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Merlin66

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Everything posted by Merlin66

  1. Just fit a bit of Baader film over the finder and just use that?? That's what I do.......
  2. Yeah but, It's only one of the polarising elements you need (half of the assembly you show)....rotate the filter/ eyepiece/ camera to see if the reflections are being reduced.
  3. You coupon could try a polarizing filter in front of the camera. This may suppress the unwanted reflections. Seems to work well with some PST mods.
  4. Hmmmm. if you're not interested in obtaining "Solar Image of the day/ week/ year" then there are a few options available. For the past ten years the PST has been a relatively cheap option for visual solar work....It will show the prominences and the Ha filaments as well as being easy to use. The Lunt 50 when launched was as an alternative to the PST...... Double stacking and larger apertures is always great for solar - but at a cost which may be beyond the average amateur. Solar observing is unique - seeing the Ha features is absolutely amazing!!! If you can get this experience with a PST or Lunt 50 then think seriously about it.
  5. Jokes aside, this is a great thread. I've been imaging - cooled cameras, hypered cameras then into DSLR and cooled CCD's for over forty years. I was a little bemused when I started to see members wanting to use a phone camera for astronomy....a sign of the times.... BUT I have to say some of the results being obtained are very good! I reminds me of how amateur astro photos started in the sixties and shows great promise for the future. What about some comments on how to use the phone camera (better/ properly?) - I see they now have special attachment brackets to hold the camera to the eyepiece - are they really any good? How do you hold the camera still and yet have a third hand to press the shutter button? All in all, I'm very impressed with the results and hope to see this thread continue.
  6. Great review! I used the 12" meade on a HD wedge for a few years. It was fitted with both the Meade Crayford and the JMI (mirror move) focuser. I had a dual hand controller (from the MAPUG site design) which worked very well for me. Balancing was an issue, so I replaced the Dec nylon bearings with needle bearings and rigged up independent balancing on the Dec and RA. For spectroscopy it worked very well..... The larger spectroscopes didn't fit behind the forks, so in the end I changed to the C11 on an NEQ6pro. I'd say "when they are good, they are very very good, when they are bad they are a PITA"
  7. the failure mode highlighted only affects "solid" etalon designs like the Daystar instruments. The other air spaced designs - Coronado/ Lunt are unaffected. Moisture can and does affect the ITF filters......
  8. I'm a moderator on the Solar Chat site.... There appears to be a problem with the system, I've advised Stephen. we'll get back to you ASAP. Ken
  9. Keep trying, it should work. It the largest active solar forum on the web. If pain persists contact me and I'll help.
  10. I agree.... I'd put a bet on the collimating grub screws.
  11. I'd say definitely caused by the collimating grub screws - I've seen it on an older ED80. Visually you can check by pushing a star out of focus to show a bright circle, you should then the the "notches" in the edge. You can, by placing your finger in front of the edge of the objective determine that the notches match up with the radial position of the grub screws (rather than the spacers). Get the correct Allen key/ instrument screwdriver (depending on the telescope maker) and gently back off each grub screw on the front element by no more than 1/8 of a turn (or less). DO NOT tighten these screws - this could lead to permanent damage to the lens. Give the telescope time to recover.... and re-check with a star image. If pain persists then get someone (supplier/ experienced user) to carefully carry out further re-adjustments - of the grub screws on the front and rear elements. Remember any dramatic movement of the grub screws can/ will affect the overall collimation of the objective - that's why they are there!!!
  12. I lost the rubber feet years ago....they eventually crack and fall off. A solution is to buy some rubber stoppers used on kitchen chairs (or the smaller walking stick stoppers) and use them.......
  13. Chris, In all honesty if you want to progress in astronomy, you'll have to bite the bullet and get used to the EQ mounts. I understand your initial concerns, but believe me it all comes together with practise, and practise. Aligning the finder is best done during the day with the telescope pointing to a known distant object........
  14. +1 from me. SolarChat is the largest most active solar site in the world.
  15. Rich, Notwithstanding the concerns raised re possible "issues/problems" with EQMOD - I have and use the handcontroller connection at times....I can still use the handcontroller to give me RA/Dec movements. No issues, no drama (as yet!)
  16. Yes. I successfully use the ST-4 connection to guide ten minute subs on a C11 working at f10 with my NEQ6 mount. I use PHD2 or more recently AstroArt for guiding. No issues, no drama.
  17. Comes down to Personal preference. I use the ST-4 connection because I used ST-4 long before I used EQMod. Both work equally well.
  18. Here's my TS102 set-up.... The rear cell is interchangeable to allow the PST Stage 2 mod or the Baader Cool wedge to be fitted. I also have the original SM60 external etalon mounted on an ED80. The 100mm spectroheliograph is still in construction - maybe complete in the next month or so.......
  19. Peter, What can PS CC do that PaintShopPro can't do for you?
  20. Hmmm OK My central bolt is fixed in the pier... I then assemble the extension and "wind" it down hard using the BOA around it.... If you can jamb the central bolt/ knob/ between the tripod legs you could probably use the same method - or a BOA on each?.
  21. Are you applying the BOA to the extension tube??? There should be no interference with the tripod.....
  22. I've recently replaced the tripod on the NEQ6 with a pillar. This has a M12 x 1.75 central bolt. The extension just screws onto the bolt (with the bottom disk inverted) - the BOA pulls it up nice and tight! - I don't think you'll break an M12 bolt! Looks MUCH better than those "Owl Cage" attachments. IMHO the rubber is too soft, and when you tighten down hard it will just shear.......
  23. You can use a BOA wrench on the extension to get it even tighter on the middle bolt. I have heard of adding a fine emery paper pad/disk to the top of the tripod to prevent any unwanted movement.
  24. I use one of these on my NEQ6pro mount. The C11 and spectroscopes needs 4 counterweights, so there's a fair load up top. It works very well. No issues, no drama. (I'm about to set-up a permanent pier - it will have a M12 x1.75 centre bolt to take the extension (rather than having the complex?! Owl cage arrangement) Much neater and functional)
  25. Roger, I can't talk about the AZ-EQ mount... BUT I have been using EQMOD and CdC for the past few years (an NEQ6pro mount) and never found a problem syncing a selected star (in CdC). I then use an off-set to GOTO my target - usually a faint spectroscopic object. Don't know if this helps.....
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