Obi Wan Ken00bi

A full set of narrowband 3nm Chroma filters, 31mm unmounted  

Interesting, Do you find it difficult to get the stars the same size because the Ha filter is wider, or is this compensated by stretching Oiii and Sii more than you stretch Ha? I'm in doubt between a 3nm and 5nm Ha.

This video is really funny!  You have such a nice style @rorymultistorey I subscribed instantly after watching it.

I love that you have both the expensive stuff but dont forget the low end stuff as well. Guys like Dylan O Donell and Trevor Jones totally leave their roots behind as they get send fancy gear by suppliers. 

I also started with that hateful cg5. God that thing sucked. I finally hit it with a hammer, then sold it to my best friend, He continued hating it for 2 years until he also hit it, then sold it. I hope it will receive many more hits.

But the dreaded thing got me hooked and now I own a 6k set-up as well. The cg5 must be some sort of evil device made by a secret union of astro gear manufacturers.

haha! looking forward to seeing if there is Oiii.

I'll stay tuned mate, but already gorgeous so far. I love black and white Ha images.....

So pretty!! Well done. Are you using 3nm Chroma's? I'm really impressed how some astrophotographers get so much sense of depth in their images, including you. Is it just getting better raw data or is there a processing trick to it? I could use some of you secret sauce...

Wow how great are all these images. A true inspiration! 

2019 marked the first year for me shooting with a mono camera and filter wheel. And I am just loving it! Hope you enjoy some of my pics  

All shot with my Esprit 100, EQ6-R Pro and ASI 1600mm-pro with stock ZWO filters. I'm quite proud of my images (if that's not bragging too much!), so I feel I've earned it to upgrade to Chroma 3nm NB filters this year.

Another weekend of diy and we’ve installed the electric fence engine which can now automatically open the roof! What a victory for me and my dad (one that deserves beer). It can also be operated via Arduino and the internet to be fully remote 😁

The next step is making everything water tight and insulating the roof. 
 

Telescope will be placed come summer. 

IMG_0036.MOV

15 hours ago, AstroRuz said:

I tear apart Canon 450D and 600Ds all the time to modify them. I did several of mine. I sell them from time to time

Smart man! I was thinking about doing this as a service as well, but in the end it's not really worth the effort/ money you make. I'd rather modify them for friends and people I know for free  

11 hours ago, wimvb said:

Not in a reflector. Difference in focal point is a result of dispersion, ie difference in refractive index for different wavelengths. But refractive index isn't relevant for mirrors, because the light never goes through glass. If you have a corrector, there may be minimal chromatic abberation. Most ca is generated in the objective of a refractor.

Cool! Thanks for the explanation 😬

The light does go through glass before they hit the cmos.... the filters themselves. Doesn’t this have an effect?

The reason I mention this is because an experienced astrophotographer I'm following on youtube uses filter offsets (very tiny ones mind you!), despite having a reflector....

43 minutes ago, Adam1234 said:

When you say move the gear, I assume you just mean like removing the camera or anything else in the image train as opposed to say moving the mount?

I plan on keeping the camera attached to the scope so it's always in the same orientation. Filters I'll change using the filter wheel, so if I take flats for each filter they'll be ok for while right? Unless I change camera orientation or something in which case, take new flats. 

Yup this will work fine! Also as long as your collimation stays intact. This is the main reason I switched to fracs  

3 hours ago, sploo said:

As a DSLR user, hopefully one day getting a "proper" astro camera, this thread is very useful.

For those with the mono cameras and filter wheels; do you tend to cycle the filter for each sub (to try to get a decent spread of each type of image across a single session), or do you tend to shoot with a single filter and just accept that it'll take several nights to get a complete image?

Well, focusing can be a b*tch, so I tend to calculate the total time I will be out, divide by the filters (note that you want to spend relatively more time on the L filter, I do 50% L, 50% RGB combined). I have an expensive ED triplet, and even I need to refocus. I doubt that you dont need to refocus with a reflector either. Focus is a fine art and every wavelength has its own focal point. I'm sure can choose not to refocus, but if you want very high quality images it's best to refocus between filters. With a stepper focus motor you can spend a night calibrating the filter offsets, so once you have focused 1 filter, you can automatically refocus without running the (auto) focus routine.

I did mine myself successfully (Canon 650D) and if you take a Sunday out of your calendar and carefully follow below instructions it is very easy to do! You only need to order a 50 pound Baader BCF filter.

http://dslrmodifications.com/rebelmod450d1.html

video by same maker:

Yes you will need to dither, but this is usually automatically done by PHD2 anyway  

That's idd ventilation, but it's for the wood storage area of the building, so not the observatory part (that is closed off and insulated).

I'm using Solidworks 2011 (I still have a license for that from my old company).

More updates: the roof now rolls off!! Great milestone, since me and my dad were quite worried whether the system would work!

Can't go wrong with the 294 cooled! It's very popular, has high re-sell value. My friend has it and is over the moon, figuratively...

Hi!

