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About Pscammp

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  1. Hi All, I'm hoping for a little good advice here as i'm in the market fairly soon for a new Camera. I use a Revelation 10 inch newt from 'The Telescope House' with a QHY8L at the moment and although i'm quite happy with my results generally I am looking to upgrade my 8L with one which will allow me to resolve more detail in my images. I assume the resolution will need to increase and pixel size will have to get smaller than 7.8u to get more detail. I would like to stick with an OSC as my time under the stars is somewhat limited and would really have the time or patience for Mono Camera's etc. Has to be Cooled too Has anyone got any suggestions for a camera, I have not got an unlimited budget so the cost will have to be within reason but im prepared to consider most. So.....What Camera and why ?? Many Thanks Paul
  2. Hello all, I'm hoping to get a little help and advice here if anyone can help ! I have a 10" Newtonian which I modified by attaching a CR2 2inch Moonlite Focuser to it. It has the Hi Res stepper motor on it and the Mini V2 controller which is hooked up to my PC via ASCOM and I use Sequence Generator Pro for image capture and auto focusing. My camera is a QHY8L for the sake of full clarity and I have to drag it all outside every time I want to do some imaging. In the medium future (due to a house move) I am planning an Observatory build in my new back garden/yard which will be positioned probably about 60 feet from the house. Everything works great at the moment for a 'Mobile' setup just outside our current conservatory on the patio but when this Observatory build goes ahead in the future I can see a very large problem developing due to the proximity of the Obs. Currently, I use auto focus which is great but if I use SGP's framing and mosaic tool to frame an image and need to rotate the camera I just pop outside the conservatory to manually rotate the camera in the focuser (guessing) based on how much SGP tells me to and in which direction. Sometimes I get it within the allowed tolerance and other times I have to pop out 3 or 4 times to get it right. This is not so much of a problem NOW but imagine having to run 60 feet each time....... Not Good So, somehow I need to come up with a way of having Motor Rotation as well as motor focusing ! ! ! ! I have looked at the Moonlite focusers website but only see a rotator option for refractors and SCT's Is it possible to somehow convert my CR2 to also rotate the camera also on my Newt ?.....Has anyone done this already ? .....Any video's anywhere cos I cant find any ? Any Help would be gratefully appreciated Many Regards Paul
  3. Hello all, Hope someone can help ! Im using the latest version of PHD 2 When you create an equipment profile, is there any way to also set the profile with a 'Camera Exposure Duration' ?? The reason why I ask is I use it with S G Pro, when a sequence starts it fires up PHD 2 and connects the chosen equipment via a selected profile. Once it starts calibration, and, when it begins guiding it seems to default to an exposure time of 1 sec whereas I want it to be 2 sec Is there any way of setting the exposure time when creating a profile ??? Many Thanks Paul
  4. Nebula, It will be multiple items and I will be fusing them separately. It will be: NEQ6 Pro QHY8L 12v 7 way USB 3.0 Hub, Moonlite Focuser controller 150w DC-DC module for Laptop output (future dew heater controller) Looked at Maplin's quick blow glass tube type fuses but even these are rated as 250VAC Probably will go with the following: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251990715396?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT At least using 'standard blade fuses' they are pretty much designed to be used in a 12DC environment and I can get fuse ratings to cover all the above very easily. Not quick blow types but there you go Regards Paul
  5. Hello all, Im in the process of planning a field battery project to power my kit but have come across an issue I'd like some clarification on if anyone can help. Bare in mind that all our kit works on DC power, I have read that you shouldn't use fuses designed for AC in a DC circuit, some im sure will know the obvious reasons for this. So, Google searching I went. Would'nt you know it, I am after some DC fuses suitable for 12 - 19.5v max range either 20mm or 31mm long which are rated for DC between 1A and 6A fast / quick blow and can I find any here in the UK, actually, any type of DC spec fuse......Like hell can I. Can anyone suggest a supplier here in the UK who can supply genuine DC spec fuses of either 20mm or 31mm long (prefer 31mm) ???? Many Thanks for any help Paul
  6. Hello all, I am about to embark on building my own power supply box for my stuff using a 75Ah deep cycle battery. I have a question to ask if you don't mind ref my mount (NEQ6 Pro)...... I'm not 100% sure of the best way to deal with the supply to my mount. I have heard people just put in a fuse, some use DC-DC converters etc So what's the best and safest bet for me here: 1. Just fuse the positive line ? If so, what size fuse should I use ? 2. Use a DC-DC step up converter to get the voltage up a couple of volts and then fuse that ???? If so, can anyone suggest/link me to an appropriate item ? What do you think ?? Regards Paul
