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orly_andico

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Everything posted by orly_andico

  1. Glueing will not be a long term solution. I tried this on a Celestron tripod. Tightening the bolt puts pressure on the glue (even epoxy) and it eventually loses its grip on the plastic. A solution is to bend a furniture mending plate (like this one - http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardware-75-5851-Mending-Plates/dp/B00004Z0U8)of sufficient length - or you can use an aluminium bar - into a box shape like the plastic clamp. Then drill/tap a hole in the box shaped metal for the tightening screw. Basically you are fabricating a new clamp out of metal.
  2. I think the reason there are a lot of reports of Paramount problems is because they have the largest installed base of remote robotic observatories. I've been using GRAS for years and recently there has been a spate of issues in Siding Springs. However, that doesn't change the fact that the majority of small robotic observatories in academe are using Paramounts.
  3. i used to have one and i used to guide it.. RMS guiding performance is quite similar to large China mounts surprisingly. of course the payload is much less. http://orlygoingthirty.blogspot.sg/2014/07/sky-watcher-star-adventurer-portable-eq.html RMS guiding around 2" of course no guiding in DEC. I don't have the Star Adventurer anymore as I got a (much heavier - 7kg vs 1kg for the EQ head) Tak EM11. I can still carry the EM11 + tripod out in one trip so portable enough for me.
  4. For remote, the Bisque Paramounts are the gold standard. They have been around forever, the software is old, well-tested at hundreds or thousands of locations, and is widely used by professionals. I don't think you can get any Bisque mount for 6000 EUR though. The smallest and newest (the Paramount MyT) is 6000 USD and might be at the limit with a 12" SCT. With duties etc. you will be over 6000 EUR. I would suggest a used Paramount ME (the old one) which has a 70kg payload. You might just find one. Otherwise, look at the 10Micron mounts. I am not sure a GM1000 would suffice, you might need to go with the GM2000. Either will be well over 6000 EUR unfortunately. The 10Microns have absolute encoders and are technically superior to the Bisque mounts, but the Bisques have worked perfectly all over the world for decades without encoders.
  5. I did exactly the same thing using a 5V output 10000 mAh power bank (a non-cheap one, cost $80). It wasn't powerful enough to drive my EM11 Temma2 Jr. The mount tracked, but whenever it attempted to GoTo, it would die. The USB output is only rated for 2.1A, and after stepping this up to 12V, there simply isn't enough current.
  6. Injury I believe is either a Sirui or Benro rebrand. I used a 15 kg rated carbon Sirui (the T2204X) and it was not as stable as the cheaper but far heavier aluminum Gitzo. The Sirui had a center column, I'm sure that contributed to the instability. Net net, go for the Berlebach Report. Ask for a flat top and 3/8" mounting stud. It's reasonably priced, only a bit heavier than the Gitzo 5532 which costs 3x as much. An acquaintance uses the Berlebach Report with a Half Hitch FTX and Mewlon 210 and reports it's stable to 400x.
  7. get the EQ3. The Star Adventurer is the best 1kg mount you can get, but it doesn't have goto or setting circles... so it's pretty hard to find anything in the sky.
  8. I used an old aluminium Gitzo 3-series. The flat Systematics plate made it very stable. You could also try a Berlebach Report, they are rather inexpensive. I use one on my EM-11 and it carries 10kg securely.
  9. 2" unguided requires very large worm wheels. My Mach1 is about 2.8" unguided before PEC. The 28" figure for the Star Adventurer is very good considering its price and provenance. My old CGEM was about 32" so this tiny mount is actually marginally more accurate than my particular CGEM.
  10. Note that the 2" RMS is guided. The periodic error is around 28" p-p unguided.
  11. about 8 minutes, or a bit less than one worm period. however i don't see why this level of guiding cannot be maintained indefinitely, since the periodic error is quite regular.. note that i no longer have the Star Adventurer. I bought it for a lightweight portable mount, but it's too small for my 80mm refractor, so I'm using an EM11 now. Much much heavier to be sure, but still in the realm of airline transportable. And with GoTo.
