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ndastgir

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About ndastgir

  • Rank
    Star Forming

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    DSO, Astrophotography
  • Location
    Sutton, Surrey
  1. That would be excellent. Apparently two German guys have developed an ASCOM focus controller for stepper bee and seems like the code will be available soon on the ASCOM download website.
  2. I have recently bought a Stepper Bee board and stepper motor to build a computer controlled autofocuser. The stepper bee software works like a trean on a PC and the clumsy assembly that I made to connect the stepper motor to the focuser also works fine. Then I started thinking it would be nice if I could find an ASCOM driver that could control the Stepper Bee. that way I could perform automatic focusing. Before I start to develop the code myself I did some search on the internet but could not find anyone who has successfully developed such code. I found a thread about dome control with stepper bee & ASCOM however, and I am thinking perhaps the codes could be similar. Does anyone knows of any code / plug-in that has already been develped? Is anyone using Stepper Bee for autofocusing? I can really use some advise. Thanks, Naeim
  3. Interesting topic! made me check the metoffice site and confirm that weather is going to be cr*p at least untill monday, great! I remember someone on the forum was saying that people buying new gears and scopes brings the bad weather, so, who has bought new stuff this time???
  4. Hi Steve, I've got the LVI 2. When I read the manual it sounded really complicated and lots of steps. but when I used it outside for the first time, it was actually quite easy. the hard part was to point to a bright star and the problem was that I was using a finderscope bracket, so the movement of the guidescope was very limited. now built guidescope rings and it is new very easy. even when I pick a star up to about 10 degrees offset the result is good. I have never used a skywatcher synguider. It is much cheaper but the reason I picked the LVI2 with MGA to be able to control the DSLR directly with it (have not doe that part yet thought) Naeim
  5. very good point, thanks. forgot about those guys I will give them a call today
  6. I am thinking of using two hefty brackets that are usually used for supporting chimney breast when they remove an old fireplace. if it holds the whole weight of 1 ton of chimney bricks, sure it can support my tiny scope and mount but I keep thinking thermals...
  7. Many thanks guys for the replies. the sky crane is insane! very inspiring indeed. but I cant use something like that because my floors are wooden and not still enough for imaging. I can see it will require substantial amount of work fixing large brackets onto the walls... but from what I can see, thermals is going to be my main problem. I can do the polar alighnment using a webcam or a imaging/guiding camera. and the leave the scope and mount on the bracket. my mount is a EQ3-2 goto and the scope is equinox ed80. with LVI smartguider and a dslr, thw whole package weighs just below 6kg + mount. and i do mosty imaging and not much observing. so thoughts of sitting inside my room and control the telescope and process images from there is really tempting... If i eventually went ahead with this idea i will post pictures. clear skies! naeim
  8. I am not sure which section/category this question would belong to, so I post it here for now. Has anyone ever thought of mounting the mount on a bracket on a wall? now the reason I ask this: from my garden I have a 180 degrees view from south to north through west. and my study is on the second floor. I was wondering, instead of dragging all my kits, scope, laptop, etc. out into the garden, can I fix a couple of brackets to the wall outside my study window and fix the mount on it? it iwll roughly give me the same view, in fact because it's higher up, i will get better view of near horizon objects... is this too crazy? has anyone thought of this before, or even better, done this before that could advise what was their final decision?? Many thanks, Naeim
  9. If the LXUSB setting did not work, select "Windows WDM-style webcam" camera at 800x600? this mode has worked on 4 different (unmodded) webcams for me.
  10. 550D is too good to ruin it. If you are patient enough you can find a second hand body-only on ebay. I remember I seeing a 450D with broken screen that was sold for £80.
  11. Yes, I've read Gina's thread on modding and cooling, very interesting read and I must say I learnt a lot... but I couldn't resist the temptation of hyper-modding
  12. yes, as I've heard debayering is a very delicate process. I saw a few images of debayered sensors. the images look stunning and it is not until you see a flat image that all the unevenness of the sensor cleanness it revealed. I tried debayering a webcam with a very strong paint solvent. it successfully dissolved the bayer matrix, the microlenses and melted the sensor itself! now I know one way of NOT debayering
  13. I have thought about debayering, but couldn't find anyone who has been 100% successful. I am really interested to see how you do the debayering and what the result is.
  14. I read a few comments and reviews that suggested a hyper-modded and cooled gives you results as good as QHY8L. Well, that's a £900 camera that I really like to buy one day. But until then I thought I cam wreck my 450D that perhaps worth around £200 which I already opened once to remove the IR filter. I started removing bits and pieces one by one and checking if the camera works. after I removed the back panel and it worked I was confident that I could do it. But when it came to cutting the top panel ribbon, standing there with a pair of scissors, it took me a good half hour to decide, but I started cutting that too and it worked! Now I cant wait for a clear night to see if it worth all the stress (well, after I finish butting it in a proper box that is)
  15. No I didn't but I am thinking about it now! thanks for the idea
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