +6 darks 11 subs, 10 sec at ISO3200 + 6 darks
  17. Erquy


    You mentioned bridge camera, I don´t know if T rings can be used on a bridge.
  18. Erquy


    Hi The skymax has the T tread at his rear to received directly T ring mounted on DSLR camera. So you only need the T ring for your DSLR and no need of a T adapter. Nevertheless, I have a T adapter in order to use a *2 barlow [the other jupiter picture in the gallery -not cropped- is using this set up in order to get a better magnification [also using avi capture with Movrec to get *5). see section 6: http://www.astro.shoregalaxy.com/dslr_astro.htm Note it exist some barlow which have also the T thread on it, so works also as T adapter + 2*barlow. Above picture is without barlow/without capture in Movrec [so no *5), a single camera shot, so rather small and it was cropped also quite a lot, The set up looks like that: The moon pictures in my gallery are using this set up: no barlwo/no *5 in movrec capture and pictures are not cropped, the moon fits perfectly in the FOV of the DSLR at prime focus. So I would recommand you, in case of Jupiter for example to have T adpater + barlow at prime focus. Anyhow, you will see most of other people recommand webcams for planets on top of EP. [i use the video with the DSLR, and works good enough for me/satisfies me, so I don´t really see a need for webcam today).
  19. thanks all for comments! Note that I got my 3rd one (2sd one with telescope) posted and 4th one, in daylight (2.30 pm), also with a closer focus on details I am happy with my progress as only started begining of the month (not only imaging, but got 1st telescope only now)! I think I will start working out some mosaic of the moon for more resolution and also some more work on Jupiter (just started, first pictures in my gallery)
  20. Hi! When adjsting parameters, this is done only on a part of the picture, so you see the difference. Click on 'Do all' , then it will go through all adjustments on the entire picture from original stacked picture. You cadjust the size of the 'sample ' window i think (somewhere in settings)
  21. Taken 2.30 pm today Canon EOS 1100d in prime focus on Skymax102. Capture in Movrec. approx 800 frames. with 5* zoom, approx 400 frames
  22. Erquy

    1st moon in daylight

    From the album: first images skymax 102 + DSLR

    20th Jan. approx 1000 frames stack in registrax. EOS 1100D at prime focus. 2.30 pm
  23. Hi and now my second one. Taken with EOS1100D, 2* barlow, Skymax 102, capture in Movrec *5 and stacked in registrax. Just begining of the night (around 5.30 pm), not that many stars I am quite happy for this 2sd shot!
  24. Hi, just wanted to share, how I managed my 1st successful alignement with my skymax 102 AZ goto: (I failed the 1st trial, as my finderscope was not aligned with the telescope, meaning I picked up the wrong starts -so make sure this is aligned -work it out in daylight on terrestrial!) The tip is in case you have an ipad and to use skygowatcher app and 2 stars alignment: It was cloudy and could not see many stars. nevertheless, I pointed towards Betelgieuse as 1st star that I could see. Then I could not see much other options, but I choose Mirpak ask to move towards it, but could not see it naked eye. Then i took the ipad/skygowatcher and put it perpendicular to the telescope and adjusted the scope with the ipad skygowatcher towards mirpak, and then checking in the EP I could distinguish it through the EP slightly. Then.... I asked to go to Pleiades where it was clear and surprise.... right in the middle!! Also move to Jupiter and perfect alignment! So it helped out for me as beginner and usefull also if weather is not that great and you can´t see much!
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