  12. Hi Raymond, what's the diameter of the carbon tubes? Is the dowel an off-the-shelf size or did you need to turn it down on a lathe (or similar) so that it would fit in the carbon tube? Also the nut on the dowel.. is it an actual nut that you glued in there or is it some form of threaded insert? I'm thinking of making a carbon truss newt with a rotating upper cage and I've been advised that I need for my trusses to be a Stewart platform for centering the upper cage so that collimation is not lost when I rotate the cage.
  13. The Aeroquest worm is only $105. That's not really overkill. My suggestion would be to buy an Aeroquest worm and put it on your RA. Then transfer the old RA worm to the DEC and throw away the bad DEC worm. In my experience, the Aeroquest worm on RA had about 1/2 the periodic error of the stock worm (16" p-p versus about 30" p-p) so in my opinion well worth the $105.
  14. Hi Raymond, How did you attach the L brackets to the ends of the carbon tube? I assume the carbon tubes are off the shelf items?
  15. Actually I would disagree... I have used two camera lenses with my Star Adventurer.. a Canon 180mm macro (14 elements!) and a 70-200 f2.8 non-IS (18 elements) Neither of these lenses, wide-open, could match the performance of my lowly Stellarvue SV80ED with a Televue TRF2008. The telescope simply had sharper, tighter stars and less CA. Of course, the camera lenses are faster (f3.5 and f2.8, versus f5.6 for the telescope + reducer combo).
  16. I am seriously thinking of buying the new Atik 414EXM. The high QE and relatively lower price is very attractive for narrowband. Sure I'd like a bigger sensor, but my budget won't let me. I used to have a QHY8, because the dew point here in Singapore is 1-2 degrees below ambient, I had to seal the camera inside a large bag filled with silica gel. By doing this scrupulously, I could eliminate frost on the sensor. My current camera is an ST8300M (the non-STF). This camera suffers from a very poor design in that it does not have a dessicant plug like the previous ST2000 and later STF8300 have. Hence after I started seeing frost/moisture on the sensor, I have to dis-assemble the camera and put in new dessicant. And not any dessicant will do, it has to be molecular sieve (I had to buy two cans from Sigma Aldrich). My question is around moisture control. How do these Atik bodies handle it?
  17. The star adventurer is already shaky/marginal with the Lomo 80mm, which weighs about 4kg (5kg with camera). It won't balance with the supplied weight, I had to add an extra weight from an old EQ1. The Lomo 80mm is about 16" long. So compare that to the 500/4 which is probably longer.
  18. I have managed 1 minute at 384mm (Lomo 80/480 with Televue TRF2008). About 30% reject ratio.
  19. I use a used Gitzo G1340 Mk 2. 20lb rating. Roughly equivalent to a current GT 3-series. Damps vibration better than the heavier aluminium tripod from my Vixen Polaris, weighs 6.5 lb. A modern Gitzo carbon tripod would be half the weight.
  20. Davey, can you post a detailed photo of the L bracket where you modified it so that the illuminator would fit? I want to do the same procedure...
  21. I bought a Sirui R2004 tripod for the Star Adventurer. This tripod is alleged to carry 15 kg or 33 lb. Note my use of the word "alleged." With an 80mm APM Lomo triplet, damping time at 120X is 8 seconds! I swapped the Vixen Polaris tripod, and damping time went down to 4 seconds. So - the Star Adventurer is too puny to carry the APM Lomo triplet, and the Sirui tripod makes things worse. http://orlygoingthirty.blogspot.sg/2014/09/sirui-r2004-tripod-for-astronomy.html
  22. e.g. http://www.cloudynights.com/classifieds/item/35331-cg5-asgt-with-tripod-and-pier-extention/ $300.
  23. Can't figure out how to edit.. note you'll also have to buy tube rings and a dovetail bar. That's another $100.
  24. It's more like a G11 than a CGE, really. It's a Celestron-rebadged G11 and most/all the G11 parts will fit. These sell for around $1000 in the US. Sometimss even less. But does this one come with that heavy tripod? If it has working encoders and a DSC computer, I guess one could live with the lack of GoTo.
  25. You can get a used CG5 GT off astromart or the CN classifieds below $500. Better to buy there than on ebay. There's more community vetting. Do note that a newtonian on an EQ mount is a pain. The eyepiece position ends up at odd neck-breaking angles.
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