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Everything posted by VigdisVZ

  1. Fantastic, thanks for pointing that out. The sky is like a box of chocolate...
  2. The high megapixel count actually makes the noise disappear a bit when scaling down. Will revisit this again when I have tiltable head and a timer remote.
  3. Thanks. I could proably have cropped out the vignetting, but I decided to leave them as it was more of a test run with new camera. They were also made a lot worse in the processing, the raw data was much smoother. I think the orientation worked, didn't give it much thought, I havent really thought about what I wanted to convey, more or less shot from the hip. At first I wanted to have another composition, but later realised I couldn't rotate the camera as I would on a focuser, since I just took my plate adapter from my tripod and screwed it to the NEQ-6 instead of a dovetail.
  4. Just a quick and dirty trial run of my new Nikon D800. 14 lights, 30 seconds each at ISO 3200. 50mm 1.4 lens stopped down to F/4. NEQ-6 mount. Stacked in DSS, and a quick finish in PS.
  5. VigdisVZ

    Widefield misc

    Random pictures taken with wide-angle lens.
  6. From the album: Widefield misc

    Just a trial run of my new Nikon D800. 14 lights, 30 seconds each at ISO 3200. 50mm 1.4 lens stopped down to F/4. NEQ-6 mount.
  7. Define auto focuser. You can fit a motor to practically all focusers if you're handy and then run a PC software to make a an automatic focus curve regularly.
  8. Hey there friend, welcome to SGL. A good place to start out would be to look at some bright easy big targets like M31, M42 and M45. Also the Double Cluster in Perseus would be a nice start. A good book on easy targets for starting out is "Turn Left At Orion", check it out if you want a good book on the subject. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Turn-Left-Orion-Hundreds-Telescope/dp/0521153972
  9. Nice colors and good amount of dust. Good job.
  10. Great to see you back in the saddle my friend. Good shot in spite of conditions.
  11. Might as well get a modded canon and a kit lens for that price at JTW. Cheers for the mail Stoffe, see you soon!
  12. Gotten replies! Astronomizer don't work with Nikon. JTW works with Nikon and will do a filter removal for 200€ (high price due to Nikons being more difficult). So, at this point I might just let go of the Nikon incl. kit lens for 150€ to a friend, and find a used Canon that's already modded. But I still haven't made up my mind
  13. New slightly used Nikon D800. Megapixels all over the place.

    1. tingting44
    2. VigdisVZ


      36, but probably looking at keeping the old APS-C camera for astromodification, if I can find someone who works on Nikons.

    3. tingting44
  14. Yep I've seen these, gonna send some mails. Thanks Ronin.
  15. Hey Anyone know of anybody who does astromods to Nikons, specifically a D5100? Preferably in the UK or EU since I'll be shipping it... Going to check what this costs, before I start looking at used modded Canons.
  16. Polarisation filters however, those can be VERY useful from time to time. If you get the high quality ones.
  17. UV filters are mostly for peace of mind today. Every extra layer of glass is detrimental to the image quality. And as has been said before, an impact hard enough to break the filter, will most likely damage the lens. However, if you have an otherwise weather-sealed setup, the UV-filter could seal it more effectively.
  18. Modded DSLR and then start saving for a real CCD.
  19. +1 for the book mentioned above. Basicly you're looking at a HEQ-5 and a 80ED refractor. http://www.firstlightoptics.com/pro-series/skywatcher-evostar-80ed-pro-heq5-pro.html Ideally you can fiddle about with different scopes, depending on what focal length you want to shoot at, and if you really want to be upgrade-safe for a while, settle for a NEQ-6 mount. If you spend any less you will run the risk of wanting to upgrade soon, and with cheaper gear you will not get consistent results, something that may cause you to quit altogether. So while you can use the EQ3-2 mentioned above to a degree, it's far from ideal. Very far. Then you have to realise it's a slippery slope when you need guiding equipment, better scopes/cameras/warm clothers and a good supply of jaffa cakes.
  20. There is always drift alignment. Also, unless you're going for astrophotography, dead on alignment isn't needed.
  21. You definetly have some good data. I would suggest playing around a lot more in post processing in DSS before finishing in GIMP. No idea on the stars actually, but if you bump the saturation, you got clear separation of blue and yellow, so there is color in there to work with. There are some youtube videos out there to give you a hint of what to do even if I haven't found the definitive guide yet. I think you would benefit most of learning to take t-shirt flats as you have a heavy gradient/vignetting. Look at the part where he works with the histogram in this one for instance: Doug German also has some good stuff: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvLpugEDmDVQr1JDptAsbQg Let us know how you get along.
  22. VigdisVZ

    Hello from Sweden

    Hey Frost, good to have you around! We had a nice time at the Starbeque at Sandvreten.
  23. Different, in the most positive way. Great job.
  24. Thats really cool. I never seen it doen this way before. The colors are something else entirely. Question: did you mod your D5100 yourself or have someone do it? I am thinking about modding my D5100 when I aquite a new camera this month.
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