Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

23 Excellent

About olander08

  • Rank

Contact Methods

  • MSN

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Interests
    Mainly climbing, astronomy and headphones. The Universe tend to interest me as well :D
  • Location
  1. The weather forecast finally looks promising, so I'm going to start my new project tonight. I would like to make sure I'm on the right track, as it's going to require three night's of effort. The plan is to make a simple mosaic of Andromeda consisting of three images, taken with the gear in my signature. I will be taking exposures until my battery runs out, so I'm looking at around three hours more or less on each panel. I figure that I should start with the middle panel tonight, taking some 20 or so one minute exposures for the core (should I take more?) followed by a number of five minute exposures. As this is going to be the first attempt at a mosaic for me, I would like to know if there are any things I should keep in mind so that the process goes as smoothly as possible and no valuable time is lost?
  2. No one seems to stock the Baader MPCC, so I'm looking for any viable alternatives. I've read some about the Skywatcher CC, but I've also seem some threads demonstrating some issues with reflections of bright stars etc. So, is the Skywatcher CC a viable alternative? I've got the black diamond coated Explorer 200p, am I going to have problems focusing a DSLR with the Skywatcher CC? Are there any other coma correctors I should consider? Many thanks.
  3. Amazing. M31 was my firat target for astrophotography and had to struggle quite a bit to produce my first acceptable image. I was always going to have another go at it, but after seeing your image, I'm going to do it as soon as possible! Did you take any short exposures for core control? Once again, amazing results considering your gear!
  4. As we all know, long exposure photographs are able to collect more detail than our eyes ever will be able to record "live". But, a sufficiently short exposure photograph will not be able to depict an object with as much detail as a pair of adapted eyes. Since I live a long way from locations that may be able to provide near-perfect conditions, I've always wondered what they would be like. For those of you who have experienced the view of the night sky, the milky way, the andromeda galaxy, the orion nebula or whatever object, in perfect conditions. Could you please provide a realistic photograph that depicts the view that is possible to achieve? I would prefer that the pictures show less details than more, as one might get the wrong impression of what is possible to achieve. For instance, given perfect conditions, what would a view of the milky way look like? I'm sure that what I'm looking for has been discussed on this forum before, but I'm not sure exactly what to search for, so if anyone knows of a similar thread, please post a link to it in this thread.
  5. Thanks! Yes, I am planing on aquiring a Baader MPCC along with the mask and I did try to use the first image in my original post to lessen the overexposure of the core, but either the image is too processed to actually make it better or my processing skills are insufficient (at the moment). I wanted to take more darks, but due to time constraints at the time, I didn't have time to take more than 8. I'll be aiming for an equal amount of darks and lights in the future.
  6. My first astrophotography project has been to take a decent image of the wonderful M31. Due to the lack of darkness here in Sweden during the summer, my first couple of attempts did not produce any image worth posting here. When astronomical darkness first hit, I did keep on trying to image M31 with better results. I have to say that the stacked and processed image didn't live up to my expectations nor were they anywhere near the potential of my equipment. The first processed image was this one: http://i46.tinypic.com/2luvv9w.jpg (only lights, unsure of how many minutes worth) (I'm not sure how to post a smaller version of the image, so I'll just supply you with the link). I'm not one to give up, so I kept going out to image M31 every time the weather permitted and on the second session after taking the previous image (the first session after the previous image caused me a some problems with the equipment, which made me learn a few valuable tips) I managed to get things going. I knew that my previous attempts would've been better if I took darks and flats, so that is what I did this time and it made processing the image a lot simpler and made the stacked file actually look like some of the stacked files I've seen that others have taken. The results (after around ten minutes worth of processing): http://i49.tinypic.com/4t6gjt.jpg 16x300s lights 8x300s darks 21 flats And another attempt at processing: http://i47.tinypic.com/vhc8d5.jpg I