Jump to content

bomberbaz

Members
  • Posts

    5,245
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Posts posted by bomberbaz

  1. I have shockingly bad astigmatism, an astronomers worst nightmare in optical terms as well as needing varifocals and here are my solutions. 

    Exit pupil of greater than 3.5mm, I use a either a televue dioptrix or wear my glasses or use astigmatism correcting contact lens. I prefer contact lens but the other two options are acceptable depending upon what I am viewing.

    An exit pupil of <3.5mm I put up with the astigmatism. I find it is generally not too severe in the smaller exit pupils and barely noticeable once I get down below 2mm.

    When using my large binoculars nearly always use contact lens. I can use glasses too but CL are preferred. 

    Hope this helps.

    Steve

    • Like 1
  2. Only 7 minutes of data using optimised 15 second subs, no filter, Evoguide and FF and ZWO 183MC pro. Very pleased what I have managed but this was really only a test of settings, very encouraging.

     

    M42smalldatagrabfinal.thumb.png.e43569747f317857007a57fa05713206.png

    • Like 11
  3. 18 hours ago, Astro74 said:

    Hello 

    I’m a complete beginner to AP and to processing- which would be better NINA or Sharpcap ? I need it to be very simple and easy to use for a beginner.

    thanks 

     

    A year ago I started out like you, no idea what I was doing. Some might say that's still the case 😉

    Anyway, I now use ZWO ASIAIR software for capture of data. If I didn't use that, I would use sharpcap instead.

    For processing at first I played around with Gimp, That is until I was introduced to Siril, so now I use Siril. (Siril is very easy)

    With Siril you can 90% process your data to give you a decent looking image, the process for this is largely automated. After just tidy up a little in Gimp, both Siril and Gimp programmes are free.

    • Like 1
  4. 2 hours ago, badhex said:

    Would love to read a review of this one - anyone on SGL or CN written anything substantial? 

    According to @Don Pensack review on here Vixen 30mm NLVW... - Eyepieces - Cloudy Nights the design is probably same/similar to an erfle, more suited to a longer focal length ota.

    I am beginning to wonder if I should cancel mine now, twas an impulse buy and reading this review (and a few others which are readily available), other than looking nice and being vixen, it isn't all that spectacular.

  5. 19 minutes ago, AstroNebulee said:

    Not sure, I've asked in diy section so will soon know 😊 or I'm just an idiot 😂

    Lee 

    Don't think you could do that mate, the lens arrangement in the scope will be set to focus at F10. It won't be a case of chopping it in half and making it F5.

    You could install a 0.5 reducer and that would make it F5 but it would have to come to focus of course and a reducer tends to bring the focus point closer in sometimes preventing this.

     

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  6. 32 minutes ago, AstroNebulee said:

    Just a one in from an enjoyable session with my Skymax 90mm on AZ5 before the clouds start rolling in.  Let the scope cool down whilst having a peak at Jupiter and Venus. Then after cooling down took in my usual subjects of M42, Castor and Mintaka to get my eye in. Mainly keeping the 32mm in and trying occasionally the 20mm possl. I did try my helios 21.5-7.2mm a zoom in the doubles but not giving as good as a 32 or 20mm was (think I'll just use this one on the Moon and planets from now on). Took in a view of Comet C2022 E3 ZTF and seemed quite bright. Then I went on a different tour and took in the beehive cluster and the double cluster in Perseus. I eventually found M31 using a combination of my Rigel qf and 9x50 raci fs, the first time I've seen it with my eyes and wow. Then to M33, just making it out. I did move along and hopped to Uranus and think I got it? Though not sure. Turned around 180° to Dubhe to help hunt down M81&82 which I found and was blown away I could make out the thin side on of M82. Of course these were all grey smudges with hints of brighter cores. I was amazed with such a lovely session I had, all manual and star hopping which gave me a good sense of accomplishment. Now is there such a thing as the slippery slope for visual astronomy as I began thinking hmm I'd like a Widefield refractor a nice st 80 would be great, then I'd still like to have my 90mm mak on, so a skytee would be nice too. I'm not worried about ep yet as I'm happy with my plossls from FLO 😊, sorry for my ramblings but I'm mainly an imager but relish the good times I'm having on the nights when imaging is futile. 

    Lee

    Good report Lee and you hit some reasonable targets too. With a faster ST80 you will yield a brighter, more detailed result on DSO galaxies & nebula. 

    • Thanks 1
  7. 11 hours ago, AnnieH said:

    I have now got a 5” Skywatcher, on an EQ2 mount, with a clock drive.

    Hi Annie and welcome to SGL.

    First off your 6" dobsonian is a cracking scope for visual, that is exactly what it is designed for. £4£ arguably the best in it's class. If, as I suspect it is this Sky-Watcher Classic 150P Dobsonian | First Light Optics then it sits nicely in-between planetary and deep sky territory. So it is if you like, a jack of all trades type scope but perfectly acceptable for all your visual needs.  Sharp views of planets, double stars, clusters and decent views of brighter galaxies and nebula.

    Now regarding the 5" SW on the EQ2 mount with clock drive ^^.  I am guessing this Sky-Watcher Explorer 130 (EQ-2) | First Light Optics. Sounds as though you are drawn into imaging! The question is how good is the clock drive? I am not familiar with this.

