Jump to content

VigdisVZ

Members
  • Content Count

    2,306
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

Posts posted by VigdisVZ

  1. Thanks. 

    I could proably have cropped out the vignetting, but I decided to leave them as it was more of a test run with new camera. They were also made a lot worse in the processing, the raw data was much smoother.

    I think the orientation worked, didn't give it much thought, I havent really thought about what I wanted to convey, more or less shot from the hip. At first I wanted to have another composition, but later realised I couldn't rotate the camera as I would on a focuser, since I just took my plate adapter from my tripod and screwed it to the NEQ-6 instead of a dovetail.

  2. Gotten replies! Astronomizer don't work with Nikon.

    JTW works with Nikon and will do a filter removal for 200€ (high price due to Nikons being more difficult).

    So, at this point I might just let go of the Nikon incl. kit lens for 150€ to a friend, and find a used Canon that's already modded. But I still haven't made up my mind :)

  3. They can be used to darken the sky in a shot or reduce reflections from glass and smooth water. I've played with mine a bit. When light strikes an object, such as a plane of glass, it tends to become polarised in a certain direction. The filter can be rotated on the end of the lens until much of the reflections disappear, allowing you to see through it more clearly. Here's a proper explanation.

    Yep.

  4. UV filters are mostly for peace of mind today. Every extra layer of glass is detrimental to the image quality. And as has been said before, an impact hard enough to break the filter, will most likely damage the lens. However, if you have an otherwise weather-sealed setup, the UV-filter could seal it more effectively.

    • Like 1
  5. +1 for the book mentioned above.

    Basicly you're looking at a HEQ-5 and a 80ED refractor.

    http://www.firstlightoptics.com/pro-series/skywatcher-evostar-80ed-pro-heq5-pro.html

    Ideally you can fiddle about with different scopes, depending on what focal length you want to shoot at, and if you really want to be upgrade-safe for a while, settle for a NEQ-6 mount.

    If you spend any less you will run the risk of wanting to upgrade soon, and with cheaper gear you will not get consistent results, something that may cause you to quit altogether. So while you can use the EQ3-2 mentioned above to a degree, it's far from ideal. Very far.

    Then you have to realise it's a slippery slope when you need guiding equipment, better scopes/cameras/warm clothers and a good supply of jaffa cakes.

  6. You definetly have some good data. I would suggest playing around a lot more in post processing in DSS before finishing in GIMP. No idea on the stars actually, but if you bump the saturation, you got clear separation of blue and yellow, so there is color in there to work with. There are some youtube videos out there to give you a hint of what to do even if I haven't found the definitive guide yet. I think you would benefit most of learning to take t-shirt flats as you have a heavy gradient/vignetting.

    Look at the part where he works with the histogram in this one for instance: 

    Doug German also has some good stuff: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvLpugEDmDVQr1JDptAsbQg

    Let us know how you get along.

    • Like 1
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.