Jules Tohpipi

Yes exactly. Nobody is trying to change anyone's opinions or behaviours. There's no referendum vote next week deciding whether to ban visual or AP astronomy. It's just people explaining on both sides what they prefer to do and why they enjoy doing it. Inevitably imaging will make some inroads as it gets cheaper and more accessible. But it shouldn't be mistaken as a threat to our hobby.

Personally, I think EAA sits closer in spirit to visual astronomy than it does AP. Sure, the EAA images do come from a screen. Yet viewed in real time, while outside, from my own telescope. The images are far less polished than AP because of the real-time viewing and stacking. In my mind at least, out under the stars., it gives a passable impression of what I’d see looking through a 20 inch dob. I’m still new to EAA and finding it’s supplementing my long-term visual observations a treat. Thrilling even. Plus it takes only a moment to pop an eyepiece straight back into the diagonal.

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Great, good luck with it all! I think it will be perfect for your intended uses and the EAA will make your eyes pop! For EAA come join us in the two main EEVA (aka EAA) sub forums here. Which have been quiet recently but only due to the long spell of continuous clouds.

There's three main parts to this. [Bear in mind all the below is middle rung stuff. It adds complexity. You can have months or forever of joy with both visual and EAA without touching any of the below. Meaning running in alt-az mode only]. 1. Updating AZ-GTi firmware The AZ-GTi ships enabled for alt-az mode only. To run in EQ mode you need to update its firmware using a computer. This is a one-time-only action. Firstly download the Sky-Watcher software that runs and manages the whole firmware update process on your computer. Secondly download the EQ firmware file. Both files are found at the link below. Open the first file on the computer and follow the brief on-screen instructions - then it will beam the EQ firmware file from the computer over Wi-Fi to your AZ-GTi. Choose the correct files at the link carefully! The first file (which runs the process) is called 'Windows Program : Motor Controller Firmware Loader, Wi-Fi' and the firmware file is called 'Firmware : AZGTi Mount, Right Arm, AZ/EQ Dual Mode.' http://skywatcher.com/download/software/motor-control-firmware/ 2. Extra hardware required for EQ mode General purpose here is to convert the AZ-GTi and its bundled tripod to physically behave and move like an EQ mount. Obviously not needed when doing a quicker alt-az session set-up. a) You'll need an EQ wedge to put on top the tripod (or its extension pillar) and under the AZ-GTi. One example of such a thing being: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-star-adventurer/skywatcher-star-adventurer-equatorial-wedge-white.html b) A threaded counterweight bar (to hold the counterweight). The AZ-GTi already has a threaded socket to screw a bar into. c) A counterweigth for the bar. There are many buying options for b) and c) items. Some DIY a bar and weight. Or there's this to buy as a unit (though needs a simple M8 to M12 adapter according to one review at the bottom of the page). https://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-star-adventurer/skywatcher-star-adventurer-counterweight-kit.html 3. SynScan Pro app for phone or tablet Install this on your phone or tablet to control the AZ-GTi. It has a button for toggling between AZ and EQ modes.

Lol. No you are heading exactly in the right direction - based upon your helpful insights into what you want to achieve i.e. your brief. Remember I'm on the very bottom rung of the EAA ladder having been visual only for donkeys. And cameras are a very deep rabbit hole indeed. My bliss might be caused by ignorance. I was researching for months before buying a camera. The personal conclusion I came to was that, for planetary imaging, the ASI224MC has long been the best game in town at a sensible beginner's pricing. But if DSOs are the priority then probably overall better to go up to the 585MC. The main relevant differences being the wider field of view and absence of amp glow on the more expensive 585. Neither of these two factors is a concern when imaging the solar system. Generally you want higher magnification/narrower FOV for planets (which the 224 has) and the amp glow (cloudy lightening of the frame around its outer edges) is easily cropped out in any simple image editing program where the planet only is the subject. I went for the 585 because for EAA I'm only interested in DSOs. So, on the face of it, the camera looks an easy choice given your described intended usage and scenario. It comes supplied with a separate 1.25" nose piece that allows you to drop it in the diagonal same as an eyepiece. Which is a great way to kick things off initially without encountering potential other issues e.g. camera can't achieve focus if the diagonal is not used. Good timing also. FLO has 10% off all the ZWO cameras at the moment. Which is a genuine reduction on the long-term normal selling price. So console yourself with the thought 'It would be a crime not to get one' 🤣

I think the other big question is light pollution in the area. Otherwise star hopping with any manual scope without aid will be hopeless e.g. GOTO or Celestron Starsense will be required. Which then prompts questions about comfort/familiarity with using and learning new technology. Because some people don’t interact with technology that much in their jobs or daily lives. In that sense I see the Celestron phone system being an enormous step forward for younger beginners.

