Jump to content



  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by glennbech

  1. Hey. I just got a bargain on the 12" dob goto since the previous owner was open about the scope having some tracking and goto or electronics issue Now I figured out what's wrong. The alt axis works fine, and as expected, but the azimuth motors axis over react to every impulse So regardless of what slew speed I set, it will always move the scope the same about in the az direction when I press a button This is, if course, full crisis for tracking. The scope just does fast 360s Anyhow. This miust be on the motor controller side right.? I can't see that this is a synscan controller issue? Can I order replacements got the alt and az motors? I DID connect the synscan controller to the az motoes with a RJ45 ethernet cable, as the previous owner misplaced it. The cable is a straight up RJ45 to RJ44 right? Ideas?
  2. Hey. I just got a bargain on the older skywatcher 12 flextube dobsonian. The main reason for the price, was that the electronics are faulty. According to the previous owner, the scope acted erratic on tracking. Ha also misplaced the cable between hand controller and az motors. I have a few ways forward. Can I disengage the motors and use it in manual mode, ie. Get more fluid motion than now then the motors act on the movement? What cable would I need between az motors and hand i controller. Can I upgrade to the latest WiFi system? Can I hack or make something? I am proficient with a solder iron, arduino and my 3D printer. Any advice taken, and sorry about the premature send. I had written. Almost this much when my phone died. Rgards.
  3. Now that I only do visual astronomy, I tend to get a lot more astronomy done. Before, I would not bother to set up the imaging gear if the sky was not clear for the night. Now I get a lot of "opportunistic" and very efficient "hole in the clouds" sessions. That is fantastic! Last Tuesday was such a day, and I had a clear view of the moon for a couple of hours before the clouds rolled in. The air was very calm and the view through the ES 82 degree 4,7 was breathtaking. The eyepiece and the Megrez 90 team up display the entire moon at 132x magnification. That view will, 100% - money back guaranteed, produce "ooohs and aaahs" from friends and family. The view always makes me smirk, and go... "cool...". It's not an easy eyepiece, but rewarding and growing on me. First, I checked off a very easy Lunar 100 target: Fracastorius. I then went for a feature that I had tried and failed the day before; the Janssen rille. On Monday, the Janssen crater was practically ON the terminator. The dramatic shadows made it impossible to make out features. Tuesday, the moon was waxing and 32% illuminated. It is a very good time for the Janssen area. The crater, and the Rimae coming out from the crater Fabricius was easy to spot. The row of craters that start at Petavius; Snellius, Stevinus, Stevinus C, Rheita and Metius is a good way to find Janssen. "Crater hopping", with the software "Atlun" has proved very efficient for me. I finished the evening with an observation of the Cauchy region (L48). I was able to see Rupes Cauchy, but not the Rimae north of the crater. I have to go back for that later. I switched over to my late 60's "classic" Japanese Polarex 133. It has a 60mm objective lens and at 700mm, not very unlike my Megrez 90. To my surprise, I was able to make out Rimar Cauchy with my 6mm Zeiss Ortho just as good. It's a super fun scope with crystal crisp optics. I am very happy that I have taken the Lunar challenge. I did not realize how dynamic Lunar viewing is! And it is also good to have something to do when it makes deep sky observation impossible. Thanks for reading this far
  4. The sky would be clear and all stars showing if this was the Northern lights. It was very strong this night, I see it from time to time but not that clearly.
  5. You might have spotted the northern lights. I see it from Oslo/Norway tonight. Sometimes it is visible this far south, it was pretty strong an hour ago or so.
  6. This was totally new to me and very useful information! Thanks for taking the time to write it up. Terms floating around like "light bucket", can easily produce a mental model of aperture as an "opening" for light to "pour into". Larger aperture, more light. I have read up a bit on exit pupil. If I understand this correctly, the purpose of a larger scope is to get to higher magnification and at the same time produce an image the size of our average pupils, when the light hits the eye. Exit pupil size is determined by how fast the scope is, not the size, but larger telescopes can have low f-numbers, but still have decent focal lengths. Correct?
  7. It's very interesting that you said that about M92. I double checked the location. I thought I might a have come across a bright compact galaxy. I can imagine that is how they look in a larger telesopes
  8. I sometimes set my telemator up on the front side of the house , facing south, to observe the moon and Jupiter. My megrez 90 is then at the balcony opposite side. After that I bother my family, turning out lights and running through the house, back and forth Dark adaption is impossible anyway. We oversee a small town from our house and the lights from it constantly disturbs my night vision.
