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Everything posted by edjrgibbs

  1. AZ GTi with Raspberry Pi4 running Astroberry I thought it might be useful to post this how-to given that I've spent the last week banging my head against a brick wall trying to get my RP4 to connect to my New AZ GTi scope. The idea was to develop a small, portable goto setup that could platesolve and guide. I’ve yet to image with the setup but here’s my quick guide to wirelessly connecting the AZ GTI and win 10 laptop to the Astroberry hotspot to run a complete wireless imaging system. Ø Set up the AZ GTI with equatorial mode firmware o Go to http://www.skywatcher.com/download/software/ o Download two files under ‘Motor controllers’: § Windows program: Motor Controller Firmware Loader - WiFi, Version 1.74 § Firmware: AZGTi Mount, Right Arm, AZ/EQ Dual Mode, Version 3.26 o And this under ‘Synscan App’ § Windows program: SynScan Pro App, Version 1.19.12 o Connect your laptop/computer wifi to the mount’s hotspot (“SynScan_xxxx”) o Unzip the first two files and follow the instructions in the text document in the loader folder. Ø Connecting Az GTI to Astroberry o Unzip the Synscan app file and double click ‘SynScanPro.exe’ o Click connect o Select EQ mode o Go to ‘settings’ and then ‘synscan wifi’ o Turn station mode on and set the following settings: § SSID – astroberry § Password – astroberry § Turn off DHCP § Assign a fixed IP address of § Save settings o Exit app o Turn the Az GTi off o Turn pi on o Turn AZ GTI on Ø Connect laptop to pi and set up KStars/EKOS to connect to the Az GTI o Use laptop/desktop to connect to the ‘astroberry’ hotspot o Use a web browser to go to http://astroberry.local/ o Login using password ‘astroberry’ o Open KStars o Click ‘toggle Ekos’ (little dome icon) § Either set up a new profile with your equipment or edit the profile, you can use ‘CCD Simulator’ if you don’t want to connect your camera at this point § For the mount select ‘EQMod Mount’ NOT Az GTI § Click save § Click the start button § Select EqMod mount tab and enter the following details under the ‘connection’ tab · Server o Address – o Port – 11880 o Click ‘Set’ · Connection type o UDP § Go back to the ‘main control’ tab and click connect. Everything should light up green and connect. § Test by closing that window going to the mount tab in Ekos, selecting AI Mount Control and issuing a coto command for an object. The mount should slew to that object. Hope this helps someone.
  2. Thanks, will give the balance a shot and check cables etc
  3. I'm not 100% sure whether its in RA or Dec to be honest. I use Stellarium and Stellariumscope to slew and star align then guide with PHD2 and use APT to image. In PHD 2 the image drifts to the right rapidly straight after slew. A few reverse pulses on the gamepad stop the drift. Balancing issue maybe?
  4. Thanks, the problem is it drifts rapidly and completely off target...
  5. Hopefully someone can help. When I slew my NEQ6 it keeps drifting until i apply a couple of reverse pulses on the controller. I'm using it via an eqdir cable to my computer. Any ideas? Could this be a backlash issue?
  6. It was about 2 hours of 5 min exposures with darks and bias frames stacked in Siril. I used an Altair triband filter on the QHY183c.
  7. First light. Loving this lens already! QHY183c. with Altair Triband filter.
  8. Looking for some advice. I'm currently imaging with a QHY183c and Equinox 66. Would an Evostar Ed72 provide any noticeable improvement? The Equinox 66 is FPL51 glass I think but I can't find any info on the ED72. Thanks
  9. So, got to the bottom of the problem but unfortunately no solution. I was using a newer version of APT on my main computer. I updated on the obsy pc and its cropping the pics slightly. All settings exactly the same. I'm none the wiser why its doing this but apart from having to reshoot all of my calibration files its not a huge issue. Does make multi session stacking problematic though as I can't use any of the old data.
