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Live_Steam_Mad

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About Live_Steam_Mad

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    St.Helens, Merseyside, England
  1. There's no silver in the blue filter. Lunt confirmed a while back that the blue filter is Schott BG38 Blue Glass. There is no coating on either side of the blue filter. The thickness of it determines the transmission at 656.28nm, the transmission is quite low already. The glass appears to be chemically unstable (in some conditions?). It's Meade who use ITF filters with Silver as the middle layer. The thread holding the filter is tapped at an angle to prevent filter reflections. One f our local Astro club members has a B600 with way higher transmission than either of my two B600's. Regards, Alistair G.
  2. Hello Kev. When I try to follow the 1st link to your mod ( http://www.photosbykev.co.uk/wordpress/2011/11/29/pst-modifications/ ) it says "Oops! That page can’t be found." on your website / blog. Any chance you could fix this please as I'd love to take a look at the mod. Best Regards, Alistair G.
  3. Have you got any pictures of or links to information on your 90mm refractor / Lunt 50 Etalon setup? I have Lunt 50 and LS50C Double stack but there doesn't seem to be any adapter available to mount the LS50C on any refractor (although the LS50FHa does have adapters available). Regards, Alistair G.
  4. I disagree strongly that the quality of the views visually on double stars depends on the eyesight of the observer. I have much worse eyesight than most people with 3.75 diopters of Astigmatism in my observing eye and I see horrid Astigmatism at low power with my spectacles ON, my glasses do not correct fully at a 6mm Exit Pupil. The out of focus oval diffraction pattern's direction (axis) moves with my head, so the Astig. is in my own eyes. However, at high magnifications (e.g. 333x in the 7" Mak, giving about 0.5mm Exit pupil), I see no aberration due to my own eyes, the aberrations are coming from my scope's optics (8" Newt or C11 or 7" Mak) at this size of Exit Pupil. My moderate Long sightedness does not matter, since I am wearing glasses that compensate for that. My eyesight does not change the fact that my C11 is strongly overcorrected and no amount of collimation will ever alter it. The Ronchi lines bowing would be seen by anyone else, as would the differences between the Star images compared to the 7" Mak, at this Exit Pupil. It is the problem of my C11's optics not my eyesight. Once upon a time Takahashi made SCT's, as did Opticon https://www.cloudynights.com/articles/cat/user-reviews/telescopes/schmidt-cassegrains-scts/opticon-10-r74 and they were rather better optical quality than some of the dogs of SCT's that I have seen tested on Wolfgang Rohr's and Moscow Astronomy Club's interferometer, Artificial Sky and Ronchi Tests. Price was higher for the better quality optics though, it is admitted. Regards, AG
  5. There was a magazine article in one of the Astronomy mag's a few years ago that showed C14 Edge HD OTA's being hand figured at Torrance, California, USA by using a Star pattern lap on the secondary mirror to null the system, and a red laser being used as an Artificial Star along with a DSLR to take photo's of the diffraction pattern and to align the optics. It's not the method that matters though, it's the quality of the optical surfaces after "Quality control". Too many SCT's are Astigmatic, with a ton of Spherical Aberration, bowing Ronchi lines with the Ronchi test "eyepiece" (133LPI) with 4 bands showing, Airy Discs with several spikes on bright stars, dirty looking Airy Discs, primary misaligned on the carrier permanently glued in / loose primary mirror retaining collar, mirror flop, focusers with backlash, quite a bit of scattered light from rough optics etc. My C11 USA made from year 2000 is like this. There is also one more C11 at our local club (LAS) which is much the same optically. Neither of us much like the view at high magnification on Stars because of this (350x upwards). In comparison, my 7" Meade Mak (also made in USA, much older) is 1/6 wave or better, no scattered light, no bowing of the Ronchi lines, one medium brightness first diffraction ring on bright stars (such as Dubhe), no Astigmatism, almost no Spherical Aberration, Star Test that looks very similar indeed on both sides of focus when defocussed very little at 333x, breakout of the centre donut is very similar size both sides of focus and breaks out at very similar distance either side of focus, and looks text book in comparison, very clean Airy Discs. Just wish I had ever seen that in any C11 I ever saw. I saw better results than my C11 optics from my friend Jon's 8" F10 Meade ACF but the contrast on Mars was way worse than on my 7" Mak, and that was with Mars higher in the sky with his scope (optics cooled to ambient on every scope tested, no thermal plume from primary on out of focus donut, collimation nailed dead on, no dew on corrector etc). I think I have given up on SCT's and I want to try an 8" Mak. Regards, Alistair G.