  9. From my balcony, I only have good visibility North and East. That limits what I can see form home, but the seasons bring enough diversity to keep my interest. I can get a peek through my roof and the house next door and I found Cheretan in Leo with my 33mm. I tried to spot the Leo triplet to get an idea of how good the skies where. I could see absolutely nothing, and knew that Mag 9+ objects were out of reach. Hercules is in a good spot nowadays, So I decided to check off a few brighter messier objects of my 2016 list. I have spotted M13 earlier this year in my 60mm 1960's refractor, but last Friday I went back with my 90mm Megrez to see if I could tease out some more detail. I located eta-hercules with my 33mm 2" WO- SWAN and M13 is in the same field. I tried different magnifications all the way up to 132x, but I could hardly make out anything else than a fuzzball, even with averted vision. My skies are not that dark. Moving west, finding M92 was a breeze. It was Also bright and difficult to miss, but smaller. M57 was easy to spot. I could clearly make out the ring, with the hole. It will be interesting to go back on a darker night, and observe it more in detail. I had some great views at M57 through a 8" dob I used to have. A real fascinating object! As a novice observer ,I need to learn more about magnitudes. Stellarium (Software) lists M57 as Mag 9 about the same as the M66 galaxies). I could find M57 low in the sky. but not M66. Is it because the galaxies are larger ,and the magnitude in Stellarium is shown as the total light emitted from the object? It could explain why M57 was easy to see, at only 2 minutes and 30 seconds in size.
  10. I am refurbishing a Weltblick 60/910mm Circle K (Kenko) refractor from the mid-late 60's. These were produced in Japan and sold by department stores under a wide range of local brand names at the time. The only way to identify the maker and time of production is to look for identification symbols and "passed" stickers. The kit was dirty but very complete, dust caps on finder, scope, eyepieces. I have fixed a slack problem on the RA Axis, and taken the EQ mount apart to its last part, polished, cleaned and re-greased. The mount is now butter smooth to operate. In the picture, you see vixen handles. The original ones are "springs", and cause a lot of unwanted motion in actual use. This could have been a "love story", but the objective lens has major issues. The only cause I can imagine, is that it has been disassembled and re-assembled wrong in its history. If someone has experience in interpreting crazy star test patterns, don't be shy (PM me if you like). I was very eager to get this fixed up, So I have actually bought a twin scope for parts. I got it for a bargain of 25 euros, from a German seller. The twin is another brand but 60/910, same age and manufacturer. I will either place the new OTA on this mount, or swap lens cells based on what tube looks best. I think that scope looks smashing
  11. Yes, I think it's worth it. The telescope and mount are in very good overall shape for its age, and the kit is nearly complete. It feels good to restore, and improve its function to something useable that fills a hole in my current setup (slow refractor). I have the Zeiss, but the wooden tripod and cast and solid EQ mount has it's charm. I can also very easily set it up as a solar scope, with a new filter, if I want. The gear is included in the kit. The Jason is in transit
  12. I and my Weltblick have had quite a journey since I got it. After first light I noticed a couple of problems with the optics. Star images were okay, and the moon looked good with little or no CA. The view of Jupiter brought out the problem. The planet showed a couple of yellow halos, the size of the planet . It was also difficult to get a good clear image because of glare and internal reflections. Looking more closely at the lens it had traces of vaporized fluids and dust between the air spaced elements. I got some help over "at another forum, with a lot of classic telescope enthusiasts" and did my first split/clean/reassemble of an air spaced doublet. The result was still not good, the image improved but the halos were still there. Looking down the tube shows this ; Looks like the telescope maker had a bad day. There is a gap between the focuser-end baffle and the tube. The baffles themselves are also not properly painted, something that should be done? This is what I am working on at the moment. I also experienced some slack in the RA axis and have fixed that by taking the entire EQ mount apart for re-lube and tightening. This was the part causing problems. It is now cleaned and ready for a re-grease and assembly: I am glad I did not give up on the telescope. I have put down some effort in it now, and as soon as I fix the baffles issues I am sure it will perform very well on planets and bright stars as well!
