Jump to content

1564402927_Comet2021Banner.jpg.a8d9e102cd65f969b635e8061096d211.jpg

Mr Bergman

Members
  • Posts

    666
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Mr Bergman

  1. Thanks Olly! Yep, you are right about doing the curves right. I am doing some progress now. But although I am very careful I get some halos at the end. Made some experiments with curves yesterday, but since the halos/bloating occurs mostly in the red channel, they get worse when I try to dig out the nebulosity which is mostly in that channel. This is not easy! I was thinking about focussing or deep sky stacker causing it, but the blue channel is perfectly focussed. Hmm...
  2. Thank you MG! I think the best advice then is to lower the ISO and try with longer subs as a start. Hadn't thought about that since I was recommended to use iso 1600 with my modded camera.
  3. Hi folks, I have been trying to reduce star bloating from my modded dslr. Long exposures seem to bleed out colours from really big stars, which after stretching give me large difficult halos. Doesn´t matter if I isolate the stars before stretching, since the bloat already is lurking in the background. I had a look at the colour channels and the biggest problem is in the red channel, where I also have the nebulosity. So how do I solve this? Well, I am not sure to be honest! The only way I can come up with is, 1) Careful stretching when doing the non-linear, not to bloat the stars 2) Removing colour halos http://budgetastro.com/micro/articals/red_halos/red_halos.html These two is only working for stars that are not bloated in an excessive amount. The best way I found is therefore to Select a portion of neutral background close to the star, Feather it, put it above the star, use a layer Mask, reveal all and then paint it just above the star so you get a pinhole. Thus you will have a better looking star without bloating, and you can do it after stretching. Is this a "normal practice" for you pro´s out there, or is it regarded as "too much"? I mean, I wouldn´t want to alter too much of an image. Comments, suggestions and tips are welcome! /Erik
  4. Agree with others, a fine image for two shots.
  5. Yep, definitely som dust in there! Nicely done!
  6. Nice image Per! I am also struggling with starcolour and also starbloating....
  7. Ok, thank you. My subs have from the beginning quite nicely formed stars, but with a small small hint of halo, which when I stretch the image gets bigger. ( only on really big stars ) I think your masked stretch is the key then!
  8. Impressive Stuart!! Really good imaging. How do you keep your stars so clean and unbloated? Any special procedure? This is something I am struggling with. Best regards, Erik
  9. And Sweden is a little bit warmer...but can get really cold during winter....expect down to -25c. Oh, by the way, I made a reprocess of the image in a more classic modded dslr style. /Erik
  10. Thank you Scott! Well, the skies here aren´t really perfect, and not totally dark, but the target was directly over my head. I am very glad to be able to image without LP-filter though.
  11. Thank you very much Chris!, much appreciated. Sensor temps @18-21C made it quite noisy, winter will be better for this camera:-)
  12. Hi folks!, recently tried my newly baadermodded Canon 1100d. Processed in PS. Glad to have a working setup, even though I need to improve my processing skills. The hardest part is to control the biggest stars. 16*180 subs in total of 48 minutes. Darks t-shirt flats:-) Best regards, Erik
  13. Very nice image Per! I am also waiting for a clear dark night for some at home imaging. /Erik
  14. Hello Michael, I was in your situation a year ago, and ended up with a Neq6 and Skywatcher 190MN. A very good mount indeed, and a nice scope, but hard to collimate, heavy and bulky. If I had the choice now, I would have gone for a smaller refractor, and a good one directly. If you have the money, go for a refractor. A nice triplet could be the Star 71 which seems ready to use out of the box with good optics. Or a doublet, ed80 for less money. /Erik
  15. Of course not Olly!, I did not buy the 1000d, but the 1100d And that's a huge difference:-) All kidding aside, it should be possible to produce a fairly good image with a less expensive camera and a ha filter. Any experience on this? I'ts an interesting thought.
  16. Very interesting! Suddenly I feel that there might be an altenative to expensive ccd imaging if I buy myself a HA-filter to fit my modded 1100d! /Erik
  17. Hello Stuart! A very nice image! I like your processing; subtle yet with a lot of details. Your dslr imaging gives me inspiration to coming season. /Erik
  18. Like it very much! Especially the subtle colours. /Erik
  19. An impressive image as always! I really like your smooth looking backgrounds Olly, and I understand that PI´s DBE is a very nice tool. I have tried everything from removing gradients with Astronomy Tools to following Neil Flemings photoshop steps ( http://www.flemingastrophotography.com/gradients.html), but none is comparable to the DBE, wich I got to try once. I wish it was possible to buy a standalone PI DBE program, instead of having to buy the whole package, which is a little bit expensive. /Erik
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.