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About papamidnight

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    Astronomy, Meditation, Psychology, Physics, Music....
  • Location
    GA, USA
  1. Thanks for the help guys. The image quality is much better with only the white light fliter. The h-alpha and continuum 1.25 doesn't add anything to the detail from what I can tell. The h-alpha I was using is 7nm. I did stop the image down 1.5 from what looked right on the LCD whie recording which seems to have helped too. This is just a front ND filter: How do I get ride of those eyepiece flare like circles? This was an orion 9mm plossul.
  2. Great Discussion-learning a lot! I will post a video of everything (minus a dedicated solar scope) I have tried to show the different approaches in a few weeks.
  3. Will are refractor truly provide a better image than say my 102mm MAK? What differences might I see? Thanks!
  4. Thanks for the replies. I was able to get sunspots yesterday (and a nice tan) with just the front ND style film filter. The sun showed no spots today for me to compare. I did reduce the exposure time a lot..to the point I couldn't see the footage as it was recording. The clip above was middle of the exposure range. The continuum filter and the h-alpha just don't add detail from what I can tell, they seem to saturate the image into a blob of coherent color. I'll read the mentioned blog tonight and further talk myself into buying a solar scope. Appreciate it!
  5. Hi Freddie and Keith. Sounds like these filters just won't help with detail on an SCT. The front filter is a Baader 5ml density -I am waiting on a kendrick photographic film version. I don't think the issue is the front filter since there is enough light and the edge is sharp. Looks like a PST might be in my future. Thanks!
  6. Is it possible to get surface detail of the sun using a standard OTA with front solar filter and eyepiece filters such as h-alpha, continuum etc? I am not having any success and have tried both the above. OTA is 6" and I am using a Sony Nex 5 camera. There seems to be enough light to image except when stacking these filters, but even when used alone the image is just all red or all green with zero surface detail or prominences etc. Please see brief video here: It looks the same under higher power as well-just a solid uniform green or red. Thank you for any thoughts! Best, ~S
  7. I have an old Great Polaris and am hoping someone else has had this issue and can make a suggestion-not that I am wishing troubles on anyone mind you I have the synscan upgrade kit (EQ5) and see that my mount has plastic gears and the kit has brass (and of a different tooth size as well). Any advice for changing out these plastic gears? Does the entire worm gear need to be changed or just the outer gear. Thanks!
  8. Thanks! It's a shame there are so many freaking adapters in this hobby Best, ~S
  9. I'm new to astronomy and am using a sony nex DSLR and a 10" Meade LX50 SCT. I have a 2" T adapter but it doesn't have a means of inserting a barlow or eyepiece..so I bought a tube that has the the insert for such things. It works fine for 1.25 eyepieces but I can't get my barlow in it and I dislike that it chokes the light down to 1.25. Could someone kindly suggest a T adapter and or barlow that I can use with what I assume would be 2" eyepieces/barlows as inserts into the t adapter. If you happen to have a picture or diagram of a good SCT DSLR setup using eyepieces and or barlows for planetary observation you would be my hero. I attached a picture of my screwball setup. Thanks! ~Scott
  10. Thanks all, excellent advice! I went ahead and hooked up the goto and since one of the clutch pads was missing I made one from a brass air line stopper plug modeling it after the pad I did have; it came out nearly perfect and seems to work fine. Good news is the mount seems to be moving perfectly. It makes almost zero noise except for the high pitch servos. Bad news is I didn't realize the old spacer washers inside were made of an inferior plastic and so prone to breaking down, since mine looked OK I reused them. I'm going to take it back apart today and use new delrin spacers and then enjoy it tonight since we finally have some clear skies. Hopefully my old 10" LX50 and orion shorty guide scope will ride on top without a problem
  11. Hi John, It is the black one with the control box you mention. I will check it out as you recommend-Thank you. I was expecting to see some motion at 16x. I have the synscan upgrade kit but wanted to test the re-lube with the old motors in case something went wrong. Best, ~S
  12. Oh, thank you... I was thinking these locked the axis and prevented movement. This is my first mount -not that you couldn't tell I installed them and engaged them and unfortunantly it still isn't moving under the motors-though the motors do appear to be moving the worm drives for both axis. Any other ideas? Best, ~S
  13. I recently purchased an EQ6 that is about 11 years old. I rebuilt it using the astrobaby guide with superlube and everything went back together in good clean order. I tested it using the original motors and controller and the motors spin but the mount is not moving in either axis-at all. I took off the axis locks for testing so it isn't binding there. I can turn both axis by hand with what I am assuming is around 5lbs of force. I can see the gear shaft turning for both axis when I remove the bearing cover plates so I am a bit stumped. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks!
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