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  1. It will depend on the severity of your astigmatism. An astigmatism that need more correction will become apparent at a smaller exit pupil. When the exit pupil is small enough so that the surface of your eye lens is locally distortion free you won't notice the astigmatism. That's the way I understand it. You'd have to look into what the numbers on your perscription mean in term of degree of distortion of the native eye surface.
  2. I have the 7.5mm ultrascopic and it's a very nice eyepiece. I haven't had much chance to use it since recieving it but impressed so far. I don't know why they are so nice but probably due to the 'made in Japan'. They traditionally seem to be good opticicians over there
  3. Looking forward to the full review It's interesting that they've doen this to the AFOV, widened the ortho and constricted plossl from the previous standard. Unless the design of lenses has changed they must have sacrificed some perfomance for the ortho afov. The proof will be in the test though.
  4. I'm not an imager but from what I've seen around the forum yes. RikM the mod used to image with a 150p on an eq3 and his shots were good. I think when you you use mounts below a heq5 for imaging the main problem is not their reduced load capacity which is relatively easy to stay under but the accuracy of the motor and gears whcih contribute to increased periodic error. Heq5 and above are more accurate and don't jiggle about due to gear tolerances. That's how I understand it anyway but you'd want some input from someonoe with experience in the area. An eq3 with dual drives can be modded for auto guiding and there are threads on it on the forum. I remember quatermass has quite a few threads on modding eq5 motors, there are others but I can't remember. An eq3 with motor and camera should be ok, the shorted the lnes focal length on the camera the less accurate the guiding will have to be
  5. reckon the eq3 would be. skywatcher package the 6" newt with the eq3 and you're wanting to but a 5" newt on it. Assuming that skywatcher will match a scope with the minimum mount due to profit margins then putting a scope next size down on the mount should make a fairly stable set up. remember that if you're going to use your heritage dovetail on an eq mount that the eyepiece might end up in a weird place and you won't be able to spin the scope round.
  6. +1 this. Don't try and clean it off, it won't do your scope any harm just drying naturally
  7. I should add that for the time being you might be surprised how easy it is to track by hand with the RA control whilst saving for a motor. I use my mount in alt az and eq mode and miss the smoothness and the one control tracking of eq when in alt az.
  8. Up to you really, the single RA will give you the tracking you want but RA + DEC will be more convenient I suppose. Just comes down to how much you want to spend. Keep an eye on ABS, I've noticed them come up a few times.
  9. Moon is a great film, I was lucky that i hadn't hear about it before I watched it so came away surprised at the plot. I like it when films do that.
  10. As standard it has the vixen dovetail holder from what I've seen on supplier sites but if you're buying second hand of course you should get confirmation that it still has this from the seller
  11. nope its a step down from the heq5 with about half the payload iirc but it will be solid with your heritage. from what i've seen it'll take a 6" newt/4" frac nicely but you could go larger if you balance things nicely
  12. yep all dslrs have manula focus option in addition to auto focus that i know of. The lens diameter of a dslr is a bit of a mismatch for an eyepiece lens though, i would stick to the compact and the afocal mount wouldn't be able to handle a dslr Not too worry about it being auto only, it just means that camera positioning will be more critical. Mine is auto focus only too and I've managed to get some shots. Counter weights are something that can be added later, there's stuff everywhere that you can fix to the shaft for the required weight. Sellotape and variants are your friend . So long as everything else is alright with the mount.
