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Ishan Mair

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Posts posted by Ishan Mair

  1. Imagine my horror when I got a new HEQ5 Pro, the altitude head adjustment wont work because it was too tight. I called my local dealer here in India and they said its "normal" its not supposed to move !!😒 I thought how am I supposed to polar align this thing... I searched the web and found Astrobaby's guide and loosened those three hex bolts a little...Now I can adjust it fine. Its still a bit jerky with heavy gear on it but definitely not a problem.

    Needless to say, in the seven years that have followed, I've never thought about buying any item from that dealer.

  2. On 20/07/2020 at 22:07, newbie alert said:

    So adding weight forces it to lock up more... must be the locking nut, or you're missing a plastic washer or something? Have you taken the mount apart?

    Interesting. I took the mount apart 4 years ago. I think I did put the red washer back. Maybe I should take it apart once again and try adjusting things.

  3. 23 hours ago, Starflyer said:

    When you lubricated the brass worm wheel with lithium grease did you also put it onto the undercut / recess that the clutch tightens against?

    This area should be completely free of grease / oil, as should the face of the brass button on the clutch.  The clutch relies on a brass to brass contact without lubrication, any grease will make the clutch less effective, even to the point where it slips easily. 

    You should never have to tighten clutches really tight, in fact doing so can give you worse guiding as it's easy to distort things. The lightest clutch pressure needed to lock the axis against accidental slight knocks is all that's required. If you have to overtighten a clutch then it's not working properly.

    There is not undercut in HEQ5 brass worm wheel. I think I didn't put grease on the worm wheel. But it could be that I polished the worm wheel too smooth while cleaning it. So now the clutch doesn't hold it.

    On 17/07/2020 at 15:58, newbie alert said:

    Having the clutch too tight can force things to one side too

    But I was swinging the axis freely so clutch was unlocked. So it can't force the axis.

  4. 2 hours ago, newbie alert said:

    The mount seems more fluid when you remove the scope to me... if it's new and still within warrenty then send it back.. the axis should be like what your DEC axis is

    If it's not then the first thing id check is the locking ring on that axis, if it's too tight it can lock things up, if it's too loose then there's some lateral play.. hand tight is plenty..

    Of course, its not new anymore as that post was in 2014 🤣

    My observation with my mount has been slightly different from almost everyone on this planet. I

    I notice that when I hand tighten the RA nut, the axis is way too smooth for clutch to hold it. With clutch locked with enough force (confirmed that it does not touch the stop), I can just pull a cable little bit and it would slip. Balancing is a nightmare.

    Now the interesting part. As I would gradually loosen the RA nut, the axis rotation becomes more and more dragged. Ultimately, when its too loose, lateral play shows up.

    I have tried setting the RA lock nut up in between too smooth and too dragged, but have been not been successful.

  5.  

    6 hours ago, Dan13 said:

    Hi did you ever figure this out? I have the exact same issue...


    If the mount is under warranty, contact the seller.
    I've tried something. I wouldn't say I its sorted. Frankly, I know almost nothing about how the mechanism works. So I wouldn't like to suggest anything. I'm sorry I can not help. You could try starting a similar topic. Others with knowledge will give good advice.

     

    • Thanks 1
  6. 20 hours ago, Bluecloudyeagle said:

    Excellent image! always great to see a fellow Indian here. If you don't mind me asking, where do you get the equipment in India from? (like the ZWO camera, orion guidescope, filters etc)

    Thanks :) 

    Thanks Shivam. I replied to your post on another forum as well. I ordered these from dealers like OPT or direct from ZWO website. We have to pay the usual customs and duties etc. My experience with dealers in our country has been average so far.

    15 hours ago, Pankaj said:

    Awesome image. Sharp & crisp with lot of details.

    Thank you.

    • Like 1
  7. 12 hours ago, MarkAR said:

    Great image, lovely colours.  I don't think it needs any Ha.

    Thanks Mark. That's what I thought as soon as I merged the L with RGB. The pink blobs of gas were sitting right there.

    12 hours ago, RayD said:

    It's just a case of trial and error really.  I would say that if you have set it at exactly 55mm then it is likely you will be adding rather than taking away, so just some delrin spacers and add, say, 0.5mm at a time and try it.

