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rofus

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About rofus

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  1. Hello and Happy New Year! Thanks a lot for all your replies...it seems indeed everyone has a different idea about what's the problem..and I honestly am not sure if it's worth another repair...it could be easily in the region of several hundreds. And last time it was at repair centre, they did not 'see' any problem because they don't test/do flats or that stretched images, so unless they know about astro they don't see the problem, as it's indeed only apparent on stretched images.. The original Canon repair service didn't reply to my enquiry, and the modder didn't as well...it seems one of those things no one want to deal with. I'm tempted to keep it and 'fix it' when to apparent in post processing as I did it till now (sometimes quite painful but in a way or another can be done..)
  2. Hi William thanks your explanation makes a lot of sense. When the guy did the mod, he said that after reassembling everything the camera was not turning on anymore, so he had to send it to Canon and they had to fix/replace the main board. The guy who did the mod still operates but doesn't reply as with me he had problems with months of delays, money problems, and eventually he said the 6D is too complicated so he doesn't work on them anymore. I suppose I could contact the centre that actually fixed the camera after the mod and ask them..
  3. Actually what you see on the flat is obviously a very stretched flat...I always take accurate flats following all common procedures...and actually they always worked wonderfully (also on my Nikon D750)....I just think is not something a flat can really correct because is way too "spread" and different? Any suggestion about what I could try with flats taken in a different way? As I said..it seems no one knows or ever saw something like that...I honestly struggle understanding this...
  4. Julian: I always use only RAW, and I actually have Magic Lantern installed. How did you solve those problems? Any particular setting? Michael: I tried that and the banding is still there, and at the time I also tried changing ISO without any luck...to me somehow it doesn't seem to be anything related to camera processing as that's always RAW...
  5. Yeah I wrote him again, as he never replied to my last email...eventually he did a job I feel he wasn't completely confident with, something broke (electronic part), took months to have it repaired from Canon and I think he lost some money on it, so I'm not holding my hopes...but I wrote again, because eventually I got the camera. I highly doubt he wants to do the whole disassembling again considering he then stopped doing 6D mods..so this is why I'd rather first understand what it is before committing to anything like that...because then to test it you have no other option than reassembling and disassembling again..seems a never ending process to me. And anyway weird that actually no one else has ever had that kind of problem...
  6. Hi thanks a lot for your reply. Actually I just checked the emails exchange with Andy Ellis (Astronomiser), who did the mod, and there was no replacement: he actually just removed the second filter, as he says the replacement (Baader mod) would cause reflections and is not recommended. So there's just one glass, not two...I also tried asking him at the time, but he didn't reply to my last enquiry when I did all the tests and was still there (and it wasn't there before the mod). Apart from that the system works perfectly..but that is a big problem on faint objects. Do you think is the first glass (the only one remained) touching the sensor? Andy had problems with my 6D, had to have it repaired after his mod because something went wrong, and he said he could not reproduce the problem (but he didn't try a full session or stretching the single shot to see the patterns emerge). I'm actually a bit desperate with it as is obviously expensive and I cannot always go around the problem just pushing back the black in the background...
  7. Thanks, yeah no those are different bandings, both PS actions and PI actions deal with the other and more well known vertical banding of Canon sensors. This is something very different and quite peculiar...that's why I'm asking here hoping that someone has previously seen something like that...as I cannot find someone with a similar problem...!
  8. Hi all I have a weird problem on my Canon 6D astro modded (filter removed and changed with clear glass by a professional not myself and done some time ago). Basically as you can see from attachment (light stack and flat both stretched), I have some weird horizontal/oblique banding. I use darks and bias and flats, and as you can see is both on lights and flats (if I star align my lights without using any flat/dark/bias is there anyway). The banding happens in any condition...freezing winter or hot summer, on scopes or lens, actually even without any lens in front. Seems to be always the same. I tried as well cleaning the sensor but is not the problem. I also tried using different batteries or the AC adaptor, same result. Also with SD or direct download via USB, and even in different cities/places! Basically I have no idea what it is, what causes it, and how to get rid of it...flats don't work...is very subtle, and for faint objects/nebulosity if I need to really get all the data, it creeps out in final images and being 'coloured' (as you can see from the light) is almost impossible to eliminate. Does anyone have any idea what causes that thing, what actually is, and possibly how I can solve it?
  9. Thanks James, I can only imagine how painful is the whole process! As I said if I can be useful for some testing (ASI120MM on Yosemite and latest Macbook Retina) please let me know and I will happily test for you (I did some debug in the past for SGP, BYN and Digicamcontrol and their problems with Nikon cameras and virtual machines).
  10. Hi James, I just bought an ASI120mm (so the usb2), but for some reason I cannot get it to work with oacapture (I use Yosemite always updated to latest version). I choose it as I read it was working on Mac, but for some reason I see on ASI forum that others have problems sometimes? It seems the software can see it, but cannot get any preview or record any frame from it. I tried as a test also downloading any of the previous versions of oacapture, and they just crash when I connect the camera. I also tried the firmware update from ZWO website, and loading the normal and 'compatible' framework did not do any difference. Do you have any idea? Do you have a debug version where I can see and help understanding where is the problem? I have some experience as developer and might help if needed Thanks for the fantastic work you've done with Oacapture!