There is frequently a lack of awareness on both sides when asking for or giving advice. Which Jeremy Clarkson (bless) summarised beautifully in this article about being asked all the time “Which car should I buy?” https://www.thesun.co.uk/motors/2929446/jeremy-clarkson-reveals-the-weird-questions-he-asks-people-when-they-want-car-buying-advice/amp/ Back to astronomy. Those asking often don’t share (or know) any kind of info as to what practicalities might be important to them. And the advice giver doesn’t think to ask - just names a telescope anyway.

Yes absolutely. And there's different levels you can start/go up the EAA or full AP ladder. Of which I'm currently on the very bottom rung (having been pure visual for decades until this year). I'll keep this brief and in general overview. Bottom rung is using the AZ-GTi as supplied in alt-az mode. I remove the eyepiece from the diagonal and put my camera in same diagonal (ZWO ASI585MC). USB cable from the camera to a laptop. Use either the supplied ZWO software or third-party SharpCap software to either 'Live View' the camera or 'Live Stack' the images there and then in real time on the screen to observe planets, DSOs (at a stretch with the mak) etc. All very easy and rewarding with a relatively simple learning curve. This relies on short exposure times - approx 10 seconds each and when live-stacking the software auto-corrects for any field rotation of alt-az mode. I see more detail and brightness in DSOs than I ever saw in my 10" dob with this technique (for EAA I use a cheap 4" refractor for DSOs). Middle rung: add counter weight and counter weight bar and eq wedge to AZ-GTi. Then run mount in eq mode. Obviously permits longer exposure photography, be that for EAA or a stab at serious astrophotography Top rung: as above but include guiding and integrate plate-solving and a host of other extra expert stuff (which I don't fully understand) be that with a computer using SharpCap or a dedicated astro box like the ASIair range. The imaging results of which - from other forum members - I would not have believed possible at amateur level even just 10 years ago. By the way, I'm not necessarily trying to dissuade you from going the fully manual route with an EQ3 or 5 or the like. I enjoyed that kind of thing with dobs for years. But rather the AZ-GTi is a serious alternative to be putting on the shortlist if you want quick/light/non-bulky combined with reasonable price, tracking and GOTO, and upgradeable to EQ. If you see what I mean.

For visual, once it’s focussed and tracking, then I’ve found it to be stable. Stable enough even for decent EAA in alt-az mode doing short-exposure live stacks. The AZ-GTi has a large community following. See its enormous thread in the Mounts section here. However, personally, I’ve found the bundled tripod not ideal for when trying to fine focus the mak. The focusing action requires more energy input on maks than other scope types and it can take a few seconds for the bundled tripod to settle down after turning the focuser. Other people seem less perturbed by this than me. Some get astonishing images with this apparatus that I could only dream of. I yielded and bought the Sky-Watcher stainless steel tripod (3/8” version) which makes things rock solid with the AZ-GTi. When I’m feeling lazy, I use the lighter bundled tripod and a bahtinov mask to nail focus which eases the pain somewhat. Oh dear, that poor person in the review! As you’ll know from your own previous experience, some basic knowledge and input/effort is required 😂 FYI, that particular mount reviewed does not have the Freedom Find feature (all pointing must be done with the cursor buttons in the phone app). Plus the app communicates your location co-ordinates automatically to the AZ-GTi.

A big plus point of the AZ-GTi are its ‘Freedom Find’ and ‘Point and Track’ features. In overview, Freedom Find allows you to push your telescope in the traditional manual way to find your object e.g. Jupiter. Once manually centred in your eyepiece, then quickly tighten the two thumb screws (clutches) and hit ‘Point and Track’ in the phone app. Now the mount is auto tracking Jupiter. It avoids any requirement to perform an alignment set-up or rely on a GOTO command. Repeat the above if hopping to another object. The above works in Alt-az mode so no need to do a polar align even. Really helps speed up and simplify the auto tracking process. Of course, it can be used as a full GOTO mount also - which will require alignment set-up.

Yes, this is a good starting point . Small, portable, stores away neat and can see plenty of objects easily rather than being lost. Can drive it from a mobile phone - which will engage a teenager, too It's easy to update this for equatorial/astrophotography use with the firmware update on the Sky-Watcher website for EQ mode. Add a wedge, threaded bar and counterweight and good to go with a camera and a fast refractor on the AZ-GTi.

