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Everything posted by Ricker

  1. I would suggest that many ppl would want just a rotator and not necessarily a derotator, that would simplify things. Fantastic job. Well impressed.
  2. You should go into production. I would buy one.
  3. ASTAP has a free ccd inspector feature.
  4. Works fine for me. If you examine the log it will tell you why the frame hasn't stacked. It is usually because it couldn't align or maybe the fwhm threshold has been exceeded. You can turn off all of these featires to get it to stack. I also notice you are guiding. It could be because it is not connected to PhD.
  5. Second telescope I brought was a 12" Dark Star dobsonian. Many happy nights starhopping. Amazing when you think I saved up for it whilst working a Saturday job for 9 pounds a day.
  6. Does anyone have recommendations for a 12v 10amp regulated power supply suitable for use outdoors? I need this to power an EQ6, zwo 1600 camera dew bands and zwo eaf
  7. The link for this does not seem to work. I am interested in this.
  8. I have used plywood and cable ties for holding stuff as power and usb hubs.
  9. This looks excellent. I am thinking something very similar. However I am cautious of condensation. What are your ventilation plans?
  10. Kicking myself for not trying to get the one you advertised earlier now I have seen filters come up too.
  11. Do you need to be worried about how level your tripod is for polar alignment. Seems to me the altitude adjustment tips the mount anyway...
  12. Glad you have it sorted. It does sound like the same approach. Rich
  13. For what it is worth this is what I do. 1. Polar align using polar scope. 2. Refine the polar alignment with Sharp Cap Pro. 3. Go to the object of interestin and platesolve, it will not be in the FOV (it will be a few degrees off). The using the tools available, APT/Sharpcap and I am sure other refine the positioning automatically. For example in Sharpcap there is the option to platesolve, sync and goto. This will then add a point into the pointing model, then move the scope to the requested coordinates. 4. Done. As you observe more objects the pointing will get better but why expend time upfront aligning when platesolve and APT/Sharpcap and others will get you to the objects of interest.
  14. I would get a box that when your scope is stood up on it places the dovetail at the height on the mount. Attach the scope to the mount in this position. Then use the mount to rotate the scope up to the home position
  15. Great suggestion. I shall give it a go tonight. Ampglow is a frustration.
  16. Thanks for the tip but Amp glow is part of the dark signal. The flat is a measure of sensitivity variation across the sensor. So darks should be enough to remove it,.
  17. I am imaging with a ZWO 178mc-cooled and am having trouble removing amp glow. I am using darks in the same conditions as lights and stacking and imaging with SharpCap. I am left with a image looking like below. No matter what I do I seem to be always left with this residual amp glow signature, Any ideas out there? Rich
  18. Guess what? I have just been trying to remove my clips from my SW 250 and the first two screws I have tried have sheared. Felt tight but seemed to turn. Guess it was just the screw twisting. So I now have a mirror cell with 5 clips . Think I will leave it at 5 for now but would ultimately would like to sort it out. Did you sort yours Jez? If so how? My first thoughts are to contact my brother in law to see if he can sort it (works in an engineering shop). But this will require me removing all other clips. I am very cautious now as the other clip screws seem to be equally tight. Is this normal? Rich
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