  11. Hey Olly! Well the bashing for refractors from me is just about few things: they don't do (unless mods) star spikes, they're somehow 'cold' and 'too precise' (not artistic?), and that to have an equally perfect colours it costs way too much (money and weight), and if you add to that aperture (indeed RC is partially obstructed I know but still) and focal length, they're simply different kind of scopes and images obtainable. Said that, I love your pic! So much detail and nice and sharp wide view! I will get soon an ED80 Gold Tube with its native 0.85x reducer to do widefield (the RC8 goes down to around 1100mm F/5 (ish) with the CCDT67). I'll not be able to pair your one, but I hope to get some decent widefields. For me simply the Ritchey Chretien and the unique 'character' of images coming out from it just got me...and the work/knowledge needed to make it work properly forces you to know the scope inside out to the point of assembling and disassembling it all, it makes me feel it's more uniquely mine. Try the scope if you can, I'm sure you'll love it and you would produce amazing images from it considering your experience
  12. Indeed I agree! Did not have the tilt adapter on the RC6 and it was impossible to get a perfect collimation...now I have it and laser collimation get the scope 80% there, the last damn 15% (not dare to say 20%!) with star test and star field. I honestly think they should sell those RC always with Glatter, Flattener and Tilt adapter, without those (in particular the last two) you can imagine only with small(ish) cameras.
  13. It is an absolute beauty...I never was a big fan of refractors for DSO, while the perfect colours and free of any aberration of the 8RC is just amazing (not talking about great focal length that can be easily reduced with the great CCDT67). And I'm a big lover of the star spikes..best thing I ever did selling all my refractors and old equipment...this RC8 and the ED80+0.85 reducer for widefield) is all I need Love your images, indeed I've seen only stunning images from this scope..once you get it right, that indeed I admit is a painful process that more than once almost won over me (collimating it for a full frame DSLR was a pain).
  14. Hi all, after selling all my refractors to move to more serious RC one, about two months spent on a AT6RC and learning the hard way towards collimation with a full frame DSLR chip (35.9mm x 24mm), Glatter Laser and Astro Tech 2" 1x Field Flattener were the tools that eventually lead me to be able to use 95% of my full frame 24mpx Nikon (!). So I got the 8" bigger brother, and last night after a quick setup (still not 100% perfect) first light on a nice core of M31. Was supposed to be just a test, 4 subs of 300s at 800iso, not perfect guiding, but the result is so good for a quick test that I did a quick production in Pixinsight (just bias without darks/flats) and the result is by far the best test I ever did with any new scope (this is a 25% zoom in...is a 6k+ pixels wide image) An amazing scope, requiring a lot of work but once you get the experience/skills/tools there's no comparison with anything costing even 4 times or more I think. Going to do soon a proper session for lovely Andromeda.
  15. As a last note on this topic, for future reference for others. Chasing another problem I got after collimation (star trails in some positions of the sky although guiding was good), in the end turned up to be another case of primary mirror moving in its cell!Following this http://deepspaceplace.com/gso8rcpointing.php and this very useful topic with images (confirmation of previous doc) http://www.cloudynights.com/topic/486239-at6rc-mirror-flopyes-mirror-flop/ , I disassembled the scope and the same exact thing happened: shaking the cell, lightly, the mirror was moving and rocking inside!I followed that procedure unscrewing baffle, loosening small locking screws, tightened up a bit the o ring till mirror was firm, all back to full scope mounted. Collimation was only slightly out, but I did it again suspecting that the mirror could also influenced my collimation problems.And I NOW SOLVED ALL PROBLEMS. Collimation just fine adjusting secondary makes much more visible and constant results (no surprise there's no mirror moving!), perfect tracking also with a small 9x50 finderguider. Below CCD Inspector of my full frame cropped down to APS-C (non full frame) DSLR sensor...for my camera anyway a 4000+ pixels wide picture...basically an almost completely flat field without using any other accessory or focuser, just with collimation after fixing the primary mirror:So my suggestion is to know that basically ALL those RC scopes have primary a bit loose, probably for transportation, and this needs to be addressed for any precision work (long exposures DSO) to be done on this scope. It looks spooky with is VERY simple, so is another step I recommend.Something else I suggest is to be sure that, after collimating primary, you tighten up (not too much but firmly) the locking screws of the primary (that is the bigger silver one), to be sure primary doesn't move anyway (with the whole cell in this case!). For reference, in the end for collimation I suggest using Glatter inside, and then this for star test..it worked for me reliably time after time: http://deepspaceplace.com/gso8rccollimate.phpThat's it, it takes some time but the quality of this scope is unbelievable, you can get a perfectly flat field and 100% correct colours for ridiculous price..and a lot of work, good learning.Waiting now for the field flattener to use even more field on my full frame at scope native focal length, and then also waiting for the CCDT67 reducer to have it down to f/6 900mm when I want a faster and wider field!
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