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VigdisVZ

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Posts posted by VigdisVZ

  1. You can get it as a smudgy star with your current kit, but ideally youre looking at some kind of mount that tracks the sky, like a proper motorized equatorial telescope mount or an Astrotrac or Skywatchers Star Adventurer.

    It can be done with a 200-300mm telephoto lens (prime or zoom) or a dedicated telescope with no more than roughly 500mm focal length if you want to capture it whole.

    Also +1 for Making Every Photon Count if you really want to try the deep waters...

  2. A combination of cheap mount and polar alignment. Even perfect alignment wont help budget mounts, the worm gears arent machined to that quality. Thats why people use guide setups or buy really really expensive mounts.

    If you can take 30sec to 1 minute subs without the stars being eggy, you should be happy. I can stretch my NEQ-6 to 90sec up to 2 minutes unguided if I'm lucky.

    Would still be interesting to see one sub.

    • Like 2
  3. No, Raw/L is fine! The motors should ofcourse go at 1x speed so they track the sky. It's easy to verify, if you leave the telescope at one star for a few minutes it shouldn't have moved out of view.

    I think its just a matter of achieving focus with live view. Polar alignment, synscan setup and balance will ofcourse affect everything, but assuming that it's correctly setup it shold be a matter of finding focus.

    Can you share an example of one of your pictures so maybe we can see whats the issue?

    • Like 1
  4. Yeah, like Ronin says, if it's a dobson you wont be able to get M31. Technically a dobson can be used for planetary work, but not deep sky.

    To achieve focus with a DSLR, i use Live View and try to point the scope at a star bright enough to focus on using zoomed live view. Most objects has one or two stars that appear in live view luckily.

    DSS needs round, sharp stars to stack reliably. I've had it yell at me even when my subs looked "ok".

    • Like 2
  5. Hello SGL

    Just came home from a nice evening with my astronomy club. According to tradtion we always kick of the season with a grilling party. The clouds lingered all evening but we got 1 hour of more or less clear skies just after dark. I had left my scope at home but brought my DSLR for some widefields. It didn't matter as we had a good time eating and talking, and during the clear streak Lars took had a visual session for old and new members in the 18" newtonian (the large white dome), Mats and Patrik tried to catch an asteroid occultation with the 16" RC astrograph. We also had two refractors and one MN190 collecting subs and Magnus 6" newton used for sketching.

    Two really new things for me this evening: First we saw Mother of Pearl Clouds or Nacreous Clouds after sunset. Never really seen those, let alone record them. Also Magnus showed me the Veil nebula with his 6" newton. At first I was really not sure what I saw, but then he fitted his filters it really popped out at me. Need to get me a few of those.

    Good way to kick of a new season, in spite of clouds.

    gallery_26290_3375_715767.jpg

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    gallery_26290_3375_562843.jpg

    gallery_26290_3375_8945.jpg

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    Thanks for watching!

    • Like 2
  6. I can't remember any of the program or application names, but Jonas Grinde http://stargazerslounge.com/user/7640-grinde/ and a few others I know of have automated obsys. I think his rig is situated at Olly's place in france now. He used to have a rig in sweden where the roof automaticly rolled off when the sky was clear (clould sensor camera), and started shooting targets from a priority list (taking into account height above horizon and location of the moon). He just had to check his FTP for fresh data each morning :)

    Chuck him a PM and ask what he uses.

  7. In Deep Sky Stacker, try bumping saturation to 25%. Also the double cluster contains very few "blue" stars. Many reference images, including my last try has a false blue in it for esthetics. But you should at very least be able to get some orange out of some stars.

    Best way I've found is to fidget around with channels in DSS to get a balanced image, then bump saturation to 20-30% then save a 32 bit tiff, open in phothoshop, convert using exposure/gamma (not local adaption) to 16 bit and take it from there.

    It's a whole new beast for me to process astrophotography, struggling at times to get my head around the workflow, and I've been using photoshop off and on for 20 years now. Only the last 2 or so DSO images (out of a total of roughly 8 tries) has yielded a result I started to get happy with and it's been over 2 seasons now. So what I'm trying to say is keep doing it, keep experimenting, dont give up.

  8. Hello

    I'd say you're right in the zone with that setup. I think the NEQ-6 handle a 200pds for imaging, but the general consensus seem to be it's a bit on the large side.

    Adding the 2nd counterweight might be needed since I'm using the 150pds without the ST80 at the moment, and I'm fairly close to the end of the bar with a single counterweight. But all that will become clear as you go through the balancing process.

    • Like 1
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