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dcwales2012

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About dcwales2012

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    South West Wales
  1. I'm in process of modding my 10" (250px) Flextube, and now I want to do the base and would appreciate some advice on a Lazy Susan. I would like to clarify I need to get the 350mm version? What size (m) / length (mm) centre bolt would I need to get to replace bog standard one? Do I need to add more Teflon washers to the centre bolt, or does everything now rest, rely, on Lazy Susan? If someone could advise if PTFE studs are better, I'd appreciate that input as well. Many thanks.
  2. Hi Tinker, Thanks for reply and advice. Well it finished, and for a bloke with the full use of only one hand, I'm pleased with result. My wife was a great help. Next, the setting circle, but that might be out of my capability.
  3. Hi, Adding a fan to my dob. Followed all the great posts on modding, and thanks for the tips. Quick question. Do you cut one hole directly under fan, or many smaller holes? I'm using 6mm plywood, which is a b*gger to cut with a jig saw; splitting, so was wondering if drilling lots of holes would be just a affective as get air down tube? Thanks
  4. Hi, Sounds to me that you might be missing a piece from the flange plate (small plate, 4 screws, 1 grub screw, focuser tightening knob). Take this off and in the underside is a Teflon sleeve which tightens the focuser spindle against the focuser tube. You should have a black plastic shimmy, covered by a white Teflon shimmy. It sounds like the white one is missing, because thus would account for tube not being held tight. If you have removed the plate, the shimmy mat well be on the floor. Otherwise contact your supplier. Chris Sent from my Radar C110e using Tapatalk
  5. Hi Mitch, Thanks. Funny thing is. The auto focuser fits nicely on my 150, no slack, didn't need to adjust tension screw at all. So I'm wondering if the holes for the plate on the scope aren't deep enough to take the longer screw. I will find a long pin and measure the depth on both scopes to rule this out. BTW, watch all his video's, most enlighting, even if I still slightly dubious about some of the collimation.
  6. Hi, Just wondering if anyone has encountered a problem fitting SW Auto Focus to Flextube 250px. I put one on mine and the focus tube has a lot of slop, yet the new longer screws are done up tight. If I adjust, tighten, the focus tube tension screw, the auto focuser will not move. If I slacken the screw off, the focuser is too loose and will not move. Has anyone encountered a similar problem, and could the new screw be too long; ie fitting the bottom of screw hole without tightening the plate. Thanks David
  7. Update, Got hold of Tesco Hudl; with club card boost for £60. For the price it is well worth a punt. Loaded all the astronomy software I wanted and they work a treat. No lag, low light red screen apps and works well outside in dark. Just need it to stop raining so I can use it with flex tube. Added bonus, has HDMI output so can connect to TV for BT Sport via internet. We don't get fibre out in the sticks, only copper wire, but the performance of the hudl watching BT sport was better than on galaxy tab 2 10.1. For 60 notes I'm impressed.
  8. Collimation World, aaah so the place does exsist. Collimation tells lies - why do I believe that. A secondary can look centred in the Cheshire, plus one can see the clips, and the crosshairs line up. Adjust primary so donut lines up with secondary and collimation is spot on. Yet on the right hand side when viewing down Cheshire one can see the focuser guide wheel. Secondary too far down tube, yet collimation indicated everything was correct and no error. Another error I have found, is put tilt onto secondary, and then twist the mirror until it appears centred in Cheshire, adjust allen screws to align secondary mirror in Cheshire. Align with primary, and your scope is in theory collimated. What I found out was secondary had a rotation error, and a tilt error which placed a strain on one allen screw. But again, collimation appeared to be correct. I have changed the way I collimate from the norm, to get better results because of the errors. I agree a small amount of tilt and rotation is not critical. Happy collimating. :-)
  9. Not sure how much you know, so I'm sorry if I'm teaching you how to suck eggs. Basically, the secondary mirror fixes to the spider hub by the means of the large centre screw, which one turns left or right to move the secondary up and down the tube to centre it in the focuser, and 3 small Allen screws. Sometimes when the scope comes from supplier the secondary is badly fitted and can be tilted or rotated in the spider holder. Yet, it can still appear centred in the Cheshire/Cap because the 3 allen screws have been adjusted to compensated for this. To see if the secondary is square, i.e. equal distant; all around, away from the spider hub, one uses a mirror held inside spider to be able to see where secondary joins spider hub to check this. If your secondary is not set at equal distance all the way around, your probably end up adding more rotation and tilt. So I would suggest secondary alignment to spider holder first, then move secondary up/down tube as required to centre in focuser tube, then line up with Cheshire using 3 Allen screws. Hope this helps.
  10. I'm a great believer in; collimation tells lies, and I've had a discussion about this before, which Moonshane contributed too. Your secondary may look centred in the colli cap, or Cheshire eyepiece, but you need to check to see if its square in the spider. Take a small mirror and see if its seated at an equal distance all around in the holder. If its not, then collimation will not be achieved correctly. You can't see any clips in my 10" flextube and the secondary was way out even when the Cheshire appeared to indicate it was spot on. I tried my 6" 150p where I can see the clips in the Cheshire, yet when checking secondary mirror its was tilted in the holder. So I would suggest getting secondary square first, then align with cap or Cheshire.
  11. Had the same set up for 20 months. Mount movement was very stiff when I received it. To get any reduction fiction I had to slacken off so much it caused too much slop. Took assembly apart decrease and used lithium grease, then reassembled. Movement was free'er, but still very slack. Too much wobble when observing, so I bought an EQ5 instead, had no problems till I tripped over dog and crushed the mount. Now have a 250px Flextube, and a very happy chappy I am. Sent from my Radar C110e using Tapatalk
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