    It's a good image and you've processed it well.

    Thanks again Ray. I have some of those lying around. I'll put those in the next time.

  8. Thank you for the comments, Ray.
    Yes I agree corrector spacing is not right. I use a Baader MPCC and I used the image train arrangement as shown on ZWO website but couldn't get it right (55mm). Filter's thickness and refractive index play a role, don't they?
    Does the spacing need to be more or less?  I have no idea.

  9. Finally, this project is completed and so is this season (I hope not)... The LRGB version of M51 is here..Took me 5 nights (1 in April and 4 in May) to image the whole thing. And very long to process. Wish to add Ha but its been cloudy since a week and a storm expected this week.
    1600328915_M51-LRGB-2020-06-01.thumb.jpg.30b430485e789563f43cc488373932fc.jpg


    Here's the Astrobin link
    https://www.astrobin.com/k6o2c0


    I have not been able to get the star cores and colors right. Tried using HSV Repair Script in PI but to no avail. Please help me out with that.

    L : 220 x 60s
    R : 90 x 60s
    G : 98 x 60s
    B : 120 x 60s
    All frames at Gain 0 & Temp. -5C..while ambient stayed above 33C entire nights.

    Equipment
    Camera : ZWO ASI1600mm Pro
    Telescope : Skywatcher 130PDS
    Mount : HEQ5Pro
    Guiding : Orion 50mm guidescope, Orion SSAG Camera
    Filters: Orion LRGB
    Other/Accessories : ZWO FW, Pegasus Dual Motor Focuser

    Location : Gujarat, India. (Bortle 5)

    Thanks for looking.

     

     

    • Like 18
  10. 2 hours ago, Krishnam kalra said:

    I would be doing astrophotography 

    So that rules out 2 and 3 like I said. You may wish to reconsider your choice of putting the 8" f/6 tube on a mount for astrophotography. It will be a relatively more frustrating and costly way of doing it especially if its your first mount. I am not saying its impossible just quite difficult.

  11. On 15/05/2020 at 01:32, Krishnam kalra said:

    I want to put my gso 8" f/6(dob mount) (13kg) ota on a go-to mount . I have shortlisted these

    1- skywatcher EQ 6R go-to ( cost : 1,58,400 INR )

    2- I-optron CEM40 with polarscope go-to mount (cost : 1,47,000 INR )

    3- I-optron CEM40 with I-polar and IstarFi go-to mount (cost : 1,74,000 ).

    Which one should I buy ? 

     

     

     

    Hi Krishnam. What would you like to do with this setup? Imaging or visual/observing? If imaging, choice no.2 and no. 3 are eliminated. The tube of 8" f/6 is simply too long and heavy for CEM40.

  12. 2 hours ago, astro mick said:

    I look forward to the colour.I do notice very slight elongation in the stars.This is a pain most of us have until we find the cause.

    Nice job.

    Mick.

    Thanks Mick. The stars are elongated as the tracking was poor. The RA and Dec RMS for guiding were each above 1 arc-second. So I wasn't too surprised by it. I hope now that the moon is less obstructive, RGB should come soon.

    • Like 1
  13. Here's only L for M51 I captured two weeks ago. 220 x 60s L exposures with ASI1600mm Pro and 130PDS. Hopefully, will be better with more L and RGB data.

    Spent a lot of time processing it. Pretty good for my skills but the background still isn't "right". It appears blotchy and smoother than what it should have been.  What do you reckon? 
    Your tips/comments/criticism are most welcome.
    MasterLight_Lum3.thumb.jpg.b7350f5bbab91a25a887985383e94e10.jpg

    • Like 5
  14. On 01/02/2020 at 22:21, masjstovel said:

    Here you go. I feel RA is very nice. In DEC it sort of "brakes up" ever so slightly from time to time, and i found out thats because the axis-rod losenes itself from the bearing nearest the polar scope top opening. I can see it through the opening, the axis-rod sort of slips alittle and rotates without the bearing. Maybe i didnt clean the inner bearing-ring enough. I havent tried guiding yet as the weather hasnt been right, but i imagine it wouldnt affect the guiding. If it does i will poor a couple of loc-tite drops on the axis where the bearing sits.