  6. About the focusing, your LS60 is different than my LS50 in that you have much more focus range available than mine, i.e. in-travel. So yours comes to focus further out than mine, so I read. Try pulling the diagonal nosepiece out 1/2" or so if the eyepiece won't quite come to focus, secure it, then try again. You need to get the Sun's disc edge sharp before you have any hope of seeing details on the surface. Then try tuning, go from one extreme end of travel to the other on the tuner. You should see the Sun darken. Keep the Sun centered in the eyepiece as you do the tuning. Surface should go darker which would show it coming on-band, then you should see orange peel texture. If you see multiple images of the Sun and it won't tune on-band, then it's been dropped and the Etalon is decontacted (worst case scenario) which would requre returning it to Lunt in Arizona. The Euro Lunt service centre in Germany (Bresser) will not repair a decontacted Etalon, but will service everything else. I have seen other people complain about poor views through some of these scopes, I don't know why that is, I hope it's not common. They can be rather awesome also, I'd love to try an LS60 sometime. Best Regards, Alistair G.
  7. Wow. Erm... well it has got a 5 year warranty, so hopefully it's still under warranty? Sounds like it doesn't perform for some reason, like it's not coming "on-band" with the tuning? i.e. like all you are seeing is a red disc with sharp edges but with nothing on it? Very sorry to hear about the disappointment. Speaking of tuning, my pressure tuner makes a heck of a big difference to the view, but it's easy to tune it correctly to get the surface orange peel and dark filaments and Prominences. But it is rather stiff to turn, a result of the air pressure (25 PSI at peak) needed. Mine needs to be screwed quite a long way in when it's cold outside (I equalise the pressure first then tune it) as I'm at only 54m above Sea Level. I did manage to get a couple of days when I got a total of about an hour's viewing last week (was very difficult conditions, I'm in St.Helens, UK 53.5N, Sun only about 12 degrees above horizon when I was observing, finished off being about 7 degrees above horizon, still good views and nice proms even with Sun that low down). There isn't a whole lot going on right now on the surface though, a large and small easy to see dark filament with some detail in them and the proms were sometimes large and detailed, sometimes subdued and small and dim, in the last week. Sun is rather close to "solar minimum" of it's 11 year cycle right now, and nothing like what it's like at it's peak of the solar cycle. I bought my LS50 new, last year in Summer, and it's always given the same great views. Just out of curiosity, check the nosepiece end of the diagonal, and the blocking filter also. Some people reported that the larger blue glass filter goes cloudy or "mouldy" (oxidisation) and the red filter can get lots of little red circles on it (same thing, deterioration of filter), but the blue glass being cloudy seems to be not at all a common thing to happen, and I've only ever seen one bad Blocking Filter. Mine is a B600 BTW 6mm diameter, smaller than yours (which I assume is B1200) ? Did the new TeleVue Sol Searcher make a positive difference? I bought one last week as I was sometimes spending up to 15 minutes squinting at the Sun (maybe damaging my eyesight with it) trying to find the Sun even with a 32mm Plossl! With the Sol Searcher even on first time use it was like "boom" there's the Sun in the 32mm Plossl. Then I adjusted the Sol Searcher and now Sun is there in any eyepiece I put in the LS50. It's an utterly essential item IMHO. Best, Alistair G.
  8. Hi, I hope the views get better with your 60. I have the Lunt 50 pressure tuned and it's a fabulous scope, trememdous detail and contrast that several times seems to exceed what I see on GONG Ha images. I use a dark cloth over my head and it makes an enormous difference to the views compared to having ambient light shining into my eyes. My favourite views are with my TeleVue 11mm Delite, VERY contrasty and detailed, dark background and bright Prominences, I need the Eye Relief as I use Dioptrx. Being seated helps a LOT compared to standing. Using a tracking mount (I have CG5) also is essential in my opinion. Personally I find seeing to be nearly irrelevant when I am using the 11mm Delite. Thin cloud cover and haziness doesn't hurt the views that much either from what I have seen. Keep us updated on your viewings! Best Regards, Alistair G.
