knobby

Definitely a problem there 👍🏻

My guess would be the screw that adjusts the worm tensioner movent is just too tight so the worm is held away slightly allowing it to jump teeth occasionally.

Easy fix if it is that though.

Info on YouTube.

Nice job Matt, I'd be well chuffed with that 👍🏻

You could try checking here https://www.astrobuysell.com/uk/propview.php all second hand but us astro lot do tend to look after our equipment.

not too hard to strip and clean 🤞🏻

Good luck.

It means opening up but I've seen grease on the encoder ... But I would have thought it would somehow time out rather than just turning round endlessly .Maybe try turning the aux encoder on or off ?

Oooh, now that looks interesting !

ASTAP doesn't need internet access as JamesF say's. I use ASTAP within APT, works really well blind or near.

Improved sensitivity ?

Pretty sure that the extension should be between scope and reducer - then you'll be able to focus but the distance between camera sensor and reducer will be closer to the 55 mm required. (mine was 61 and still not perfect)

Can you check the time between spikes and then google the info, might show the end / start of a worm rotation etc ?

On 26/03/2014 at 21:04, knobby said:

Looks interesting but I'd feel very deflated if it didn't work 🙂

Finally ...6 years and it gets a laugh 🙂

Thanks @kbrown 

5 minute guided Ha of the Pelican or as I now call it the Pterodactyl 🙂

If you get a good Az-Gti it will guide to about 2 arc seconds fairly consistently so a 300 to 400mm frac with a DSLR or something like a ZWO 1600 will work well.

Can you buy the Az-Gte as mount only ? My vote is for the AZ-Gti, but you've had 2 before ... what made you change ?

Will the mount move in RA at all ? Will it track without guiding ? As a last resort maybe try factory defaults / reset ?

That's excellent 👌

Hope you get it sorted Steve, out of interest ... there are two theories here, 1 is to leave very slightly loose so the spring pulls the worm against the larger gear or 2 to tighten down at the best balance of 'tight against the gear but not too tight'

My vote would be 1 - but I'm still not too sure as mine is now like this but I'm sure I had better results when it was on method 2 🙂

Thoughts please ?

I use a SW 72 ED / reducer /EFW/OAG/ ZWO 1600 pro on mine, Unguided it's not going to go over about 15 seconds without trailing but guided It works really well.

I get PHD2 graphs usually under 2 rms which is fine for my pixel scale.

Old picture, using an OAG now.

Nice job ... Extreme bunnies 🤣

Not too sure from the picture but a focus lock screw shouldn't stop you from focusing, it's more likely that you have an extension price or maybe the diagonal not fitted.

I maybe talking rubbish but is it worth trying to bin as the 1600 sensor at 1400 or 2000 mm is quite a high sampling ?

I'd contact Chroma as @whipdry says, they sound very helpful 👍🏻

I'm very new to narrowband but echo what Vlaiv says, I'm still torn between trying longer subs on Oiii and Sii or just taking more of them to increase total integration time.

I bought second hand tube rings, drilled them out and used short screws .

What did you stack with ? DSS always looks washed out and very dark till stretched and tweaked ... The gradients are most likely caused by the moon .