After decades of being visual only I've recently joined the ranks of EAA (aka EEVA) enthusiasts. In summary, it's a great supplement for visual astronomers who don't have the time, budget, or inclination for full-on astrophotography. I'm keeping the EAA quick and simple but am already astonished with the results. How simple? I find the targets same way as visual using my alt-az goto, remove the eyepiece, and drop my ZWO ASI585MC camera (with supplied 1.25 inch nose-piece attached) into the diagonal. The USB lead from the camera goes into my laptop where I watch the image live on the screen. Now I see fainter objects in real time better than I've ever seen them through the dob. The only additional cost has been the camera. Where the magic happens is in the software running on the laptop. I prefer to use SharpCap which is free (or £12/year for the more techie Pro licence) or alternatively you could use the software included with the ZWO camera. The Live View button is good for bright objects. For DSOs you hit the Live Stack button. This prompts the camera to take an ongoing burst of short exposures (e.g. five seconds each) which are stacked automatically in front of your eyes to tease out far more detail and brightness from your faint fuzzy. That live stacking process also corrects for field rotation. This is where EAA differs to astrophotography - it's based on much shorter exposures which the software builds automatically to view in real time and can be used with alt-az mounts. There's other benefits also, but I don't want to waffle too much. Those interested can find out more in the EEVA (aka EEA) forums here at SGL! Is it any less of a kick because the photons come from a screen rather than through through some glass? Absolutely not. It's still using my telescope and being viewed live right now. Plus I can put an eyepiece back in the diagonal whenever I want

To echo some of the comments made already. For your particular brief then the following are generally self-recommending. 1. If it must be easily portable, light-weight, or if compact storage is a must - Get the Sky-Watcher Skymax 127 on the Sky-Watcher AZ-GTi goto mount 2. If big is OK and you're short on time and want to find objects easily without too much of a set-up process and can get by without tracking - Get the Celestron StarSense Explorer 8" Dobsonian. The mobile phone StarSense system may feel like a gimmick but everyone is saying it works incredibly well 3. If big and heavy is OK and you must have tracking and can tolerate a longer set-up process (which can be a bit hit or miss) - Get the Sky-Watcher Skyliner 200P FlexTube GOTO You're already heading in the the right direction. It just comes down to what is, and what is not, acceptable for your own personal needs. I post in the above style on the basis you’ve already done a lot of research and are now asking for opinions

It’s a lot more light in the 8 inch but at much higher magnification (because the focal length of the 8 inch is longer). In simple loose terms, the extra magnification of the 8 inch (due to its longer focal length) reduces the intensity of the light. But it has a bigger mirror to compensate. End result is Jupiter (say) will look bigger in the 8 inch and have better resolution, but still maintain the same brightness as the much smaller (less magnified) image of Jupiter in the 5 inch. The above is the case if both scopes are F5 as you say.

I’m at the beginning of my astrophotography (EAA) adventure. Lots of people getting great DSO images with the 585 - not least of which Chris at FLO on his YouTube channel. I was torn between the 224 and 585. Went with the 585 as I like the rectangular shape also and the zero amp glow. The FOV is wider on the 585 (better for DSO) but to partially compensate on planets it’s got more pixels than the 224.

Another thumbs up for an 8 inch dob. I used to have one and could see bands on Jupiter easily, the Great Red Spot, moons passing across the disc and shadows of the moons passing across Jupiter. In fact Jupiter is my favourite target. If the dob is too big to store then the SW Mak 127 is also a good shout. For any given eyepiece it will show near as dammit the same magnification as the 8 inch dob (a bit higher actually), albeit with mildly less resolution due to the smaller aperture (but still good). If I were buying a dob again, would almost definitely go for the Celestron Starsense version this time. Because nearly all the user reports heap praise on the StarSense system for locating objects easily. Otherwise finding fainter targets manually under heavily light-polluted skies can be nigh on impossible. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/celestron-starsense-explorer-series/celestron-starsense-explorer-8-dobsonian.html

I don't do particularly long or frequent sessions. But I find getting a nap in after work, between 6:30pm and 8:30pm, that somewhat takes the edge off a late finish. Otherwise I can really suffer. Hence why it's usually Friday and Saturday nights for me if the weather is playing good.

I have the SW ST102 and 127 Mak on an AZ-GTi. So same kind of set-up as yours but with a bit more aperture. How that actually compares through the eyepiece to yours I don't know. From direct experience, I can say two things make a big difference compared the above - that are within the £500 budget. 1. A manual 8" dob - lots more light and better resolution for visual or 2. Drop a ZWO ASI585MC camera directly into your diagonal (exactly the same as dropping an eyepiece in) and connect it via USB to a laptop. The free SharpCap software will show the live image on the screen and build a live stack of, say, 5 second exposures. To clarify, my first ever go at trying this, I had the below live-view stack of M13 on my screen in under three minutes using my ST102 on the AZ-GTi in Alt-Az mode. It represents the absolute least of what's possible. EEVA is very suited to visual astronomers because it's a technique that gets results quickly (image develops in front of your eyes in a few minutes rather than hours) yet shows far more than you would ever see even through an 8" dob. Check out the EEVA forums here if curious.

