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Merlin66

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Everything posted by Merlin66

  1. If you have access to a telescope and webcam, then I'd suggest seeking out double stars within your telescopes ability, AstroPlanner software is a good program which will allow you to make up ( and record) observing lists based on brightness and/ or separation. Florent Losse ( florent_losse(at)yahoo.fr) has a free mailware program which allows you to measure separations from images and do some analysis. I assume you've already read Paul Couteau's book " Observing Visual Double Stars".
  2. For Interest, Paul's actually coming over to the UK ( London Area) to visit friends and family early January, so I'll pass on your regards....
  3. I use the HEQ5Pro GOTO with AstroPlanner. You can access ALL double star catalogues available and set up an observing plan for the night as well as record your observations.
  4. You can go direct to the guide port on the mounting by using a Shoestring GPUSB adaptor on the laptop. http://www.store.shoestringastronomy.com/products_gp.htm
  5. Not exactly the same, but here's a shot of the Littrow ( after adding the safety bracket... long story and painfull!!!!!!). You can see the #1209 focusser, the 50/50 cube, guide eyepiece and the visual set-up with the 40mm on the spectroscope. ( The rear support plate was a "mod" to the top guide scope rail and has an array of M6 tapped holes which can be used to add support to almost anything) (click to enlarge)
  6. DON'T let those reviews put you off.... Just need patience a screwdriver and a small spanner.... Check out my link and you'll see the various stages of construction. Obviously any questions just ask!! or drop me a PM and I can take more photos for you. ( I'm NOT on commission with Argos, just think it's a very good solution!) http://ukastroimaging.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=40174.0
  7. Vince, Honestly there's no real challenge in building the tin shed. I put the Argos one together, myself, all up in 8 hours. The main thing is to read and re-read the instructions, lay everything out and full understand the sequence of assembly.
  8. It will work pretty well! I use the same set up when I use the Meade #1209 micro focuser. The overall length of the adaptors, camera etc will obviously be longer ( again!). Re: using a star diagonal... I use the 50/50 cube and mount the spectro parallel to the rear cell ( minimise over-hand and "droop)
  9. Won't swing through, but will still allow significant sky coverage!
  10. Drop me a PM... I have a tube for a 90mm objective...
  11. You could fit a 1.25" to T2 adaptor; that would get it into the OAG.......
  12. Depending on the required back focus the Baader micro focuser ( #2458125) might be a go. It has a 4mm travel with a T2 connection and 1.25" outlet. I use it on my spectroscope for "fine" tuning the camera position. Only takes up about 28mm.
  13. I've built two or three observatories with both metal run-off roofs and walls. Condensation shows that the heat has dissappated and that the metal work is as cold as the surroundings ergo no thermal seeing effects. That's one of the advantages!!!! The easy answer is to live with it and keep the maps, etc on a wooden desk/ shelf away from the walls. My 2c
  14. On the website there seems to be a difference in the software support; the Orion uses their own whereas the QHY5 is universal. I use mine with AstroArt etc, no problems. ( And I hate to admit it, much easier than the ST-4!!!!!)
  15. The QHY5 is a very good guide camera. It has the ST-4 port for direct communication with the guide port of your mount. Some say, because its a CMOS chip that it's not an sensitive as a CCD ( Atik 16ic for instance). For the money I think it's pretty cost effective. A DSI I or II are also very good, and an be found at reasonable prices second hand. I dumped the modded webcam... to much fiddle with the parallel control on the new laptops.
  16. Fitting the MJU to a telescope is a little difficult. Buying a cheap webcam ( where the lens can be removed) would be a better way to go. A webcam ( SPC900) and a 1.25" adaptor would allow you to image the moon and planets... always a good starting point.
  17. Merlin66

    Hello all

    Welcome on board!! You'll find we have the answer for everything ( 42, right?!) You're doing better than I; my first telescope was a 2" spectacle lens in a cardboard tube with a 1/2" magnifying glass as an eyepiece!! Some fantastic "first views"; Alcor and Mizar come to mind. Sometimes I wish I had just stayed with it!!! Would have saved me $$$$$$ as I built bigger and bigger telescopes!!
  18. I've got the Atik 16ic, DMK21 and various webcams. The DMK appears to be a better performer due to the faster frame rates than webcam ( same resolution but mono).
  19. My first thoughts are that collimation/ alignment are more "sensitive" at f 6.3 than at f10, but then I though what about alignment of the reducer... Try re-collimating with the reducer and see what the results are at f10???!!
  20. I'd get her to buy a good eyepiece and use CdC to control the scope!! I have The Sky V6 and end up still using CdC!!!!
  21. Jeff, Checking Doc G's notes on MAPUG, he gives 59mm as the " calculated distance for a reduction of 0.33".
  22. I use my X0.63 reducer with the #1209 micro focuser by using the Orion 2" to SCT prime focus adaptor. ( BTW this also allows me to use all the SCT flip mirrors etc etc on the ED80 etc) Jeff, The distance for the X0.33 is variable, the manual shows a 30mm spacer and a Pictor camera gives X0.33, and with the 1 1/4" spacer unit it give X0.3.
  23. Helen, Should be specified in the camera's manual. I have the old MX7c and the manual ( p12) gives 22mm as the "CCD to adaptor flange distance"
  24. It's from both the instruction manual issued for the Meade 0.63 reducer and various write-ups on the MAPUG support site. I can scan the instruction sheet for you. Drop me a PM.
  25. No calculation require, only some measurements. The distance is defined in the design of the reducer lenses and spacings to give " optimum" performance. The x63 reducer ideally should be positioned 110mm infront of the CCD chip. Depending on the type of scope you have, you made some adaptors to hold the reducer and spacer adaptors between the camera and the reducer. T2 spacers come in various lengths from 6mm to 40mm.
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