  7. Hello all, I'm looking at putting together my own Field battery for my setup but not sure where to start. So Here's my current Kit: NEQ6 Pro Mount Moonlite Focuser with Mini V2 controller QHY8L Camera (usually sits approx. 27 - 29% power at -25 below ambient) Orion Starshoot Autoguider (from the Awesome autoguider package with the Orion ST80) 12V Anker USB3 7 port Hub to connect it all up No Dew straps yet but intend on adding one to the ST80 in the future (any recommendations ?) Main Stumbling Block :- Laptop MSI GP72 2QD-062UK I'd like it to also be able to power my Laptop but the battery pack is built in so I cant see the credentials of it, I know the mains adaptor is rated at 19.5v and 6.15Ah which equals approx. 119W but im sure this is overrated. I contacted MSI and they say they couldn't tell me an approximate W per hour the thing used fully loaded, half loaded and at Idle but suggested a piece of windows software called BatteryMon. On running BatteryMon on my Laptop with PHD2 Simulated guiding, Sequence Generator Pro running and all my kit connected and running a simulated capture, and Stellarium running too, BatteryMon reported battery Voltage at 12v and approximate discharge rate of 1612000 - 1712000 mW with it all running. Interestingly, If you pan around in Stellarium, the mW figure shoots up to approx. 3312000 - 3512000 mW, likewise, when the mount slews via EQMOD EQASCOM the mW figure short up to 3312000 3512000 mW also Primarily, I usually image in the back garden with the laptop inside and plugged into the mains so most of the time I will be looking to just power all the equipment outside but not the laptop, on the other hand, should I go to a star party I'd also like the power so I can run the laptop off of it too foe something like 6 to 8 hours at an absolute maximum. So could anyone help me work out what 'Ah' battery capacity I would need to power all the above (inc Laptop) for a good 8Hrs ????? I have a charger like the following rated for a battery up to 80Ah: http://mccormicktools.co.uk/ctek-mxs-38-smart-battery-charger-7-stage-12v-38a.html?gclid=CJuZxYLb28oCFUKeGwodLZMHyg Could these type of batteries be any good and also be chargeable with the above charger: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAIR-12AH-24-33AH-36AH-40AH-50AH-55-75AH-MOBILITY-SCOOTER-DEEP-CYCLE-BATTERIES-/281375145084?var=&hash=item418343fc7c:m:mjRjz8Z8C0aGnXFS7WoqzmQ Was looking at this but will it be overkill or not enough (19Kg is really heavy and its really big, if smaller was possible that would be MUCH BETTER): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181750043162?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Any help would be gratefully appreciated Many Thanks Paul
  8. Sub Dwarf, Sorry it's so long for my reply in this topic but I forgot about it. When clicking cooler to 'ON' your not actually telling SGP to cool the camera to a particular temp, all the ON does is activate cooling. To cool to you chosen temp you would click the 'Cool Down' button. This then activates the cooling cycle but SGP doesn't whack up the power % higher than required to get to the chosen temp, it begins at 1% and over time ( based on the time you set to complete cooling in ) Slowly brings the power % up in stages to hit your chosen temp in the set time you choose. The problem here is that on initial connection and turning cooler to 'ON' ( "only the first time") I think the driver is setting the power % to 50% instead of 0% leaving SGP will tell ASCOM what to do with it. Once I catch the initial power % ramp up with the 'Warm up' button and the camera's temp stabilizes at about ambient then I can click the Cooler to ON or OFF all day long and it does not try firing the power to 50% it just sits there as im not actually cooling until I click to do so. A response from the Dev's on the SGP forum said ASCOM has full control of the camera's cooler and all SGP does is request ASCOM to make an adjustment, ASCOM decides what to do with that info, they say it's an issue with either the main driver or the ASCOM driver. If you try the QHY8L in their own EZCap software and bring up the temp control box you'll also see that the power is at 50% default, on hitting 'Auto Control' the camera begins aggres- sively cooling way too fast while the software is slowly trying to bring the power down. Again, once temp has stabilized power to zero and camera is back at ambient it will work normally as SGP does. If when opening the temp control box, select 'Manual' and slide the power slider all the way to zero and then hit 'Auto Control' then cooling begins from zero and works fine. I have managed to get a message on the QHY forum to challenge this issue as 'QUi' on there says the 50% power start up setting is set in the driver. I think it should default to Zero % to remove the risk of thermal shock as my camera is going from +20c to -5c in about 50 secs if I let it or forget to react. surely risks thermal shock. If I get any joy i'll post it here Regards Paul
  9. Hello all, Hope someone can help ! I have the Orion awesome autoguider and I noticed an issue with the camera the other day, the little glass shield which covers the sensor has somehow detached itself you can see in the pic. I want to reaffix is but I can only see that some kind of glue will do, The only thing is what to use. I don't want to just chuck some superglue on it in case the fumes contaminate the air where the sensor is. So, has anyone got an ideal solution to reattaching the glass in place without risk of any kind ???? Any help would be gratefully received Many Thanks Paul
