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kniclander

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About kniclander

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  1. what a great company! retuend my 7ish year old binos because focusser wheel wouldn't turn any more. Opticron fixed free of charge and returned (postage paid) within 2 business days. wow! and they cleaned them for me! yay guess what? I just bought another pair of opticron bins
  2. thanks guys. I was really surprised at all the bad reviews as I've used Kay optical before and he was really good and helpful. I thought maybe they'd relocated.
  3. hi does anyone know if Kay Optical are still around? If not, anyone know any bino repair places in north london? my Opticron imagic wp 8X42s have broken - the central focusing wheel has become completely jammed. Is that likely to be repairable? thanks
  4. OK but the secondary can be roughly centred horizontally and vertically but still not be round as seen through the collicap so it still needs to be twiddled with the main bolt loose? But you need to secure it with the hex screws not the main bolt. And then you collimate it against the primary with the hex screws but to do that you need to loosen off the main bolt and how do you stop it twisting again? PS don't rush to answer as I'm going to leave it at least another ten years until I fiddle with it again...
  5. Thanks GB. Yes, the guides tend to give the impression that its simply sequential rather than iterative.
  6. Yes I have those. Its the practical side I struggle with (not being a very practical person... )
  7. been happily observing for ten years plus with nothing more than an occasional tweak to the primary. yesterday i took out the primary and gave it a little clean (it was totally covered in gunk as the scope's been semi exposed to the elements for a few years) and that seemed to go ok. today i took out the secondary just to see if it was clean (it was). taking it out was easy but putting it back - woah! every time i got it properly centred and nice and round I then tried to tighten up the big screw and the damn thing moved again. the only way i could do it was trial and error by getting the big screw semi tight and then progressively tightening the little hex bolts and essentially doing the centring and adjusting the tilt as a single exercise. Is that how you're supposed to do it? thanks
  8. FWIW the tripod and head will serve you well for scopes as well as bins - I use mine for my 4" f9 frac as well as a 5" mak. the centre column that goes up and down is incredibly useful. (I have an 058B which i think may be slightly heavier but similar)
  9. check out this link http://spacealberta.com/equipment/refractor/collimate.htm tbh if it's your first scope I'd buy new for two reasosn - 1. nice apos hold their value pretty well so you don't gain too much by buying second hand (or lose too much if you sell it); 2. if there is something amiss you might never know as you don't have much to compare it to. ps not all ed scopes (ie with ed glass) are apochromatic; some claim to be but aren't; some don't claim to be. likewise not all apos use ed glass. if you know what you want to use the scope for (ie imaging or visual) that would clarify the choice a lot, eg the ubiquitous ed80s are great for imaging but pretty limited for visual. good luck:)
  10. a barlow is not a "must have" at all. use the scope for a bit before spending any more money. there are some other things you might decide are more "must have" eg collimator, red dot finder or right angled finder, woolly hat....
  11. I think without goto your difficulty will be that you won't even be able to see the really faint stuff so if you want to image that I would think goto is a must. stuff that's actually visible in the eyepiece is probably quicker to find without goto once you've had a bit of practice at it
  12. south is where the planets are - the further away from us , the further south the plane of their orbit will be (assuming you're in the UK)
  13. lots of folk have the WO binoviewers and seem to like them. Siebert are a top name in binoviewing but i suspect their black nights will be pretty similar to the WO. see the spec for "clear aperture" for both. you will have issues with achieving focus with binoviewers in a refractor or a newtonian but should be ok in a scope where the focussing is achieved by movement of the primary (eg a mak or a SCT).
  14. I would say it's pretty tough to see now but will be easier in a couple of months time but you do need pretty dark skies. I think the previous poster might have meant ursa minor(?) as ursa major is visible in pretty much any skies.
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