Marci

Adobe - If you have Photoshop CC 2018 (19.x) & earlier, Lightroom (1.x) or Lightroom Classic (2015.x) & earlier, stick with Mojave tops. Don’t upgrade to Catalina. These versions will never be patched to work with Catalina - Adobe REQUIRE you to have a valid subscription to more recent versions, all of which work fine with Catalina. An upgrade to Catalina may work for some CS6 onwards app (where the apps are already installed and functioning on an earlier version of MacOS), but you’ll be unable to clean-install these apps on a fresh install of Catalina as the installers are 32bit even tho the apps are 64bit. There are known glitches in CC versions prior to 20.x as it stands in Catalina betas that won’t be fixed (and Adobe have revoked all licenses for legit use of anything prior to these anyway cos they were naughty and illegally embedded Dolby technology without paying for it). See https://blog.conradchavez.com/2019/08/28/macos-10-15-catalina-will-adobe-software-work/. Anything CC2019 (20.x) onwards - ie: current versions available to CC subscribers - will work fine.

PixInsight - "The current versions 1.8.x of PixInsight are only available as 64-bit applications for all supported operating systems. Please note that no 32-bit versions will be released anymore. Note also that any existing 32-bit version will no longer be supported or updated." - should be nothing to worry about here if using 1.8.x or above.

APP - "APP runs on Linux (RPM & DEB), Windows & MacOS 64bits Operating Systems." implies it should be 64bit ready, but the APP chaps don’t go into much detail on sys requirements on their site unfortunately.

I’m presuming you’re talking Sidecar, which lets you use a modern generation iPad as an extension screen - massively different to TeamViewer / VNC remote control... Install Duet on the Mac from AppStore, and Duet on the iPad for the pre-Catalina equivalent - s’been around since iPad 4 days. Catalina has it builtin and not requiring a separate app is all...

However, you can set any Mac to create it’s own Adhoc WiFi network, and connect direct to it from iPad using ScreenSharing and VNC Client - no need for any WiFi router involvement. Click WiFi icon on Mac, and instead of joining a network, select "Create Network"... follow the process, then connect to that new network from iPad. Enable screen sharing on the Mac, install Mocha VNC on the iPad.

Erm... no.

All versions of PS can manipulate 8 & 16bit, since v3.x onwards (ie: pre CS1 days). All versions of Photoshop thru CS1 to CC2019 can manipulate 16bit images.

SOME functions & plugins cannot operate on 32BIT images, and image must be converted to 16bit first (such as curves). 

None of this has any bearing on the o/p’s issue however.

Enable ScreenSharing via System Preferences > Sharing. Use any VNC client on iPad. All Macs have had this builtin for 15+ years... no Internet Access required, just a local network.

Measure continuity between ground and each optocoupler. When you press RA- or RA+ in PHD, it should close the signal between the relevant optocoupler output and ground. ST4 is rock bottom basics equivalent of 4 push switches.

Synscan protocol REQUIRES connection to the Synscan controller. You can’t direct control the Virtuoso iirc.

Side note as I don’t think it’s been mentioned: if you’re having to run things as administrator you’re going to have issues. There’s no need to run or install anything as administrator. It just creates more problems than it solves as things NOT running as (v.loosely speaking) administrator generally can’t talk to things that are & vice-versa, and you end up creating default profiles & sockets that can’t be updated by non-admin users etc.

I use 3.65.5 (beta) without issue. See http://aptforum.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=2260 for changelogs from 3.65 thru to 3.65.5.

Anything above 3.65.1 has the expanded object list...

- Added extended Deep Sky Object Browser list with 18000+ objects (Thanks to Andrew Knight for compiling it!). There is check box to switch between the short and the extended list

The _next_ release (3.65.6) should feature full INDIgo integration.

They've expanded APT with a further 18000 objects in latest betas... just tick the "show expanded object list" checkbox in lower left of the Objects browser pane if you're a paid-up user with access to the beta versions. Without it ticked you'll just get "the usuals".

*ting* https://wakefieldastronomysociety.co.uk

Nope - tis the same thing... Photoshop can operate in LAB color space and split into Lightness, A (Magenta/Green), B (Blue/Yellow).

Should be under Edit > Convert to Profile > LAB Color (or something like that iirc - word of warning: do this on a finished flattened image, as it'll flatten it automatically as part of the conversion). Usually I do this on a copy of the final component images, to pick up the L layer, and then drop it on top layer back in my regular RGB composite and set layer blending to Luminance.

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Hmm... an underdriven TEC may be more efficient, but getting a different wattage at lower amps and same voltage?

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But a very common mistake is to use a more powerful TEC than required - this just reduces efficiency.