  13. I understand I'm ok at making things but never seem to have the time to do it! Still might be something to do, doesn't have to look pretty. Seems a good price for the eq5 but I haven't looked in to sh prices much. I would probably buy it if I was looking. No counterweights isn't a problem; when I wanted a lighter counterweight I just put some coins from my penny jar in a bag and gaffer taped it to the shaft. Regarding afocal photographry, can your camera manual focus? If it's auto only it can be a bit of pain sometimes but it shouldn't stop you from having a go
  14. If tracking is what you're after have you thought about making an equatorial platform. Something that caught my eye once is the link below http://www.umich.edu/~lowbrows/reflections/2010/yinugi.4.html Not sure how good you are at making stuff but with a bit of planning and cunning foraging you might be able to knock one up cheaply. As for you wobbly table can't you find something to put under/brace the legs. I'm just thinking that if cost is making you look at an eq2 plus motor (I think new thhis will be around the £150 mark, maybe more) maybe you can try a very cheap bodge at the moment and save for a mount that will take future scopes. Regarding the mount for compact cameras this is the sort of thing you want http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p219_Digiklemme---Universal-Digital-Camera-Adaptor.html. I'd be careful sticking you lens housing in as a eyepiece as if it moves to focus or has an auto power off feature you could end up with a busted lens motor. The way the mount works is that in the daytime you set your camera up with an eyepiece attached to the mount, make sure the camera is focussed to the eyepiece by focussing your telescope on something and keep the eyepiece attached and then use it at night. That way you're not messing about with the camera focus, only the telescope focus in the dark
  15. I have an eq2 upon which my 4 inch mak sits. The mak weighs ~2kg. I wouldn't want to be put much more weight or moment arm on it but for my scope I think it's a great mount. Having wanted the answer to the same question I remember this thread http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/56725-eq2-load-bearing/ The 130p closed tube newt gets packaged with the eq2 and I haven't read many complaints regrading stability but I reckon that would be it's limit for an enjoyable experience. I wouldn't even think about an eq1 I think an additional question you should be asking yourself is why do you want an equatorial mount? Is it because you want the versatility of a tripod for your heritage, for an upgrade or because you want tracking? If it's because you want a tripod but you're happy with the alt-az motions of your heritage then I would look for alt-az az4 or astro-tech voyager (if you want slow motion controls). If you're looking for an upgrade of scope then you'd want something heftier than an eq2. If you want tracking and you're buying a new mount for it I would go for eq3 minimum probably eq5 to future proof. It's up to you if you want motors, I personally don't bother as I've got used to twiddling the RA so that I can keep objects on axis with no wobbles. I wouldn't worry about polar aligning for visual, I can't see polaris from my main observing spot but have worked out good polar alignment after a few observing sessions.
  16. I've seen structure in the bands and in the GRS, plus the structure following the GRS but I've had to wait for the moments of clear seeing. In a 4" mak. To give an idea what I mean by waiting for clear seeing out of a 2 hour observing session concentrating on Jupiter I have seen this detail for an estimated total of 5 minutes in sharp bursts. Seeing is pretty bad from my balcony . Most of the time it is bands and the GRS, whilst the spot itself is low contrast but visible most of the time it looks like a cream wedge taken out of the brick coloured band. Takes some concentration and patience to see it.
  17. I would go for the 130p over the 1145. The larger mirror of the 130p means it will last them a lot longer as they'll be able to see more objects
  18. Do you think you can turn it up to 11? I've had second thoughts as if that scope is a 10" the keytar would put my back out.
  19. I wonder how much they want for the keytar in the background....
  20. He certainly was, the Russians used his libration maps for their missions photographing the far side of the moon too.
  21. No problem. Working out proper referencing can take a silly amount of time compared to the work sometimes
  22. from what i can see of the pdf there is no author or year of plublication so providing details on how to get the document will be enough. So long as you provide this you won't get in trouble for plagiarism and you've provided the reader with source information and cited it as not your own work, There isn't much else you can do in this situation. Here's a link to the Harvard system for citations for electronic stuff if you want to read more about it http://www.lc.unsw.edu.au/onlib/ref_elec1.html#elec3
  23. ALL MODELS WITH EQ3-2 AND EQ5(EQ4) MOUNT,accessed 10th December 2012,<www.skywatcher.com/swtsupport/Instruction_Manuals/GENERAL_EQ3and5.pdf> would be the way to do it
  24. If you're having trouble getting the exact details you can just reference the webpage for example Skywatcher Equatorial Mount Manual, accessed PUT THE DATE HERE, http://www.webaddress
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