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VigdisVZ

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Posts posted by VigdisVZ

  1. As I've understood it, you reduce exposure time until the histogram is about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way from the left. Worked reasonably well for me two days ago when having the histogram peak about halfway. I used a white shirt stretched over the opening and a diffuse work lamp instead of pointing straight up at the sky.

  2. Good lunar pics!

    You need to increase exposure lengths to many seconds to catch starlight. Focus should be about the same as the moon. And if your mount isnt tracking perfectly they will bounce around in the FOV and spread the light to where it wont be visible.

    This is why deep sky photo is so expensive, you need an EQ-mount that solidly tracks the sky without field rotation in order to give the sensor time to collect the data.

    You could try catching M31 and M45 and M42 to name a few with short (say 5 seconds give or take) with high ISO. You might get signal, but its unlikely that the setup will yield anything solid, as neither mount and scope is well suited for catching DSOs.

  3. I have 3 main sites:

    For quick bino obsing I walk 10 minutes across the railway out into the fields towards the international Airport. Lots of LP, but good to have withing walking distance, but I have picked out good number of bright Messiers there.

    For quicker telescope sessions I drive about 15 minutes outside town to a golf course. Unfortunately they down plow the parking lot during winter but its good for spring/autumn.

    For allnighters the club has a dark site observatory. 45 minute drive but moderately dark.

  4. Trialing. I like some of the functions where you remote control camera, scope, focus and guide via ASCOM. Not there yet. Just giving the stacking a go. Right now I'm back playing with the old DSS data. Been eyeballing Pixinsight. Wont plunk down and wads of cash until i get consistent data however.

  5. Thanks! I'm learning tons by processing and reprocessing. RIght now I would have liked to see a mix between the two. Sadly the 2nd version was much harder since I couldnt get a version out of Maxim with the background intact. And the first version from DSS wouldn't give me any blue whatsoever.

    Unsure what path I'll take next but please keep the feedback coming!

  6. Generally, moon and planets are bright and dont require fancy CCD's and DSLRs, but can be captured with cheaper webcams and alike, by taking a short movie, and stacking the frames to wash out noise into a single image.

    Faint deepsky objects require much more from both the camera and the mount.

    No experience with planets myself, but there are lots of good people around that should be able to give you advice on what camera.

  7. Greetings SGL.

    I finally got out of the apartment for some imaging. Those who saw my last thread know that I was hoping to take longer subs with a timer remote, but the model I got was faulty. My latest step is to take lower ISO subs, this time I went down to ISO800. The whole image consists of 39x30sec lights. 16 flats. 40 bias. 1 dark (dropped the ball on that one, was tired so pushed single exposure instead of using the cameras interal interval timer). Kit is in my sig. No coma corrector.

    I'm pretty pleased with how the flats turned out (t-shirt method), still a slight darkening in the top left corner but way better than before. I'm happy got a lot of yellow in some of the large stars. For some reason I couldnt tease out any blue, so hoping to maybe reprocess it.

    Stacked in DSS, finished with levels, curves and more saturation in Photoshop. Slightly cropped to improve composition.

    I also had to throw away half of the subs because the rig lost focus a little mid sequence, but luckily a few stars showed themselves in live view so I could refocus quickly.

    What I learned this time is to be more careful and take shorter sequences and rechecking focus.

    Looking for feedback on how to improve any aspect (apart from getting a real timer, guidescope and coma corrector). Thanks for looking.

    gallery_26290_2172_90678.png

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  8. I know about Nikons camera settings. I've tried it once for widefields. It's not the camera settings. I take my darks separately. This occured when I tried taking daylight sequences as a trial before heading out.

    I've tried all combinations on the camera. Like I said above, we got 1 of 4 timers of the same brand to work at the store where I bought it, once. It's either faulty timers or some kind of random loose contact glitch.

    As soon as I can borrow a friends timer and bulb cables I'll have ruled out the camera, and the only thing left then is to find another brand timer or go nuts and get an AP modded Canon.

  9. Right now I'm writing this off as faulty timers. Could get one to work once in the store, but the battery holder was bogus and neither me or the store clerk could get it to work again.

    Camera does not have "auto reduce noise" but all the Nikon equalivents was off.

    A buddy of mine has a similar camera, bulb cables for EQmod and a different timer remote. Paying him a visit soon to rule out that my own camera is glitchy.

    Thanks again all!

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