Sorry - I worded badly... have a look at https://www.overclock.net/forum/62-peltiers-tec/121488-testing-undervolt-tec-air-cooled-3.html#post1319096 

The original post they refer to there (which originally contained much more data for a wide range of manufacturers, and the validated test rig etc) over on HardwareAsylum looks to have been lost (altho I’m 90% certain the original thread was actually on procooling.com a few years prior - it _was_ 20yrs ago... my memory gets hazy).

Insulating all exposed coldplate will also increase efficiency - you'll be losing a good chunk of cooling power to the air. Can improve efficiency further by finding a higher wattage/voltage etc and under powering it - look to PC TEC cooling forum archives for spreadsheets of make/model testing - getting you same wattage but for lower ampage at 12v = same cooling for less power consumption... amp-load saving can be dramatic

Hmmm - wherever the stars-at-night wordpress plugin pulls it from on our astro soc’s webpage: https://wakefieldastronomysociety.co.uk/sky-status/

EDIT: Which appears to be via the Heavens-above REST API...

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• Planetary, ISS and Iridium Flare tables are obtained by sending GET requests to: http://heavens-above.com (HTTP API used with permission)

18 hours ago, Redscouse said:

Forgive my stupidity; Does that mean you don't use PHD2 at all? IE: APT does it all, imaging plans, guiding etc?

APT and BYE are just different flavours of imaging control software with pretty much similar feature-set. Both link to PHD2 for guiding.

Can’t help with BYE and PHD2 - I use APT, which just sees it and connects to it and dithers. Presume BYE will do the same if PHD2 is running before BYE is launched.

If you’re using ST4 from camera to mount, just select "On Camera" as the mount. Ignore aux mount. ST4 is a standardised protocol that isn’t dependant on mount-specific drivers.
Disabling Dec: https://openphdguiding.org/man-dev/Advanced_settings.htm#Algorithms_Tab and set Declination dropdown to 'none'.

A typical night in the back garden... Shed's set up as a warm room. Those are 40' conifers (dark ones) completely obscuring north, and more obscuring NW (the lighter ones to the right) - I learnt to drift align early on in my Astro adventures...

On 18/11/2017 at 10:52, sp5xsb said:

Marci,

I tried several times to install your software on Raspberry Pi 3 model B.
For some time, Node-Red has been installed as part of Jessie's system. Some software packages like "wiring-pi" or npm over the last year have been
altered by the authors.
For this reason, despite several attempts I have not been able to install the software.
I also tried two other Raspi models, 1 B+ and Zero.
Last year was too many subtle changes to the software components.

Can you post a working image of the software?

In my case, I need a image for the Raspi 3 B.
I have a Celestron 130 SLT with a damaged motor plate.

I will be very obliged.

Piotrek, sp5xsb
 

And that’s why I use Jessie LITE, not Jessie. With Jessie LITE, everything works as per above (still).

And I never got the encoders hooked up - blew them all up... not had chance to get back to it since.

Just looks like a Celestron Nexstar+ LCM on steroids...!

I had similar issues - had to introduce a 4.5 multiplier into the code, so when driver sends 10000, the stepper moves 45000, which is required for full range of travel in my case.

To enable ssh on clean install of Raspbian lite, see https://dirtyastro.com/2016/12/10/project-retrofitted-goto-dob-pt3/

To create a file... 

pico [nameoffile]

Type or paste in content, ctrl+o to save, ctrl+x to exit

Hmmm - using the new Directshow pipeline in 2.10, I’ve lost 520fps from my camera... if I switch to original DirectShow pipeline and restart, I’m back up to 500-600fps. Switch to new SharpCap pipeline (no other settings changed) and I’m immediately dropped down to 30fps or less. (Opticstar PL131M)

wget https://sourceforge.net/projects/astroberry/files/Astroberry/Astroberry 1.0.4/indi-astroberry_1.0.4-1_armhf.deb/download?use_mirror=heanet

and then, because I suspect it will store the file as 'download?use_mirror=heanet', you'll need to move it to the correct name...

mv ~/download?use_mirror=heanet ~/indi-astroberry_1.0.4-1_armhf.deb && sudo dpkg -i ~/indi-astroberry_1.0.4-1_armhf.deb

Your update not working looks to be because that Pi cannot access the internet... what happens when you attempt to ping www.google.co.uk or ping www.bbc.co.uk ?

http://archive.raspberrypi.org is working fine for me, so I'd say it's an issue local to that particular Pi and it's network settings.

Re: Libindi needing upgrading on it... just download the latest libindi by hand and reinstall by hand as you did the other day. I don't think apt-get would actually pick it up to update it as it wasn't installed with apt-get to begin with.

Astroberry PiFace is an updated Astroberry release specifically for the PiFace HAT (altho if memory serves, the docs don't say which specific PiFace HAT, and it'll only work with the right one). If you don't have this, I'm not sure it would work anyways. Better to stick to the original Astroberry release.

What make & model EFW?

Is it listed when you run lsusb from commandline?