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About Live_Steam_Mad

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  1. I think before trying to learn how to do photography, if it were me, I would first try learning how to align the scope and mount with a 3 star alignment, with a 32mm Plossl visually, make sure you understand how to do that and can do that repeatably and reliably, then learn how to collimate the scope, at 50x, then 100, then 200x in focus then at 400x in focus, then learn how to polar align the mount, and then think about attempting to get a camera to focus through the scope without an eyepiece. In that order. Just my 2p worth. Regards, AG
  2. What was the Tamiya brand "Sky" color XF-21 paint like in comparison to the Takahashi old green color paint? How good of a match was it? Which telescope of Takahashi in particular are you wanting to put the touch up paint onto? I also need a Tak touch up paint jar, for a 1997 model year CN-212 where the front metal dust cover / lid has some wear / defects on the paint. I also see that the original Tak touch up paint is not available in the UK, it seems. BTW I have a friend in Japan who got a sales person from Starbase to telephone Takahashi whilst my friend was in the shop, and Takahashi told the sales person that Yes they could indeed repaint the lid, BUT only in the current modern color and not in the original green color. This is disappointing, because e.g. TeleVue can and will refurbish any old telescopes or eyepieces of TeleVue brand, a reason why I admire them so much. Regards, AG
  3. My friend in Japan has a 1st generation Mesu mount and Scitech hand control and Windows 10 PC, we would like to know how the hell you align it. I have quite a lot of experience with Meade, Celestron and SkyWatcher mounts, I can align an LX200 classic, my AudioStar on my StarNavigator 102, my Celestron NexStar Plus on the CG5 ASGT, and my SkyWatcher EQ6-R Pro, and where all objects are close to the centre of the FOV with 32mm Plossl in 8" F5 scope etc, and with polar axis error of 7 seconds in one axis and 5 arc seconds in the other. I don't do imaging but my friend would like to and maybe I would in time also. Can you do a Youtube video on aligning the Mesu or some form of tutorial ? Or maybe you can link me to one? My friend has no view of Polaris but I do. Basically what I am saying is, Please Help!! Best Regards, AG
  4. Given a particular focal ratio, it is the glass types which determine the level of Chromatic Aberration correction that is possible, not the surface polish or accuracy of the surfaces of the lenses. Regards.
  5. Anyone know what the focuser travel is on the Explore Scientific AR127 or AR152 ? Also for the Altair 125ED F8 ?
  6. If anyone gets a chance to compare the TS 8" CC with a C8 XLT or Meade 8" UHTC (SCT/ACF) side by side at the same magnification, I would love to hear what the brightness difference is, as I am interested in buying this scope for the return of Mars later this year, I was hoping that it the 8" CC would outperform my Meade 7" Mak (which has the best corrected and smoothest optics of any scope I ever tested) and my rough, primary misaligned and overcorrected C11 and my rough SkyWatcher 8" F8 Newt which has some Spherical Aberration. If Meade product designers ever read this, please bring us an 8" version of your 7" Mak, it was wonderful. Regards.
  7. Interesting. Can you post / link to proof of the "99 per cent Dielectric" claim by TS being wrong? Regards
  8. I have a Lunt 50 and also a Lunt 60 Tilt tuned, I see views very similar to this, especially in my LS60. I see plenty of details, and strong surface granulation everyday, in all of my eyepieces from 18mm to 5mm, and also through my Vixen-made TeleVue 8-24mm Click Stop Dioptrx compatible Zoom eyepiece. The tuner makes an enormous difference in both scopes. I don't use cameras at the moment. When I double stack the LS50 I see a preposterously large amount of details. This is all without a black cloth, but with a ScopeStuff Solar Shield. Using the black cloth makes everything easier to see. My LS60 Tilt tuned scope comes to it's optimum tuning right near the end of the tuning range where the resistance suddenly goes slack to no resistance at all. There is some backlash in my Tilt tuner that annoys me though. My LS50 comes on band near the end of it's tuning range close to maximum of being screwed in. I am at 54m above Sea Level, and in England. Regards, AG
  9. OK found it LOL ;- https://bit.ly/2XmIJ6n Regards.
  10. What is the link to the map used in the first post above? Regards, AG
  11. There's no silver in the blue filter. Lunt confirmed a while back that the blue filter is Schott BG38 Blue Glass. There is no coating on either side of the blue filter. The thickness of it determines the transmission at 656.28nm, the transmission is quite low already. The glass appears to be chemically unstable (in some conditions?). It's Meade who use ITF filters with Silver as the middle layer. The thread holding the filter is tapped at an angle to prevent filter reflections. One f our local Astro club members has a B600 with way higher transmission than either of my two B600's. Regards, Alistair G.