  13. Beware that this is a bit like upgrading your TV to a 50" from a 24" without switching from the antenna on the roof to HD cable. You will get a 50" image on your TV, but it will be magnified noise. If I am going to throw a lot of money at Eyepieces, it will be large FOV ones. I have a "cost efficient" William Optics SWAN 33mm / 70 degrees FOV. I thought It were pretty good until my first night at a decent sky. Looking at the double cluster only half of the FOV were pinpoint stars, the rest of the large FOV looked like c*p. I wanted to cry and bury the EP in the snow then and there. I use it to "Star hop" in visual astronomy, so I'll keep using it for that. I think more expensive EPs do a far better job in the wide field area than budget ones. For planets.. meh. Huge disclaimer: I've done visual astronomy only this year, and the last six imaging. Don't take anything I say for anything other than my personal opinions and experiences. Listen to the experts :-)
  14. Also... After viewing Jupiter almost every session for the last two months; as a novice, the eyepiece doesn't make a difference. The seeing will always be the limiting factor. I doubt that the the views will be dramatically better in super expensive EPS, even on the rare, very good slseeing nights. At least compared to 'okey' EPS. My limited experience so far is that is impossible to throw money at Jupiter. Patience works my best views so far of the red planet is with a Polarex 60mm vintage refractor and the stock (Polarex 7mm) EP.
  15. Just want to chime in on the praise for the Vixen SLV series. I only have the 20mm, but the eyepiece is very well built and a pleasure to use with the good eye relief and the rotate-to-extends eye cups. They are made with a high friction, rubber-like material, so you won't drop them by accident. I also have NLVs for higher magnifications. Good performers, but no the same "feel good" build quality about them.
  16. After your post, I read up on coating here; http://www.astrosurf.com/luxorion/reports-coating.htm - interesting read. "Theoretically, an uncoated lens can lose about 4% of light transmission". Does the size of the eyepiece 0.96" vs 1.25" have anything to say when it comes to image brightness?
  17. Since I have made a slight detour into classic telescopes on my way from imaging to visual astronomy I now have a small collection of 0.96" eyepieces. Some of them, especially my Zeiss's seem to be of good quality. I got my adapter today and have doen a quick shoot out. Please feel free to comment on my observation, and educate me and others on Eyepiece theory Disclaimer: I am new to visual astronomy, I am very far from an expert on Eyepieces. Also feel free to comment on how to test eyepiecs! Vixen SLV 20mm vs Carl Zeiss 20mm Ortho Splitting Mizar. The Vixen SLV seems to produce a brighter image. Both eyepieces creates a clean split at 31 x magnification. The Zeiss is less tolereant for eye movement, a correct head position is needed to get pinpoint stars. Vixen NLV 10mm vs Carl Zeiss 10mm Ortho Moon & Jupiter. Both Eyepieces seem to produce an image of equal quality. .. To be continued
  18. I'm going to get a couple of those today and see if I can DIY a hack that lets me adjust tension without an Allan key...
  19. Ha! Looks like the vixen engeneers have made things quite flexible. I re mounted the telescope plate so that it is pointing to zenith at the time the handle enters the problem area. There was an extra mind twist here because my oldest son broke the metal knob opposite the one you see here. The knobs securing the scope is now under - but that's less of a problem. Looks like the vixen guys are not so stupid after all
  20. I can try, but the problem gets worse and worse at higher altitudes I'm not sure they thought this through...
  21. I upgraded The vixen Porta's handles with flexible ones; https://www.optcorp.com/vx-8800-flexible-11-5inch-handle-for-vixen-gp-porta-mount.html because I am doing more visual astronomy than before. I was observing the moon tonight, and it traveled a bit high tonight. I noticed that the handles do not rotate over a certain altitude. They bump into the mount. I'm just saying: You had one job!! Advice?
  22. ...But I can't seem to let go of my Zeiss. There is something about the build quality and mechanics that fascinate me
  23. I actually decided to sell the Polarex straight away to a CN member and Polarex/Unitron collector. My intention was never to collect or buy old telescopes, it just happened :-) When the trade is complete I will be a few steps closer to my 16" dob
  24. The Polarex Scope arrived today. I also think I have found out more about the model. The article at http://www.company7.com/library/unitron/notes.html says; This scope was sent to me from Sweden and it was gifted in 1994, by older relatives, to the seller's daughter who took no special interest in it. I believe this is strong evidence to date the telescope to pre 1971. The focuser needs some TLC. It was almost impossible to move, and after a quick de- and re-assembly the grease redistributed a little and it now works okay. It probably needs to be re-greased, but I have no idea how to. Advice, please? Besides that, I have played with it under less than optimal skies tonight and images are super sharp. I have some Zeiss 0.96" EP's that gave super images of the half moon. I also split Castor with it and it did show the companion, with diffraction rings at the 100x + magnification I had to use. The 4 provided Polarex Eyepieces seem okay. The mount is a bit wobbly when used in "point and shoot" mode. The only thing supporting the tripod legs are a metal chain. No triangular tray for Eyepieces that also acts as a support. The mount "twists/gives" a bit when pointing around. The fine adjustment knobs works great and are super smooth. Looks like I will be having some fun with this for the upcoming week; weather forecasts look great
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.