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Posts posted by andyo
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Thanks for a great tutorial. I read through it yesterday and although I have been guiding for over a year I but picked up some great tips from this.Last night I got by far the best guiding I have ever achieved,so thanks a lot Ian for taking the time to post this
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This is a great tutorial I used the -r and objs but it kept saying no solution so I removed it and it works again.However I change the downscaling option to 3 and this helps reduce the solve time considerably,not sure how it works though I think it has something to do with rescaling the image
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Thanks for taking the time to post this tutorial very clear and useful
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Why would you want a clear filter to just allow UV or IR only through guys? What would that offer?
I have asked FLO which filter set is provided and will report back here. I think is is the one you link to Richie but I just want to clarify.
Sorry I should have been clearer It doesn't allow just UV and IR light through but also UV and IR light.The luminance filter is just an IR/UV cut filter I don't know why you want to allow UV/IR light through I imagine its more to do with scientific purposes.
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I didn't get a clear one though, not sure if it is needed but will try without first. It isn't often mentioned on here, everyone just refers to LRGB
A clear one would not normally be needed as it is for allowing ultraviolet or infrared light through
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I will ask Martin or Steve at FLO to be sure. Either way, I am sure they are very good!
I also went for the anti-reflection.I checked the focus between them and the claim that they are very nearly parfocal is right.Using bahtinov mask and bahtinov grabber the difference was ever so slight and all fell within critical focus
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Perhaps some more knowledgeable person will give us the answer - please I know nothing about the SW one but can't imagine it being very good for just £27. You usually get what you pay for.
cant agree more with you about you get what you pay for, I think I will probably go for the idas filter as will be good for both the ccd and dslr but as you said it would be good to hear from someone in the know
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The Hutech IDAS P2 LP filter looks like it would be much better at LP reduction than relying on the separated RGB Baader bandpass for cutting Na and Hg emissions though it does cut out some other wavelengths. How important these are for galaxies I don't know. When I was using a DSLR I found the Astronomik CLS CCD filter worked well but I gather the IDAS one is better. I'm thinking of putting it on my wish list.
The idas filter seems to get good reviews certainly for dslr's.I thought of getting this filter myself Is it worth the extra cash for mono ccd when using RGB filters as opposed to the £27 skywatcher
one.I dont know which one to go for myself
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Yes, that's tha adapter I've got. I'm not using an LP filter ATM but I may need one if I image anything low in the south or south-west where there is light pollution. It should only be necessary for L as the other filters will block LP anyway so one alternative would be to swap the 1.25" L filter with an LP but i guess that might spoil the parfocal filter/scope combination I have at present. An extra filter shouldn't affect use with the other filters I don't think so I may well take that option.
I am thinking of adding a LPF to my combination and was thinking about just adding a skywatcher 2" one on to the FR using the FLO adapter and Baader 2"click lock adapter.This wouldnt affect the parfocal filters and I have heard that although the RGB do prevent a lot of the light pollution the addition of a LP filter also helps further improve the signal to noise ratio
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http://www.astronomy...php?f=43&t=4932
I carried out this adjustment and now my focuser is rock solid, no slippage whatsoever but not too tight!
Yes thats the same mod I did to mine and fingers crossed its held out fine,I even held it by the focuser tube with the weight of the scope on it and no slippage at all.I also
modded the skywatcher autofocuser and have that attached as well, it all seems very solid now.
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That Baader adapter really looks the business. I assume it just screws directly onto the ED80s drawtube?
I am trying to find out if that is the case,it says fits most skywatcher telescopes
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Thats good to use for adding a 2" filter in front.. also I use one of these for a very secure fit.. I hate the 1 or 2 point screw adapters as they can introduce slight tilt into the train.
Thank,yes I am not a fan of the 2 thumbscrews so that will also be a great addition
thanks Gina and kingboya for the replies
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Well this is my setup now, spacing settled at 55.46mm. The filter wheel is loaded and ready for action. Now for the clouds....... >_>
Hi, I see you dont screw your reducer directly on to the scope focuser tube.I am thinking of doing the same so I can add a 2" LPR filter to my set up and wondered is this the adapter you use to
attach the reducer to the ED80
http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adaptors/flo-adapter-for-skywatcher-focal-reducers.html
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I keep taking pictures of the back of the eyepeice cap hoping desperately for some clear skies only had one half clear night since i got mine lol.Dont forget the boot polish when those adapters arrive.
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Here you go an image of my set up
total measurement of 54.5 taken the same as shown in sha-parts review.That is from camera sensor to the focal plane of the reducer(thats the flat black part where the screw thread starts)
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Hi,
Ok attached it all together and measured the distance,I havnt got callipers just metal ruler but i got the distance to just over 41mm.I managed to add a 1.2mm delrin spacer onto the 10mm
spacer at the m42 end.Just clipped it open with scissors and it fitted nicely good tight fit with no flexure.Link for delrin spacers here:-
http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adaptors/baader-t2-delrin-spacer-ring-set.html
So the gap is now 42.5mm plus the 12mm for the Atik gives 54.5mm.The optimal distance for this reducer is 55mm but this is good enough there is some tolerance with them.However I havnt given it a working test.That should happen when we get another clear night around about September.By the way the boot polish worked I dont know about vaseline never tried it
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I am getting confused with the distances from the FR to the chip. Is it 55 or 56 mm?
Secondly, assuming 55mm due to the filter effects, is the following true?
Camera chip to front 12mm--> EFW2 22mm--> M48 to T2 adapter 1mm--> xxmm extension tube--> M54 T2 1.3mm --> FR.
Is this correct? If it is, then 55mm-12mm-22mm-1mm-1.3mm=18.7mm extension tube. You are all talking about extension tubes of approx 10mm?
I am clearly missing something, but I cannot get my head around this!
Yes you havnt allowed for the distance on the actual FR.I have my FR back and just bought some boot polish will have the answer for exact spacing my combination comes to
later on so will update this post tonight
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Hi I am in the process of doing this very thing and have also been in touch with Martin from FLO regarding relevent adapters.Martin informed me they are now having the adapters custom made to attach the EFW2 to the skywatcher focal reducer but I dont know what the spacing will be (M54 to M42x0.75) may be worth an email to them asking for an update.
I did something very similar to Gina but i got my m48 to t2 adapter(m42x0.75) from altair astro link here:-
http://www.altairastro.com/product.php?productid=16569&page=1
This adds 1mm on to the optical train
Flo sell a m54 to t2 adapter low profile link here:
http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adaptors/atik-m54-to-m42-t-adapter.html
This adds 1.3mm on to the optical train
I also got the EFW2 as 22mm and it is 12mm to the camera sensor.
I attached these together and measured the distance I got very similar results to Gina but found I needed 10mm to make the distance to 56.3mm I believe this is close enough.
I got the 10mm spacer from Telescope services the link is here:
http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p2260_TS
while I believe these measurements to be accurate I cannot confirm these measurements as the focal reducer is not in my possesion at the moment but I will have it back by the weekend and will attach them all together and measure
the distance to confirm.Feel free to PM me on saturday if you want to know the exact distance I get.
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Thanks Pete just installed this and it works fine
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This was my first DSO M15 taken with spc900nc(lx modded).14 subs 34secs and 10 darks.Taken 2nd september 2011 I was made up with it
M81 and M82 LRGB
in Imaging - Deep Sky
Posted
really nice image