added some of the exposures that had satellite trails in them as well as one with double the "normal" exposure time and one with less than half of the "normal" exposure time. Now, I'm actually very happy with the results, considering the image taken two sessions before, but I want to do better. I have a couple of questions that I would like some help with. Firstly, is the second image overprocessed? How good was my focus when taking these images (not yet purchased a bahtinov mask)? I would also like to know how much better the final processed image could be if it was processed correctly (or by someone with experience). Here is a link to the original stacked file: http://www.2shared.com/photo/EbUW-Gip/Andromeda.html From viewing the images above, what general advice could you give that might help me take better pictures in the future? I'm planning on putting in some real effort by collecting over ten hours of data on M31 when I've become a better photographer, but as you can see, I'm unable to fit the entire galaxy into view due to the FoV being too narrow with my gear (signature). Would it be possible to take two separate images (one of each half of the galaxy) and then stiching them together? How would I go about doing this without wasting valuable time (considering diffraction spikes and so on)? I would appreciate any possible feedback!
  7. Amazing, what camera did you use?
  8. If you want to go for wide apparent field of view, I can personally recommend that you import Explore Scientific's 82 degree series, which is superb value.
  9. I would definitely recommend that you wait until you can attend another star party so that you can get a good feel for what you prefer. It can save you from making painful mistakes. However, if you treat the eyepieces with respect, the second hand value should be pretty high, especially on the BST explorers that come highly recommended for their price. Also, buying second hand can save you a lot of money and reselling s/h eyepieces should only cost you the postage, ideally.
  10. I have to agree. I have the 9, 14 and 20mm and the 20mm is definitely my favorite on most targets. The contrast in these are superb.
  11. I guess this would be officially my first DSO (besides some random pictures of stars). I hope it reflects how dark the skies are here in Sweden at this time of the year, considering it was taken at ISO 200 (30s) iirc: http://i45.tinypic.com/2n8mr8m.jpg I'll return with my first processed image when the skies actually go dark here. *edit* It is, of course, M31 if you didn't guess from the detailed image
  12. If you decide to get the ES100 degree series I don't think you'd ever find any use for the Hyperion Zoom or any equivalent zoom. This is due to the fact that the apparent field of view is significantly smaller, as well as the fixed focal length EPs being, generally, of higher quality than zooms. Now, I haven't tried the Hyperion Zoom or any other eyepiece than the standard 10 and 25mm that you get with Skywatcher OTAs and the above mentioned ES EPs, but I did do a substantial amount of research before deciding to buy the ES EPs. Even if I wasn't lucky enough to pay no shipping fees or tax duties (a relative brought them home), I still would've gone for the same EPs that I, in the end, went for. Even though my experience is rather limited, I highly doubt (and please correct me if I'm wrong) that you could get anything better for $1k than the ES100 series coupled with an 82 degree 4.7mm.
  13. If you live in the US, you should definitely check out the Explore Scientific eyepieces. Most retailers are having a sale until August, so it might be wize to act sooner rather than later. I picked up the 9, 14 and 20mm of the 100 degree series and a 4.7mm of the 82 degree series for $1k, which I believe will suit me well. Unfortunately, two of the eyepieces turned out to be faulty and had to be sent back, but I've used the 14 and 20mm and I'm very pleased. It should be noted that there are multiple accounts detailing the minuscule differences of the TeleVue Ethos and the Explore Scientific 100 degree range, despite the massive price difference.
  14. I have to agree with Russel. I haven't tried any other eps than the standard 10 and 25mm that you get with most SW OTAs and the 100 and 82 degree ES. Going back to the 10 and 25mms now, it looks like you're looking through a narrow pipe! Since the field stop in the 100 degree is out of direct view when you're looking at the center FOV, I can't imagine you'd ever need more than 100. In fact, I'm sure 82 degrees would be enough for me, but since the price differential is so comparatively small when you import from the US it's probably better to go with the 100 degree eps.
  15. Get the seben and a wide field EP, like the PanaView 32mm which comes highly recommended, and you will have a good first set.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.