Ricker

How about a table tennis table cover. Cheap on Amazon. 

I use an a3 pad for my 10" newt. Tube diam is about 270mm. A couple of laminated a3 sheets of paper over it.  I also modified it to control the brightness with an Arduino.  Works a treat.  Just use reasonably long exposures as the pads flicker. 

I would suggest that you could try startools.  Wipe can flatten uncalibrated frames. Free to try. 

I used the DC fix stuff shown earlier in this thread to flock my 10inch and st80 Newtonian. I did it in a lot of small panels around the tube. And up the focusser tube.  Also put the same stuff on the back of my primary and permanent marketed the edges of primary and secondary. It's remained well attached for 8 years now. 

Try siril IC. This explains the process. 

I use I use SirilIC to create a project for my images. This allows different sessions to be used. 

Awesome. Really enjoyed the video. 

Having purchased a AF2 focusser around Oct 2018 the service received then was exemplary. On arrival all was good but after about a month the usb port on the focusser detached from the control board. No problems. This was replaced without question and within the week I was up and running again. 

Now 2.5 years later following some issues with my AF2 DeepSkyDad provided a free upgrade to AF3 that addresses the issues I have been having. This upgrade arrived and within the week I was up and running again. 

Awesome service all round. Thank you. 

What PSU are you using?

I think there needs to be a bit of extra work on the UI. Being able to save stacking projects. 

Try an A3 tracing light off Amazon. 

Sharpcap is great for polar alignment. 

The tripod being level makes no difference. The polar axis has to be aligned regardless. I would suspect that the polar scope reticle is not aligned in the polar scope. 

I use to scope to make sure the polar axis is roughly aligned and then sharpcap to align.

Startools is regularly updated. +1 from me.

I stack in DSS

Process  in Startools. 

Tweak in Gimp

The image attached is doing just this. 

Many thanks. I have been using ascom apt sharpcap on a laptop with 15m usb 3 lead and was just trying an alternative. Sounds like I should stick with my current setup. 

Forgive my terminology but when using Astroberry when running Kstars on a remote (to the rasp pi) pc images can take a number of seconds to download.  For my ASI1600 this is about 5s.  Does this sound average (obviously WiFi dependent)? 

Also do people run like this or do they run EKOS on the Pi?

AnyDesk

Rich

I would suggest that many ppl would want just a rotator and not necessarily a derotator, that would simplify things. 

Fantastic job. Well impressed. 

You should go into production. I would buy one. 

ASTAP has a free ccd inspector feature. 

Works fine for me. If you examine the log it will tell you why the frame hasn't stacked. It is usually because it couldn't align or maybe the fwhm threshold has been exceeded.

You can turn off all of these featires to get it to stack.

I also notice you are guiding. It could be because it is not connected to PhD. 

Second telescope I brought was a 12" Dark Star dobsonian. Many happy nights starhopping. Amazing when you think I saved up for it whilst working a Saturday job for 9 pounds a day. 

Does anyone have recommendations for a 12v 10amp regulated power supply suitable for use outdoors?

I need this to power an EQ6, zwo 1600 camera dew bands and zwo eaf 

I have used plywood and cable ties for holding stuff as power and usb hubs. 

This looks excellent. I am thinking something very similar. However I am cautious of condensation. What are your ventilation plans?