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Jules Tohpipi

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About Jules Tohpipi

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  1. Yes, they are all very good points and why I'll not be giving up just yet. I'll give them a go when time allows (tricky) and taking a vvvvery deep breath....
  2. I had a long session with the 200p and 250px alongside each other on Tuesday night. The results will require a long post - to clearly explain the findings with relevant background information - which unfortunately I don't have time to post tonight. Hopefully tomorrow. The top-line conclusion is that I am deeply disappointed with the coma this scope is producing. It is such a significant backwards step compared with my 200p. Frankly speaking, regardless of price, I'd take the 200p over the 250px because the negative points of this faster scope heavily outweigh the positive points. When I wr
  3. For me it is a thumbs down for the Zoom mkIII in the 250px. Previously using one in a 200p, I found the FOV quite narrow at the wide end. More significantly, I found the view to get quite mushy away from the middle which resulted in lots of Dob nudging. My MaxVisions were a revelation in comparison. Wider, clearer views and good to the edge with better ER. Sticking the zoom in my recently acquired 250px exaggerated the problems further. In fact, as wolfpaw is finding, the MVs are less than perfect in the 250px. On a positive note, my WO 6mm is working well in the 250px giving detailed hi
  4. Yes, will do. There's a very small window of opportunity before the 200p is delivered to its new home. So I'm praying for clear skies. Glad you found the post useful - as I did yours.
  5. I've just come across this thread and wolfpaw's experiences have mirrored my own recently. I'm currently transitioning between scopes. I started with a Skyliner 200p during which time I bought the MaxVision 16mm and 24mm. The 24mm was exceptional; clear to the edge, comfortable, etc. The 16mm was a pig due to very tight ER. Recently bought a 250px FlexTube. Last night I had both scopes out on the patio alongside each other... The 16mm MV looks so much better in the 200p than the 250px. Stars are more pinpoint for longer in the 200p. Even when dead-centre in both scopes, details in Jupite
  6. If you have below-par orientation skills, enough LP, and are time poor, then a manual DOB can be a very frustrating experience. A Telrad certainly helps but didn't help enough for my scenario. In the end I swallowed my pride and bought a Goto DOB. No, it's not a magic wand. However, used in the right way, dial in some PAE off stars in the nearby area, and it will get you there. I've seen a greater variety of objects in one week than the previous 12 months. Conversely....
  7. There was opportunity to try the SW 200p Dob last night with the Parallizer. The overview is that I was able to achieve focus with all EPs when putting the Parallizer directly into the draw tube, but *only* if I did not insert the Parallizer fully. So I think it's a very good result that focus could be achieved in this configuration and the views were excellent. Attempt 1 Inserted Parallizer into draw tube all the way to its collar. At this point the Parallizer provides zero extension because the inside of its collar is chamfered i.e. like a funnel. I could not achieve focus with any of my
  8. Completely... and... utterly... gutted... Glad that some got the opportunity though.
  9. For anyone who’s interested, here’s my interpretation of how the Howie Glatter Parallizer works. It’s not an explanation of the whole principle behind the Parallizer, just a part explanation of how it actually keeps things parallel. (My profuse apologies to all concerned if I’ve got any of this wrong). Background I’d read some explanations online, and watched the video on HG’s website, but personally just wasn’t able to understand the descriptions of how it worked and kept things parallel. So, now that I’ve got one, I think I understand. I hope the diagram I’ve created below helps shed som
  10. Some interesting things I thought I’d share from my recent experiences... (Albeit sorry for the long posts, if anyone is still reading). Given how the Howie Glatter Parallizer is intended to work, I was worried that its effects would be spoiled by the need to insert the 2” EP holder first. Totally by accident, I discovered the answer to that question. Well, partially... there’s a story. As mentioned earlier, I collimated the scope at the weekend with the 2” EP holder, Parallizer and Cheshire in place. Scope collimated, I then removed everything. Immediately, I put everything back into pl
  11. A quick update. Had the 250px DOB out for a brief observing session tonight. Was able to achieve focus with all my EPs. That's the 6mm WO, 16 & 24mm MaxVisions. Just to recall the set-up: this scope has the SW dual-speed focuser fitted. I inserted the 2" EP holder into the draw tube, then the Parallizer (all the way in to the collar), and then my 1.25" EPs. (The Parallizer won't fit direct into the draw tube on this focuser). Even with the dreadful seeing tonight, the results were very promising. I had carefully collimated the scope at the weekend with the Parallizer in place. Learn
  12. Possibly, but then the EPs might achieve focus pushed all the way in, or pushed anywhere in so long as in the range from 10%-70%. Just hoping for a break in the clouds to have a play.
  13. Well, it was a beautiful day here. That is until 5pm when I watched the clouds roll in. So I've been having a play with the Parallizer indoors instead. Now, I temporarily have two telescopes in the house - for which the results have been rather different. For reference, the diameter of the Parallizer is a hair's breadth under 2" according to my Vernier Caliper. Skywatcher Skyliner 250px FlexTube Dob This particular telescope has the Skywatcher Dual-Speed Crayford Focuser fitted (non low-profile version). The Parallizer will not fit in the draw tube because the diameter of the Parallizer is
  14. Ha, ha! That's exactly what I thought! But I'm finding it rolls off the tongue in quite a cool kind of way now. Lol. And 'Parallizer' has a clever double-meaning. Ooo, and it sounds like something from Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy. He seems to be an interesting guy and regularly pops up on forums to advise and clarify things about his products. So, count me in for for giving some of his stuff a try! Yes, this is one of several things I'm still in the dark about. If I'm understanding the principle correctly, then it should work better if inserted directly into the draw tube - rather
  15. Thanks for the heads up. Earlier today I ordered a Howie Glatter Parallizer from FLO who seem confident that I won't encounter any focusing problems or need extension tubes on the 250px. I mainly ordered it because of the outstanding praise from users on the other side of the pond. The Parallelizer should arrive early next week, so I'll report back with the results for the benefit of the knowledge pool.
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