     

    Thank you for the video  :) . Gives me a chance to compare. Mine is perhaps a little more free in RA. Same as yours in Dec though. So I dont have a lot of problems balancing on Dec. May be I should disassemble RA and try again. How did you check for  the "90  degree" movement  for axis-shaft mentioned by @teoria_del_big_bang in this sketch in topic earlier ?

  15. On 23/12/2019 at 22:52, tooth_dr said:

    Mark, I also still suffer from stiffness in my dec axis, when the clutch is opened (or even removed altogether).  Even with 15kg on it it doesn't spin that freely.  Im still getting guiding at 0.6 or less RMS in dec axis, sometimes no corrections are needed over extended periods of time.  But it's very hard to balance effectively.  I do it by feel but I cant be sure if it's balanced.  I sanded down the inside of my Dec bell housing but I think I should have went more when I did it.  Never had an issues with my clutch though.

    Can our mounts be averaged out? That would make the both of us happy !!
     I would not try sanding it down more than that if does guide good in declination.

    On 24/12/2019 at 00:16, spillage said:

    Thanks for the info Adam. Mine seems to be in RA and is better with a bit more weight loaded. With the quattro I can see .5 but with the 130pds I am struggling to get .8.  I might bite the bullet and replace some of the bearing and give is a quick service if I can find the time. I must admit the stars are not too bad but feel it could be a bit better.

    My HEQ5 rarely achieves less than 1" with 130pds.

    On 24/12/2019 at 16:32, masjstovel said:

    @Ishan Mair if you disassemble, please have 100% control of the white/blank teflon washers - which, where and how many etc.. Be aware that it can be 2  greased together that looks like 1 and so on:)

    Heq5 just has just one red washer so I wont have to worry about it.

    • Like 1
  16. On 22/12/2019 at 16:20, masjstovel said:

    @Ishan Mair i am still not 100% satisfied with my problems yet, but i dont mind at if you're posting about your problem too:)

    I might have a sollution for you.

    In Martin Pyotts videos on youtube he mentions the exact problem you describe. Its a common mistake that the whole brass-wheel gets greased, when its just the teeth that need greasing. Symptoms when greasing the whole part, is as you describe: The clutch dont brake very well.

    I too had the problem like you, just not as bad as you describe. When i did the supertuning there was alot of grease on that brasswheel where the clutch grips (factory grease - 2nd owner but saw no signs that the mount had been disassembled before), which i removed. Now the clutches grip very well. 

    Thanks @masjstovel. I will watch the video series again. I will clear the surface of housing and brass-wheel when I disassemble it. Could you please shoot a video that shows how easy and smooth is rotation of axis while balancing? I hope its not too much to ask for.

  17. Masjstovel, congratulations for making progress in solving your problem. I hope you wont mind if I continue discussions for my problem in this topic as the drawing and video provide good help.

    To Steve... Thank you for the drawing. It did its job very well.

    15 hours ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

    However, neither of the above should have anything to do with the axis slipping when the locknut is tightened. I would say something is not set right with that or something missing. Make sure the brass button is there under the locking screw, also ensure the screw is wound in enough before screwing on the lever, from memory you need to screw the screw in till you just feel it start to tighten up then back off about 1/8 turn and then fit the lever so that 1/4 turn or so on the lever totally lock the axis in place. But make sure the brass button is there otherwise you will damage the spindle with the end of the screw.

    See here:-

    heq5-rebuild

     

    Steve

    I am sure the brass button is there. I've also adjusted the lever, it does indeed contact the RA axis spindle before it hits the stop.

    I must confess that I am quite surprised by what I will mention now. While you say that RA black nut should not have anything to do with axis rotation or slipping, I've noticed that if I keep the RA black nut hand tight, axis becomes very free to rotate by hand. Thus clutch/brass button cant stop the rotation of RA axis even against a small force. Is it possible that RA worm spindle (made of brass) and or housing is too smooth that brass button doesn't cause enough friction? 

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