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philj

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Everything posted by philj

  1. I rebated the hinges as you would with a door this reduced the gap but on the inside I just but draft excluder to seal it when closed. I don't have a shot of the top but I got a piece of garden shed guttering, turned it upside down and fixed it to the north flap with an overhang so when the roof was closed it lay over the south side and acted as a rain seal. Draft excluder strip acted as a gap filler/spider excluder at the apex. This did mean that the north roof had to be opened first but that was no bother.
  2. Yep the step needs to be there to clear the roof overhang on the wall. Just be aware that the roof felt weighs a lot and if your intending hinging the roof then it will need a lot of counterweighting. I got round that with the lightweight GRP panels.
  3. 3 big stailnless steel door hinges both sides. The roof leaves were made lightweight with the FG cladding to keep the counterweight size down but the 3 hinges were right for the job. As you can see from the close up below the hinges were off set from the wall by a bit of 2x2. This gave a good overlap plus the overlap of the cladding did OK. I also ran some draught excluder seal down the join to stop any rain or spider ingress
  4. The 1st incarnation of my observatory was a counterweighted hinged roof in 2 parts. Apex sealing was easy. I found it restrictive in windy conditions but also quite useful because I could have one side down and the other open depending on where I was observing. I kept it like that for a few years then converted to roll off, less scarey
  5. Love them Mark. I was out for an hour last night doing a few doubkes before the moon got too high and the cloud came in and I found I was using the TVs over the lvws but I think thats because of the newness of the tvs more than quality. I like the fov in the delites and its a true to the edge of field view. I still think the lvws are excellent though
  6. Yeah I noticed Jules. Im after clearing some as well, I have a load of TMB planetaries which I haven't used in yonks. I shall get round to advertising them some day soon I currently have 3 cases, some have to go
  7. 2015 version. Had to succumb and get a Maplins case due to the new additions of the Delites my wooden case was has been outgrown. Will get round to making a nice wooden case for these eventually but this will do for now.
  8. Nope, scopes look right in that colour, once upon a time they all came in that colour, it was called brass :-)
  9. You kept that quiet Nice one Jules. Good scopes and very versatile
  10. Thats good to see that Eagle Moss are doing that again. I have one, out on lian at the moment and they are very good. All brass construction with vari speed electric motor. £300 for a solid brass orrery is pretty good imho, just do a search to see what prices antique ones sell for :-)
  11. Yes John, I love it. That year it cropped up everywhere, from S@n mag, to sgl calender, I was even on the Luxall toilet walls at one time :-) The wife got a bit fed up with me going into the newsagents and looking through the astro mags to see if I was there
  12. A shot of my old FLT98, no longer with me, on one of the rare occasions in the past few years I got to use it Im sure JohnH wont mind me posting this image, I have this framed and on my wall at home to remind me that Im an astronomer when clouds get in the way. John took this of me and my plot at SGL7 (I think) Ta again John
  13. My Meade 5000 127edt a bosting scope if ever there was one. Pictured on portable rig, heq5 and berlebach
  14. Only just found this thread Derek, well done on a good find. Classic scopes just have that certain something, they look elegant and a good make will give you good views. A good 60mm long focus scope can show a surprising amount of stuff. Enjoy
  15. It works good too Jules. Its my scope of choice for lunar and planetary when the jet stream allows.
  16. Just to prove I do think mirrors can be used for telescopes - Mak 180 pro in cloudy moonlight. This scope is a magnet for clouds I reckon, it sometimes feels like every time I put this scope out to cool along come the clouds. Mind that's the same for any scope isn't it?
  17. Big brassy and little brassy, little brassy has a mahogany tripod now
  18. My first serious telescope was a 76mm Tasco 10te refractor, circa 1970, this was really well made, all metal and wood with very littke plastic. I dont recall the manufacturers mark (I didnt know the relevance then) but I wouldnt be surprised if it wasnt Towa, circle T it was a superb performer. But then Tasco started to cost cut and the influx of plastic telescopes under their name did nothing to help their reputation in the 80s. Tasco sold some great gear over the years but also some poor gear as well
  19. A case of unsightly spikes eh Jules :-) That 8" OO newt I rebuilt the other year had curved secondary holder vanes which gave acceptable views. Stick with the refractors, you know it makes sense :-) :-)
  20. Only just found this thread and find it fascinating, thanks for sharing chaps. There is a camera available for pure mono from Leica, the M monochrom. Makes me wonder if this is debayered the write up suggests it may be. However at the price its going for I dont plan on finding out anytime soon http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/860536-REG/Leica_10760_M_Monochrom_Black_and.html
  21. Cheers Jules I had to get something a bit more appropriate looking for the 4" F15 an ali maplins case just didn't look right, yeah I know
  22. A new addition to my eyepiece collection is a set of Circle T orthos, 4, 6, 9, 12.5, 18 & 25mm. Plus an old Fullerscopes adjustable barlow, shown here in their posh new box which I knocked up from an old microscope box. The diagonal is my brassified WO 1.25 Dialectric. Oh and theres a Celestron 40mm E Lux Plossl in there temporarily until I can find a rare as hens teeth 40mm Circle T Ortho This kit will be used mainly with my 4" F15 refractor.
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