  12. Hello Kev. When I try to follow the 1st link to your mod ( http://www.photosbykev.co.uk/wordpress/2011/11/29/pst-modifications/ ) it says "Oops! That page can’t be found." on your website / blog. Any chance you could fix this please as I'd love to take a look at the mod. Best Regards, Alistair G.
  13. Have you got any pictures of or links to information on your 90mm refractor / Lunt 50 Etalon setup? I have Lunt 50 and LS50C Double stack but there doesn't seem to be any adapter available to mount the LS50C on any refractor (although the LS50FHa does have adapters available). Regards, Alistair G.
  14. I disagree strongly that the quality of the views visually on double stars depends on the eyesight of the observer. I have much worse eyesight than most people with 3.75 diopters of Astigmatism in my observing eye and I see horrid Astigmatism at low power with my spectacles ON, my glasses do not correct fully at a 6mm Exit Pupil. The out of focus oval diffraction pattern's direction (axis) moves with my head, so the Astig. is in my own eyes. However, at high magnifications (e.g. 333x in the 7" Mak, giving about 0.5mm Exit pupil), I see no aberration due to my own eyes, the aberrations are coming from my scope's optics (8" Newt or C11 or 7" Mak) at this size of Exit Pupil. My moderate Long sightedness does not matter, since I am wearing glasses that compensate for that. My eyesight does not change the fact that my C11 is strongly overcorrected and no amount of collimation will ever alter it. The Ronchi lines bowing would be seen by anyone else, as would the differences between the Star images compared to the 7" Mak, at this Exit Pupil. It is the problem of my C11's optics not my eyesight. Once upon a time Takahashi made SCT's, as did Opticon https://www.cloudynights.com/articles/cat/user-reviews/telescopes/schmidt-cassegrains-scts/opticon-10-r74 and they were rather better optical quality than some of the dogs of SCT's that I have seen tested on Wolfgang Rohr's and Moscow Astronomy Club's interferometer, Artificial Sky and Ronchi Tests. Price was higher for the better quality optics though, it is admitted. Regards, AG
  15. There was a magazine article in one of the Astronomy mag's a few years ago that showed C14 Edge HD OTA's being hand figured at Torrance, California, USA by using a Star pattern lap on the secondary mirror to null the system, and a red laser being used as an Artificial Star along with a DSLR to take photo's of the diffraction pattern and to align the optics. It's not the method that matters though, it's the quality of the optical surfaces after "Quality control". Too many SCT's are Astigmatic, with a ton of Spherical Aberration, bowing Ronchi lines with the Ronchi test "eyepiece" (133LPI) with 4 bands showing, Airy Discs with several spikes on bright stars, dirty looking Airy Discs, primary misaligned on the carrier permanently glued in / loose primary mirror retaining collar, mirror flop, focusers with backlash, quite a bit of scattered light from rough optics etc. My C11 USA made from year 2000 is like this. There is also one more C11 at our local club (LAS) which is much the same optically. Neither of us much like the view at high magnification on Stars because of this (350x upwards). In comparison, my 7" Meade Mak (also made in USA, much older) is 1/6 wave or better, no scattered light, no bowing of the Ronchi lines, one medium brightness first diffraction ring on bright stars (such as Dubhe), no Astigmatism, almost no Spherical Aberration, Star Test that looks very similar indeed on both sides of focus when defocussed very little at 333x, breakout of the centre donut is very similar size both sides of focus and breaks out at very similar distance either side of focus, and looks text book in comparison, very clean Airy Discs. Just wish I had ever seen that in any C11 I ever saw. I saw better results than my C11 optics from my friend Jon's 8" F10 Meade ACF but the contrast on Mars was way worse than on my 7" Mak, and that was with Mars higher in the sky with his scope (optics cooled to ambient on every scope tested, no thermal plume from primary on out of focus donut, collimation nailed dead on, no dew on corrector etc). I think I have given up on SCT's and I want to try an 8" Mak. Regards, Alistair G.
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