Hi folks, I've got a really really simple question about the AZ-GTi! Despite having owned one for a while now, I've never yet used the Freedom Find feature. Question is, when already aligned successfully on an object (say Jupiter), and the mount is now tracking that object, can I just loosen off the clutches and push the mount to a different location and re-tighten the clutches? I suppose the other way of asking my question: is it OK to loosen and re-tighten the clutches when the gears are in motion? Or will it cause gear grinding? Just want to double-check before I potentially break anything! Googling has given no concrete answer (which I imply to mean 'No problem to do that') and the manual says OK to do at anytime.

I dropped the Met Office in favour of Meteoblue a long time ago. Not only do they get it right more often (in my opinion) but they present a lot of info in a very concise and easy to digest format.

Just to add, the zoom eyepieces are generally convenient and also good for determining what your own personal favoured magnification levels are. However, they tend to have noticeably narrower fields of view compared regular eyepieces. Which is not a plus point for a Mak. Nor quite 100% the quality - albeit still good. Horses for courses, but my Baader one stays in the box now having served a useful initial phase.

Haha!! Thank you. It was tucked in the corner when I opened the case so gave it pride of place for the photo! FYI, for the focussing, there’s a person selling this on eBay - albeit not as much fun as designing your own. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185060378222?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=amM_ReOxR3i&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=N2wZ271JRqi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

A clothes peg. That Mak can be somewhat frustrating when making fine adjustments on the focus wheel. Putting a clothes peg on it increases its circumference (to paint a picture) and so allows for finer focussing. Plus its inputs are less likely to make the tripod wobble for a few seconds (if using the bundled black somewhat light-weight tripod). Also the ADM saddle is a popular improvement. While not 100% a necessity, this saddle clamps the dovetail on the Mak much better that the single screw. I say 'better' but the original saddle is possibly perfectly adequate. However, the ADM upgrade certainly gives a perception of being much more secure. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adm-replacement-saddles/adm-dual-dovetail-adaptor-for-az-gti.html As for a case, I went with the MAX465H220 with the Pick and Pluck foam interior option added prior to check out. My photos show the Mak 127 inside along with the AZ-GTi and the Sky-Watcher tripod extension tube (standing vertically). I have removed the top of the extension tube (as it doesn’t fit vertically) and fitted it to the base of the AZ-GTi. The diagonal is kept in a separate eyepiece box. This case is extremely robust and well built and heavy. Packed as shown the total weight is 10.5 kg. https://www.trifibre.co.uk/product/max465h220/ and the roller version https://www.trifibre.co.uk/product/max465h220tr-blk/

There's definitely pros and cons to your two options and you seem already to be on top of those. Certainly, in principle, the Starsense system is the easier to use and get up and running quickly. The Goto systems require an alignment process to be performed and even then won't necessarily be 100% accurate. That's because the Goto systems - in the sense you intend to use them - are not actually aware of whether they are pointing in the right direction. Whereas the Starsense system is aware because the camera analyses the sky to confirm at the destination. That's a big plus point and can save much faffing about if your Goto is not playing ball for any reason. As for a Goto system, such as the Sky-Watcher 127 Mak on an AZ-GTi, that requires somewhat more user input to get working - but will be no great challenge to anyone willing to tackle a fairly easy learning curve and willing to do some background research off the net - if necessary. The immediate reward is tracking to allow undisturbed viewing at the eyepiece. But a whole load of future options will present themselves also. For example, using other programs/apps to take control of the telescope. Adding a camera for getting into EAA (see the EEVA forum here) for immediate great views of the dimmer objects and taking some basic photos. Or adding a cheaper refractor further down the line, such as the Sky-Watcher Star Travel 102 for wider views as it can also be used on the AZ-GTi. That mount can even be easily upgraded (adding more components) for more serious astrophotography in equatorial mode. So to the million dollar question - which would I recommend to my friends? The answer is totally dependent of what I know about my friends! For some the Goto system would be a complete no-no because they have neither the patience, motivation or aptitude for that. And nudging to track is no great inconvenience or challenge either. The Starsense would be the absolute perfect option for them or anyone who is time poor. I'd recommend the Goto for the more ambitious and those who don't mind learning some basics about the equipment - not that any of this requires master-class or even medium knowledge. So many times the question is asked at the beginning of this journey 'What's the best telescope?' In reality the answer is, as you seem to 100% understand already, is 'The telescope that is best suited to you.'