  10. Hello all, I have a problem which I so hope someone can help me with Please Please Please ???? I've just acquired SGP and I'm having problems with Cooling my 8L When I connect my Camera in SGP the Temperature module shows the Cooler set to off so then I plug in the power lead into the DC-201s power unit, all good up to this point ! Then, with the 'Cool Down' set to -5c over a period of 10 Mins (set in a profile and the Control Panel) and the 'Warm Up' set to 20c over a period of 10 Mins, I click the Cooler to 'ON' in the temp module..............Not so OK from this point ! After clicking 'ON' for the cooler, SGP changes it's indicated power percentage to 1% and should just sit there until I click 'Cool Down' button but it does not. The power very rapidly shoots all the way up to 50% to 52% if I don't catch it and click the 'Warm Up' button really quick. Once the 'Warm Up' cycle completes and the camera is back at ambient temp I can click the Cooler on and off all day and all SGP does is show 1% and 0% respectively but no shooting up of the power. This hap- pens every time I start SGP and connect my 8L and power it up for the first time but once this initial issue is passed, cooling works as expected. The Cooling works perfectly and usually power sit's around 25% 'ish to maintain a -25c below the ambient temp. Does anyone have any Idea why my 8L on initial startup keeps wanting to pump the power up to 50% ?????? Incidentally, when I hook it up to QHY's EZCap software and open up the TEC control screen, the power is always set to 50% power and when enabling the 'Auto Control' feature also begins cooling with power at 50% which very rapidly knocks the temp way below zero before the software slowly brings the power down. To stop this happening, I have to open the TEC control box, click to 'Manual', move the power % slider all the way to zero % and then hit 'Auto Control' - Then the cooling works perfectly. I tried to go on the QHYCCD forum to ask there but all the forum is offering me is a Ransomware attack every time caught by Microsoft security essentials (good god, they must have really P*ssed someone off at some point). So I'm at your mercy :-D My System: Win 7 64bit (fully updated via Windows Update) ASCOM 6.1SP1 EQASCOM V1.28j QHY8L - Driver: V11-02-17 QHY8L - ASCOM Driver: V33 SGP Ver: Beta V2.4.3.11 (Same happens on current official release though) Seems like the Driver is initializing my 8L at 50% power instead of 0% power, the Dev's of SGP tell me that their software doesn't control the camera directly but sends commands to ASCOM and ASCOM decides what to do with the info so there is nothing they can do directly. It's strange how in SGP initial power shoots up immediately to 50% power and EZCap also defaults to 50% too, this surely has to be related somewhere along the line ???? Many thanks for allowing me to rattle on and I so hope someone can help. Best Regards Paul
  11. beamish, Yes PolarFinder is set to use system time.
  12. Hi all, Really sorry but i was away for a few days at extreme short notice, back now though. Ok, the centering of the reticule is not the issue here, already got that centered after a bit of 'Grubbing' My Eq-6 Pro goes ON, i enter the Date & current time all fine and i select 'NO' for DST as the UK is no longer in Daylight saving time and i get the Polaris HA info up. When setting the RA and referencing the polaris marker in the polarscope's position to what PolarFinder shows it to be on the Laptop it's always out of position by a, shall we say, a bit. What i have noticed purely by accident is that when booting up the EQ6, if i choose 'YES' to the DST question, then set the HA it matches PolarFinder perfectly. Whats that all about, it does'nt make sense, with DST set to 'NO' it's not just out a 'BIT', it's out by 1 hour, i manually set polarFinders date and time to 1 hour out to confirm. Everything on Google search's says the UK is no longer in DST, on the EQ-6 this must mean DST = NO. So why do i need to choose DST = YES on the handset to make Polaris HA = PolarFinder ???? A couple of people have suggested the possibility that the polarscope, when being inserted at the factory, has been inserted & fixed 1 hour out. Is this possible ??? So here's a little test, it's 09:10am here in the UK on 17/11/12 ( or 11/17/12 if you prefer ) Selecting DST = NO Polaris HA = 10:18 Clock = 00:50 Selecting DST = YES Polaris HA = 09:18 Clock = 01:20 Which one looks right ? While we are on the subject, what actually is the 'Clock' figure anyway, could this be the key ? The manual mentions the HA and Clock but does'nt actually tell you what to do with them directly. Many thanks for any help Regards Paul
  13. Hello all, New to this site so be gentle. I have a NEQ-6 Pro and consider myself reasonably intelegent but on polar aligning i find that the HA in the reticule does'nt line up correctly. I've been through all the tut's on you tube and of course the 'Acurate Polar Alignment' page in the Sky-Watcher Manual ( which i cant make head or tail of ) and every method produces the same result. So here's the issue. I am using a piece of software called PolarFinder off the net to allow me to compare the reticules angle against it (it is the Polar finder software which was written by Jason Dale ) I've set up Polar Finder correctly, I've set my Coordinates correctly in the handset, set the time zone as Zero as im in the UK, set the date, set the time and confirmed it as correct and accurate. Here's the interesting bit, i set daylight saving time in the handset to no as we are no longer in DST (in the UK anyway) Once i set the HA from the handset to RA axis it's always out a bit compared to what PolarFinder shows it should be. Now here's the interesting bit, if i boot up the EQ-6 and select 'Yes' to DST then the reticule matches PolarFinder perfectly. :-o Now i know what your going to say, in PolarFinder the DST checkbox is unchecked so thats the equivilent of choosing NO in the EQ-6's handset. So unless im missing something vital here, why is my EQ-6 polaris angle 1 hour out with ref to Polar Finder ???? Any light would be greatfully reflected up my tube. Many Thanks for any help Paul
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