    Can you set the scope onto a object and is it good enough to hold the target in eyepiece view for several minutes without you having to alter anything?  If the answer is yes, then you may be able to manage some very basic planetary and moon imaging with maybe some star clusters pictures but that is likely to be it's limitations. The reason being the shaky mount will not allow long exposures. (please forget mounting the 6" dobsonian on it)

    As per @Elp, it can become a money pit. So if you are thinking about getting into serious imaging then be aware your talking bigger money (probably £2,000+) for even the most basic setup stretching into the 10's of £1,000's for the more high end outfits.

    I hope this helps but please ask if you need anything further. 

    Steve

  8. Well it's more substantial than I expected. Glad it's arrived after quite a wait just in time for a prolonged period of cloud.

    I wanted one of these APM super zoom since they were launched. I have to say it is reassuringly weighty and has the ooze of class when picked up, the same as when I hold a Tv or Nikon eyepiece. 

    20230207_121602.thumb.jpg.220335b3ba42f0e230a00fb9d27f3168.jpg

    20230207_121618.thumb.jpg.0dca07ac3e130ae5e2dd25be583da035.jpg

    • Like 13
  9. 32 minutes ago, Shimrod said:

    Interesting review - I've been considering some image stabilised binoculars as we've somehow managed to damage one of our 10x42 binoculars. I had been looking at the Canon 12x36 as they seemed to be closest equivalent at a sensible price. I'd seen the Bresser binoculars but didn't see them anywhere remotely close to £850 - where did you buy them? 

    We use our binoculars for bird watching and general terrestrial use (their main purpose) with sky-watching a secondary activity. There's a lot of good reviews for the Canon - the only thing that has put me off buying so far has been lack of waterproofing, which the Bresser's offer (along with higher magnification). I'd be interested to hear how they perform in daylight and how well CA is controlled.

    So I obtained them from this outlet:  

    https://www.photospecialist.co.uk/bresser-16x42-stabiliser-ois- and I have to say they were very good with the service, had them in about a week.

    Just tried them now in daylight on tree branches at a variety of positions and distance, remember these are F2.6 ish and they gave no blue fringing except on the ones closest to me which appeared to have a slight blue/purple fringing along the lower edges. 

    It won't bother me that much as I will be using them terrestrial too, we go to a local wetland wildlife centre regular away. 

     

  10. 6 minutes ago, chubster1302 said:

    Perfect thanks Elp (and Bomberbaz) will I need any adapters, other cables etc? I can you see any glaring errors ? Is that me done "currently" with the expensive items 

    Am i correct in saying that i do not need a flattener with the above setup ?

    have you considered the guidestar plus FF at less cost which is also less weight.

    https://www.firstlightoptics.com/william-optics/william-optics-guidestar-61.html

    I use the SW evoguide and that was for weight and cost purposes.

    • Like 1
  11. 3 minutes ago, Elp said:

    You can use the in built sidereal tracking of the azgti, autoguiding with the GS and guidecam will be more accurate. If you've got a laptop free you can use something like NINA to control it, otherwise a lot of us use asiairs. Alternatives are raspberry pis with Astroberry or Stellarmate, or a windows mini pc. You'll need an eqdir cable (usb to rj12) specifically for the azgti (FLO sell it):

    https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sky-watcher-mount-accessories/lynx-astro-ftdi-eqdir-usb-adapter-for-sky-watcher-az-gti-mounts.html

     

    ^^^ what he said 

    • Like 1
  12. I decided to upgrade from my current 10x30 image stabilised binocular to a larger size.  I had been looking at various brands then stumbled upon the bressers more by accident than anything else.

    So I will keep this to the point. The Bresser's give as stated a 16 times magnification (I had been looking at 14 or 15 times) and a 42mm objective. Good point is this configuration gives me a 2.6mm exit pupil which makes viewing without glasses very acceptable despite my astigmatism. There is a tiny bit of astigmatism showing through in the view but it isn't enough to bother me. The extra 12mm of aperture just about doubles the light gathering over the old canon 10x30's.

    They are light too, roughly the same weight as the Canon 10x30 at 644gm.  Another plus point for them in the image stabilising button locks in place so no need to keep it constantly pressed in, on the downside it times out after a few minutes, 

    They are super steady in use and give a useful 3.8 degree FOV.

    Had a very quick play outside tonight, they have arrived very well collimated and got some good (but washed out by moonlight) views of Pleiades, Hyades also managed to find andromeda, orions belt looked tidy in one FOV and could make out some nebulosity in M42. Managed to glimpse M103, the owl cluster and the double cluster too and then dropped onto the moon in all her fullness. A satisfying little session to break them in.

    All in I am very pleased with them and the £850 price tag is far less than competitors offering similar spec.

    • Like 5
  13. I never knew the FC100DC was so versatile.  The use of reducers/extenders make it a very attractive option.  I would be very tempted to get the 1.6 extender with it, especially for solar use. 

    I know it is a superbly corrected bit of kit anyway but be interested to hear from anyone who uses the extender and how or if it helps.

    • Like 1
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.