  10. Probably bortle 5. Sounds like the conditions weren't the best... Just need some clear skies to retry!
  11. Unfortunately due to limited imaging time. I took the darks the following day.
  12. Thats what I thought. Cooler was definitely running. Fits header says Image #1 SIMPLE = T / file does conform to FITS standard BITPIX = 16 / number of bits per data pixel NAXIS = 2 / number of data axes NAXIS1 = 4656 / length of data axis 1 NAXIS2 = 3522 / length of data axis 2 EXTEND = T / FITS dataset may contain extensions COMMENT FITS (Flexible Image Transport System) format is defined in 'Astronomy COMMENT and Astrophysics', volume 376, page 359; bibcode: 2001A&A...376..359H BZERO = 32768 / offset data range to that of unsigned short BSCALE = 1 / default scaling factor OBJECT = 'M82 ' / The name of Object Imaged INSTRUME= 'QHYCCDCameras' / The model Camera used DATE-OBS= '2020-10-09T20:18:27' / The UTC date and time at the start of the expo EXPTIME = 300. / The total exposure time in seconds XPIXSZ = 3.8 / Pixel width in microns (after binning) YPIXSZ = 3.8 / Pixel height in microns (after binning) XBINNING= 1 / Binning factor in width YBINNING= 1 / Binning factor in height XORGSUBF= 0 / Sub frame X position YORGSUBF= 0 / Sub frame Y position EGAIN = 1. / Electronic gain in e-/ADU FOCALLEN= 1000 / Focal Length of the Telescope in mm JD = 2459132.34966435 / Julian Date SWCREATE= 'Astro Photography Tool - APT v.3.33' / Imaging software SBSTDVER= 'SBFITSEXT Version 1.0' / Standard version SNAPSHOT= 1 / Number of images combined SET-TEMP= -20. / The setpoint of the cooling in C IMAGETYP= 'Light Frame' / The type of image GAIN = 120 / The gain set (if supported)
  13. Both these photos were taken at -20 on a QHY163c and QHY183c respectively. Stacked with darks. Is the level of noise normal? Details - QHY183c @ -20 degrees, 20 lights at 300s each, 44 darks 300s each, stacked Details - QHY163c @ -20 degrees, 10 lights at 300s each, 20 darks 300s each, stacked in Siril
  14. Looking for some help. I've recently got a QHY183c and managed to get an imaging run in yesterday. I then took 2 hours of darks today on a different computer but can't stack the darks with the lights as they are slightly different sized images. Any ideas? Lights are 5544 x 3692 and darks are 5544 x 3684....
  15. Hi Looking for some advice. I'm considering buy one of the following: - Altair triband filter - Altair quadband filter - Optolong L-eNhance dual band filter What are the pro's and con's of each and how good are they at filtering out moonglow? I'd be using it with a QHY163c OSC camera. Thanks
  16. Unfortunately not. I basically built the frame, attached it to the removed rood section, put the castors on and then aligned the aluminium runners when it was put on.
  17. Phase two now finally complete. New baby though so not much imaging in the near future...
  18. Hi Dave I think this is probably the best/only option short of paperclips which i'm not keen on. Seems odd to sell an adaptor for £90 that can't be used on most current lenses.
  19. Thanks but it doesn't solve the issue. Unfortunately Nikon lenses basically close to their min aperture when taken off the body so f16 on a nikon 50mm afs.
  20. Unfortunately it doesn't work... Defaults to min aperture on taking the lens off.
  21. Thanks but the same issue with G lenses. There's no way to change the aperture
  22. Thanks Dave. It seems odd to sell an adapter that looks nice but is totally non-functional. I cant really see the benefits of imaging at f16-22...
  23. Is this from personal experience with a Geoptik adaptor and Nikon G lens? There are conflicting accounts on the internet some of which say the lens defaults to max aperture when the camera is turned off... Thanks
  24. Looking for some advice. I'm interested in a CCD widefield setup for my AstroTrac. I've got a Nikon DSLR thus want to use my Nikon glass coupled with my QHY163c. If I got a Geoptik Nikon adapter though (https://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/geoptik-nikon-slr-lens-ccd-adaptor.html) how do you set the aperture on a G lens with no aperture ring? Thanks
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