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About mostschaedel

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  1. Hi Alfredo! You are right there are 2 influences for the starshape with Hyperstar. First straight cabling, Second the silhoutte of the camera. The solution for cabling you have seen already. The solution for the camershape: The silhoutte of the camera can be made invisible by cutting a ring of black paper and place it around the hyperstar on the corrector plate. The outside diameter of the ring has to cover all parts of the DSLR silhouette. The inside diameter of the black paper ring has to fit over the Hyperstar border. No morphology needed you will get nice small round stars already on the RAWs. Gerald
  2. Hi Alfredo! Your image is very very deep and colourful!! Especially as you use a DSLR and such short exposures. As i am also a Hyperstar user and user of PixInsight let me add some comments about the form of the stars in your image. You can create perfect round stars without spikes if you cover the shadow of the DSLR with a ringmask around the hyperstar and dont run the cables straight over the corrector plate - instead run them in a perfect semicircle over the correctorplate. For more details have a look on my homepage where you can find another way to get spikeless perfect round stars when using Hyperstar. http://www.werbeagen..._hyperstar.html Gerald
  3. Hi, i am using a G41 since 6 years. Bought it directly in Hungary from the manufacturer. Works nice with my SBIG STV autoguider. Images from the mount, and deep sky images i made with this mount you find on: http://www.werbeagentur.org/oldwexi/ Personally i would rate the G41 better than the Losmandy G11 but not as good as the AP1200. The Pulsar handcontroller with the joystick is easy to use and has good functionality, but the design will not win a price for looking good... Dont hesitate to contact my via E-mail if you have detailed questions. Gerald
  4. Hi Mike! Thanks for your great raw images. Tried the processing with Astroart and Photoshop. Astroart was used to tune the histogramm of each channel, to remove the gradient and to improve the star colors. Photoshop was used to combine the L and HA with the RGB, Tried to get a few of the many small galaxies and faint stars visible. Its still not the optimum will try for a better version. Will take time.
  5. Hi Helen! Had many 300D`s in my hand. seven out of 10 were not usable because of high thermal noise. (This underscores Mikes theory...) The quality of DSLRs in those days differed much within the models. Since then i only buy a DSLR when i can test it personally. Outside tests only show the quality of this tested camera but not of that one you will buy. However, it must must be really bad luck to get a 1000s or 450D which is not better than the 300D from thermal and readout noise point of view. Anyhow no matter what Canon DSLR you use the model is not the key for getting good images.
  6. Hi Roger! When i tested the Meade reducer it showed a very severe vignetting. Therefore i was very disappointed. When i look at your images i cant see this kind of vignetting. Do you use flat fields to remove the vignetting of the reducer? Are the images you show cropped? Or is your reducer doing only minimal vignetting? Gerald P.S.: Sorry to all for the "naughty" word. This was not my intention, i thought i dont know naughty words. My english needs to be polished...
  7. Hi Reggie!I am using the highest ISO Speed for focusing with the Laptop and DSLRFocus. The focusing is done on a dim star of the final view in the center which gives a high curve for the FWHM value. Usually around 15 seconds exposure per checking. Liveview is also good for getting fast very near to the optimum focus but it is a visual check and therefore precision depends on your eyes. The software delivers curves and values for more precise focusing. DSLRFocus is used for the older Canon DSLRs, Imageplus for the newer ones.
  8. Hi Space Hopper! A mask gets you much faster near to the best focus position than anything else. But not always does it help to find the best focus position. A software like ImagePlus, DSLRFocus, Maxim DL etc which analyzes the dim star on pixel level gets you into perfect focus. Everything you estimate with your eyes on the screen is less precise than focusing with star analyzing software on pixel level.
  9. Hi Gary! My personal rule for exposures of Deep Sky Object is to expose as long as possible AND produce as many images as possible. But, if your object is a bright one, the 120 x 30 sec will give better results than the 60 x 60 sec. If your object is a very faint one it will not be detected on the 120 x 30 second images. Generally i think the 60x60 would be better. Much better would be 120x60sec.
  10. Hi Rog! You have a very beautiful :cool:selection of Deep Sky images on your homepage. Are some of them made by using the F6.3 reducer? If yes, then i think i had bad luck:icon_scratch: with my version of the reducer.
  11. Hi Blinky! I have tested the Meade and Celestron F6.3 reducers personally. In my personal opinion each of them this is a piece of rubbish! Would not spend a dime on them. They were built and sold for SCT`s and not refractors. They bring horrible vignetting. With the WO FF II i have no experience. Edited by Whippy because of naughty words!
  12. Hi Space Hopper! This is not an issue of Software, or your C8, or JPEG versus RAW, etc... The images are simply FAR out of FOCUS. The only way to solve the issue in the future is - take your time to focus properly, after shooting of the first image check the focus carefully, again and again. The ED images were better to work with because they do not have the black center if you are out of focus. SCT images out of focus do have a black disk in the middle.So the software cannot find the middle of the star for registering and stacking. Gerald
  13. Hi Ant! An excellent capture of the very challenging thin Venus crescent! Gerald
  14. Andy, there is no problem to use the 10D for hours in freezing temperatures outside. I am doing this with my 10D for many years/winters now. out of my experience it works fine down to -20 Celsius. Going indoors with the 10D at the end of the session, i never set any precaution actions. Maybe you feel better if you put it in a bag when going inside, i had never any problem with not doing that.
  15. LRGB makes only sense if you want to image galaxies, reflection nebulas and star clusters. For emission nebulae LRGB is the wrong approach. It kills the colour. ImagePlus, Maxim DL and Astroart can help to combine the RGB from the colour camera to the Luminance of the Mono CCD.
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