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About Bagnaj97

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  1. In your pics the circle K is also on the front of the lens cell after the D=76.2mm F=1250mm - no loup required!
  2. The printer's been busy today. Now I need to buy an ED80 to sit next to the ST80, roll on payday... The second bottom half is currently printing. I've discovered that ABS is horrible for prints this size, it really wants to warp. Masking tape and abs juice mostly works, but near the end of the print it's pulling the masking tape off the bed. I'm not sure PLA is durable enough for this (I don't store it anywhere warm, but might do some solar observing so it'll be sat in the heat). Has anyone printed in PETG? It's meant to have the durability of ABS but it's easier to print and doesn't stink - my concern is that it's more flexible and I don't want flexure - just how flexible/rigid is it? For testing I balanced the bottom piece and hung 3kg off either end (from the bolt holes) without the top in place and it was fine. Given that the actual load will be nearer the centre, the top will be in place to brace it and there will be the second pair of rings I've got absolutely no concerns about it not taking the weight of the scopes - I could almost certainly make it less chunky, but chunky and strong reduces the chance of flexure. Total weight of 2 top pieces, 2 bottom pieces, the handle and all the nuts and bolts is 509g, dovetail and any hex-thumbscrew adapters will be on top. I need to print some M6 hex thumbscrew thingies now. I did a test one to make sure I've got the internal dimensions correct (grey in second pic) but need to give it something to grip - a smooth cylinder isn't great. STLs and Sketchup files will go up on Thingiverse, but I've only just signed up and there's a 24hr block before new users can publish on there. It should appear here -
  3. I bought myself a Hictop Prusa i3 clone and put it together over the weekend. It's my first 3d printer but I did a fair bit of research before taking the plunge - lead screws, aluminium frame, heated bed, auto leveling and a good size build volume are what decided it in the end. I was pleasantly surprised at not having to solder or crimp anything either - just putting plugs in the right places! Has anyone tried printing tube rings? I've gained an ST80 but it was OTA only and I have no rings...
  4. According to the backyardEOS compatibility table the 350d requires a serial connection for bulb exposures, so if you're planning to PC control the camera I'd stick to 450d/1000d or newer. They have the benefit of live view too, which when zoomed in is helpful for focusing. I'd recommend Wex for used kit - unless otherwise stated all their used gear has a 12 month warranty. I've had a few bits and pieces from them and had no issues, although I've not had to test the warranty...
  5. That looks like a recipe for flexure to me. If you guide with a piggybacked ST80 you can still use the finder shoe on your primary OTA and the ST80 for a finder or 2 (guidescope and red dot etc if you want multiple) - like this:
  6. I'd seen that, but the ASI1600mm seems to suffer from the same thing. There are some examples in the ASI1600mm thread:
  7. Gpcam mono v1, ASI120mm and QHY5l-II-m all share the same sensor. The Gpcam v2 and the touptek cameras from FLO use the newer, more sensitive, AR130 sensor. All are good cameras, and mono cameras are much more sensitive than colour ones, so if it's purely for guiding stick to mono. To keep costs down I wonder if it's possible to use a Celestron travelscope 70 rather than the more usual ST80? Or something like this - But I think you'll struggle to get a guidescope and camera under £200 without going second hand. I picked up the older gpcam, rather than the AR130 sensor version, for £135 from Tring Astro, presumably to try and clear stock now the updated version is out. IanKingImaging seems to still have the older camera in stock for £135 too -
  8. Probably the ASI1600mm-cool. People seem to be getting good results with it and it's substantially cheaper than CCDs with a similar chip size. The QHY163 also looks good, but I haven't been able to find any info on whether it's ok with 1.25" filters - which I've already bought. Part of the reason for this experiment was to get used to what seems to be the ASI1600 way of imaging - lots of short, high gain, subs. There's a lot more potential to be had - there was something iffy going on with my calibration frames. PI was complaining about no correlation between the darks and lights (or something to that effect) and the final "calibrated" images are still a mess, apart from the crab Ha, which was quite clean considering it was only 15 mins of data.
  9. I bought myself a filter wheel and LRGB filter set in anticipation of being able to afford a dedicated cooled mono camera, but in the meantime I thought I'd try using my guide camera for imaging. This was my first attempt at mono imaging (and subsequent processing) and my first time using SGPro, so it was more of an experiment than a serious attempt! The visibility was also quite poor - 4 miles and red according to ClearOutside - and the sky was bright orange. M1 Crab Nebula 20x30s each of RGB, 30x30s each of Ha and Lum. 50x each of bias, flats and darks. Celestron C6n, AVX, Altair GPCAM Mono v1, Baader HaLRGB filters. M51 Whirlpool Galaxy 40x30s each of RGB, 90x30s Lum. 50x each of bias, flats and darks. Celestron C6n, AVX, Altair GPCAM Mono v1, Baader HaLRGB filters.