I went fro DLSR to OSC to Mono and couldn't be happier with the results. The process is a lot tougher though, don't expect results the first times around (to keep pressure off yourself  ). There are quite a few tutorials online on how to stack, but that part is much easier than you might think. The aligning is done in Deep Sky Stacker. An example: you open all the lights from one channel (let's say G). Then you also open the light with the highest score, regardless of what channel (let's say your highest score in DSS is from an L frame). You basically tell DSS to use this L frame as a reference frame only (so not adding it to the stack). Then DSS aligns the stack to this frame. You do this also with R and B and L channels, and in photoshop you open each stack. Then it's simple combining R to Red, ....etc. L you past over the entire thing and select luminance. From now on it's playing with stretching each channel to you liking for a natural balance and changing the L opacity. I prefer processing mono over OSC because you have more control and I'm faster at it (now).

I've made a little comparison for you. Below is my Rosette in OSC (QHY8L) and Mono (1600mm pro), with similar iteration times. Rosette is not a typical LRGB target, but a narrowband target off course. The mono is with 60 min Ha, 40 min Oiii and 20 min Sii.
Please note that the OSC picture is framed 90 degree different, but it paints the picture.

With mono it is also way easier to combat light polution AND you can get creative with the color mapping (which sounds weird at first, but I actually really like this aspect!)

One thing that made my journey into Mono imaging a LOT easier is buying a stepper motor focuser (I have the Sesto Senso). You need to do more focusing when switching filters, and by having a stepper motor ascom focuser, you can partly automate the process (either by looking at the graph plotted to get best focus or go advanced with autofocus or filter offsets).

1. Go Mono 2. prepare to get frustrated for a few months 3. get your first result and 4. never look back....

Ah I see the flattener is not included idd. My apologies for suggesting it!  It can be so easy to go over budget in this hobby right? The Zenithstar 73 or 81 will give similar results I have no doubt. The resell value of WO scopes is also really high, so that will be the smart bet!

I am using a ASI1600mm pro with 7 ZWO filters. Mono imaging isn't the easiest route and in my experience takes some of the casual fun out of the hobby. I find I get stressed for clouds or dewing up once I collected the L, R & G channels but not the B yet!. However the results speak for itself. You get more detail and it's easier to combat light pollution somehow. Downside is that I am not using the 'full potential' of my Esprit, since the ASI1600 is only a 1 inch sensor and not APS-C or fullframe like DLSRs.

Interesting question.... here to listen

Maybe slightly off-topic, but can you use an Edge HD 9.25 in a fully remotely controlled observatory? Do you need to collimate/ mirror lock (whatever that means) every time you image or only every now and then? 

Esprit 80ED or WO Zenithstar 81, those are extremely high quality triplet refractors you wont ever need to upgrade from (if you want to stay in that focal range).

You can also opt to go bigger and get a 100/700 APO (doublet) like Technosky, but I'd rather buy the brands above.

I own the Esprit 100ED which is perfect match for the EQ6 and love it to bits. Pic attached ( 1st = full colour, 2nd = narrowband)

Last week, the outside wall was build, along with the fixed roof part. I have also prepared the 2 beams holding up the rolling roof by attaching 4 wheels to each beam. I've added metal plates to both ends of the shafts, so it should be really solid and not put direct force on the wood itself. Also the pier (bought second hand for 10 pound!) is nicely painted.

Out in a field with oh so cold feet.
The Skywatcher Esprit, is all that's receiving some heat.
This experience just doesn't feel right.
And after another sleepless night....
I'm giving up,
I really tried.

Hi SGL!

To increase my imaging time and decrease my morning moodiness, I've pulled the trigger and decided it's time to build a remotely controlled imaging observatory. It will be placed in a Bortle class 4 location (not the best, but in my dad's garden, so free access to electricity, land and WiFi! Plus a 'meat' robot on site to help if something gets stuck.

The design is very compact, because no human will be in the observatory, although it will be fully insulated to keep most moisture out. It's also big enough to be upgraded to a 9.25 Edge HD in the future once I run out of narrowband nebula;s to perfect. Next to the observatory part will be my dad's new shed. The sliding system is based on a garage door rail system, that is widely available and will lock the roof in all but the desired diretions of movement. In theory....

The observatory will house my Esprit 100ED on a EQ6R pro, with an ASI1600mm pro +7 filters, motor focuser, guidescope+cam and dew heaters. It will be operated by a Windows10 Intel NUC controlled via Teamviewer and N.I.N.A. The roof will open with an Arduino controlled electric gate opener system and the Arduino can also turn on the power for the entire system through 6 relays (apart from the NUC which is always on). Furthermore I've made a heated all sky camera box based on a new ASI120MC + 150 degree lens and a WiFi security webcam to provide a stand alone live feed.

We have already started construction last week, I'll share the pictures later!

Maybe this thread will inspire some people how (not) to do it  

2 hours ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

You must remember to take her out now and again ?

Steve

Hahahaha, nice ?

Tomorrow is both Saturday night AND clear skies ?

The new love of my life!! 

Haha yeah I saw his video too. Most of us have to save up to get a mount like this. A once in 5 year purchase (for me at least). He has a HEQ5 and a CEM60 standing, AND now an EQ6R Pro as well for free. Life isn’t fair eh?

btw, would it be fun for this owners club to meet up one day? If night preferably....