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eekeek

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About eekeek

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    Nebula
  1. Can you tell visually (white light or Ha) what the polarity of the spots is? I understand a little of Hale's Law and Joy's Law (or think I do! ).
  2. I thought they started closer to either pole and then appear towards the equator as the cycle progresses. New cycle spots have the opposite polarity to the old ones but I have no idea if you can tell that visually. Would love to know the truth of this!
  3. Have a look for macro extension tubes. They have a female EF bayonet fitting and are modular. At the other end I have a 42-62 step ring to connect to the astrocam. About £10 if you shop around
  4. Forgive me as I have only skimmed the other posts..... The limiting factor is not cash, weight or anything else but your location. However good your setup, the "seeing" and "transparency" will limit the views you get. My location is inner city. I've almost given up on eyepieces and I'm slowly trying to build a setup around EAA - that is, a camera and laptop. It is not an easy option by any means but I'm hoping I'll shortly be able to see things that just aren't possible with the Mk I eyeball and whilst sat in a comfy chair.
  5. Hello, I'd like to fit a HEQ5 head to a tripod from a CPC 1100. This tripod being much more sturdy than the HEQ5 tripod. Any suggestions how I can do this please? I've not found a pier adapter or plate that would do the job. Many thanks for any advice.
  6. Hi, Just a thought... instead of selling, have you considered getting a camera for EAA with the Dob?
  7. I'd love one but the exchange rate has made them very expensive over the last couple of years. Also, how much use will it be over the next 2-3 years between cycle 24 and 25. What sort of thing can it show you? I've read the coatings do have a relatively short life time (5 years?) and refurbs are a big chunk of the original cost. This stops me buying second hand and means a low resale value if I get a new one. Is this true/fair?
  8. Ooo oooo ooooo. Me me meeeeeeee! Will send you a pm!
  9. Thank you again. Obviously as there is something in the sky I'm excited to see, heavy rain is forecast for 24h.
  10. Thanks for sharing. Completely new to me so forgive me if this sounds daft. What could I do with this info? I've read the link and seen the directions from the NGC, so think I could find it. Is it likely to change brightness over time and then fade away again? How quickly will it change? Anyway of knowing? So I could try and photograph it and compare over a few nights. Any techniques or filters etc that would help? Or is this something to leave to the spectroscopists? Or just look at it and marvel that I'm looking at an star exploding!
  11. Yeah, sorry. Another "help me pick a camera" thread.... I've got lots of light pollution and travelling is a problem. Also my eyes aren't so good and family history suggests they are going to get worse. Anyway, I like the idea of using a camera to get the most out of the scopes and relaxed viewing in front of a PC and monitor. I'm thinking Near Real Time / EAA style observing of as many different types of object as I can. But I'm not interested in long exposure photography and dread the thought of doing anything other than minimal image processing. I'm trying to build a kit list that has lots of flexibility. For instance I've got a good quality refractor for visual (WO GT 81 F5.9, 39mm image circle) hoping it will also be good for imaging and allow me to fit a herschel wedge or Quark when funds allow. I have a SCT for small stuff (9.25" F10, 43mm image circle?), an evolution mount and a beaten up old Explorer 200p Newt/HEQ5 (200mm F5) that some day will get the TLC it deserves. I fancy a Hyperstar but not anytime soon. (F2.3, 27mm image circle) Almost all my stuff is second hand and often not in full working order (I have learnt a lot taking things apart and sometimes I can put them back together again). But I'd buy new for the right camera. I think a IMX183 based camera is a good choice for me. I think it'll work well with the refractor/newt/hyperstar at low F#. But I can also use the ROI for small objects and planets at long focal lengths. I'm considering mono. I think I would be OK watching in black and white if it means more sensitivity and better detail. Am I wrong? Why? Please be kind
  12. +1 for the baader clicklock! Be aware though, you are almost certainly changing the focal length of the scope which will have an effect on infocus/backfocus, camera imaging circles, bringing bino viewers to focus etc. There are 2 styles of focuser upgrade I'm aware of. First is replacing the existing mechanism with a dual speed version. Note this is for moving the primary mirror. The second (instead), is to add a crayford focuser at the rear cell. You would use the mirror mover for rough focussing and fine focus with the crayford. The crayford moves the eyepiece and not the mirror and supposedly avoids the dreaded mirror flop!
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