  10. There is a tiny bit of rotational play in the EOS adapter, so that could well be the culprit, but I think the problem is more likely the focuser not sitting square on the OTA. I don't want to spend too much time sorting it at the moment because I'm hopefully near the end of DSLR photography - I'm currently saving for a dedicated mono CCD/CMOS (Probably ASI1600mm-c). If that exhibits the same tilt problem then I'll try and fix it. I've recently bought a ZWO 8 slot EFW and Baader HaLRGB filters in anticipation of a "proper" mono camera, but in the meantime I might experiment with imaging using my Altair gpcam mono guide camera. Galaxy season is approaching and FOV calc tells me that with the gpcam I'll have an image scale of 1.03"/pixel and a fairly tight FoV, ideal for the Whirlpool, Black Eye, Sunflower and Sombrero galaxies and with M101 just about able to fit the frame. With such a small sensor and FoV the pictures should be relatively unaffected by tilt, assuming it's not something DSLR specific.
  11. Still need to sort the tilt somewhere because there's still some coma/elongated stars on the right hand side. There was a nasty LP gradient on the right as well, which has left some purple stars after removing it. Celestron C6n, AVX, modded 450d guided with 50mm guidescope and gpcam. 35x 300s lights (2hrs 55 mins), 20x flats, 20x bias
  12. I've got an AVX and C6n and I'm very happy with the mount, but the OTA required a better focuser. ASPA is a huge benefit for me, because my view north is completely obscured so I can't align on Polaris. I point the mount vaguely north, 2 star align, ASPA and then a quick drift align. Optically the 150PDS and C6n are the same, but the focuser on the PDS is better. I've replaced the focuser on my C6n with one of these and I've not had any problems reaching focus (apparently the 150p non-DS doesn't have enough focus travel), but it wasn't a straightforward swap - I had to drill new mounting holes and enlarge the central hole so the drawtube would fit. I use a 450d and GSO/Revelation/Altair coma corrector but I wouldn't expect that to make much difference. From the mount point of view, HEQ5 is slightly better than AVX but they're fairly comparable. Both are better than the EQ5, and for that reason I wouldn't recommend the 150PDS/EQ5 bundle. Those were all taken with my C6n on AVX. All that said, I wouldn't recommend either of those bundles. I'd actually suggest getting the HEQ5 and 130PDS separately (unless you can find them bundled!). You'll end up with a better mount and the shorter focal length of the 130PDS is more forgiving of PA/guiding errors.
  13. I built myself a battery box in the last couple of weeks, I used crimped connectors (mostly spade terminals) for all the connections, no soldering required. I've had a dig through my ebay history and these are the exact parts I used: The Basics 6mm red and black wire to go from battery to fusebox, and terminal block back to battery. 1m of each should be more than enough - 1.5mm red and black wire for the individual circuits. Order more than you think you'll need, experience tells me it's better to have spare than wait for a second order... - 30a circuit breaker - Blade fuse box. 6mm red wire from battery+ goes to the main terminal on this with the above breaker inline near the battery end - 12v cigar sockets - Terminal block. Connect your individual circuits into this, and the 6mm black wire back to battery-. - A bunch of crimp terminals - Ratchet crimping tool - You'll also need wire cutters/strippers, battery terminals, battery, appropriate blade fuses for the fuse box and a box to put it all in! I wouldn't fuse the individual circuits higher than 10a without using thicker wire. If you draw more than 30a total you'll trip the main breaker, but that should be plenty. If you use a bigger breaker, use thicker wire to the battery. Optional parts: Switches. You don't have to use them, you could leave the sockets live. You could use non-LED switches instead. - Combined voltmeter and 2x 2.4a USB outputs. USB power and battery voltage monitoring in a single device, very useful! - PWM controllers for dew strip control. There are other options, but these have the dial on a flying lead which makes mounting them easier. - Phono/RCA connectors. Standard connector used for dew strips - Heatshrink tubing and electrical tape is handy to have, just in case! Top panel. Layout was constrained by reinforcing plastic below, and I didn't measure anything: All wired up, room left around battery for insulation. I've since added a bit of plastic under the battery hold-down to cover and insulate the battery terminals: Wiring detail:
  14. Given the target audience I'd expect the scope to get a fairly hard life - I wouldn't suggest a newt with its open tube, exposed mirrors and need for collimation. The Heritage 90 mak is the same price as the 114p mentioned in OP, but should be a bit tougher. The mak is also probably better for solar system usage - 1250mm focal length vs 500mm for 114p.
  15. As I understand it the key is getting it somewhere in between. If you overexpose like that you blow the stars (like in your example and my Jellyfish) but get deeper/fainter details. If you underexpose you don't get so much faint nebulosity, but you get more star colour.