  9. I notice that Baader do a 1.25x GPC for your Mark V ;- http://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/accessories/optical-accessories/barlow-lenses-coma-and-glaspathcorrectors/glaspathcorrectorr-1125-for-baader-mark-v-großfeld-binocular.html ...as well as one for the MaxBright binoviewer. Have you tried or thought of trying this to reduce the magnification with your LS60? I wonder if it would allow eyepieces to come to focus with a Mark V or MaxBright in my smaller Lunt 50 ? Regards, Alistair G.
  10. Didn't you manage to get your LS50 to work with your William Optics Binoviewer? If so, which eyepieces did you manage to reach focus with, and what barlow did you use to do so? I also have a Lunt 50 with B600 BF and I am trying to find a binoviewer that is compatible. I found this one so far ;- https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/500093-lunt-ls50-h-alpha-scope-and-siebert-black-night-binoviewers/#entry6585466 Regards, Alistair G.
  11. I ran into this same problem of my SkyWatcher 200P 8" F5 Newtonian dewing over heavily on the secondary mirror. So I decided to wrap my eyepiece dewheater around my secondary stalk and WOW is it ever effective. Even though it draws only 7W at 12V, it clears the heavy dew within a mere couple of minutes. I bought mine from ;- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KEENOVO-Dew-Heater-Bands-for-3-3-5-Finder-Telescopes-Eyepieces-Optics/282039789170 ...described as "KEENOVO Dew Heater Bands for 3"~3.5" Finder Telescopes Eyepieces Optics+RCA Plug". I keep it powered off, and only activate it when I notice dew forming on the secondary, and as soon as the dew clears I switch it off again. Pix ;- https://www.flickr.com/photos/65636244@N04/albums/72157688544088875 Regards, Alistair G.
  12. For those that would like motorised focusing, Starlight told me that their dual speed Feathertouch focuser was needed as the single speed model has no provision for adding a motor. I am referring to a factory fitted remote controlled motorised focuser for the LS50. Hopefully someone (maybe FLO) will import this focuser so we can buy them in UK. I also bought a LS50 brand new recently, and they are excellent, plenty of surface detail and prom detail, with very good contrast, I like mostly to use my TeleVue Radian 8mm eyepiece, and often with a 2x Barlow element on the end of the eyepiece with a UV/IR filter acting as a spacer to make the barlow magnification factor suitable for bringing my LS50 to focus. Wonderful views. Pressure tuner holds pressure for a long time. Very pleased with mine. Regards, Alistair G.
  13. I got a reply from Starlight Instruments which reads ;- "Yes this is the correct focuser for the Lunt 50mm [FTF1575BCR---FEATHER TOUCH® ROTATABLE 1.25" DIAMETER SINGLE SPEED .75" DRAW TUBE TRAVEL, BRAKE, AND COMPRESSION RING], but if you want to motorize it, you will need the dual speed version as the single speed version does not have a place to attach the motor. Below is the link to the dual speed version: http://starlightinstruments.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=ftf1575&category_id=0&product_id=445 Below is the link to the electronic focusing kit and the motor needed for the above focuser is the HSM20: http://starlightinstruments.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=96&product_id=356 Please contact me if you have any questions or if you would like to proceed with an order. Thank you Wayne Schroeder Starlight Instruments 2380 E Cardinal Dr. Columbia City IN 46725 www.starlightinstruments.com 260-244-0020" Regards, AG
  14. On the negative side, the request that I sent to Lunt USA for some new O rings / grease almost 48 hours ago has gone unanswered so far. I'll report back if I get a reply, I'll try them twice before giving up and trying Lunt's German service department or the place where I bought the scope. AG
  15. I wonder if this Feathertouch option for the LS50 is available motorised? So I can have remote control focusing whilst broadcasting for example? EDIT: I just contacted Starlight Instruments asking this and await a reply, I'll report back with what they say. Regards, Alistair G.
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