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About dunc

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  • Interests
    Astronomy (Duh!), fettling and tinkering, doing stuff, the beach, walking, cycling, having a nice time.
  • Location
    Manche, France
  1. I got this working with Alpaca Server on my RPi4b running Raspbian (set up initially with AstroPi3) so I could use the Pi on my scope and connect to it from Windows i.e. my laptop, using APT, PHD2. I managed to get it working but it proved a bit flakey so I've gone back to running the scope and capture on the RPi and VNC into it. The trouble with using INDI or ALPACA servers is you then have two points of failure, the server and the client. I prefer it all to run on the same machine, whether laptop or RPi so if it doesn't work I have can simply replace with a laptop or the pi and continue imaging.
  2. I use silvered radiator reflector stuff on my 8" Meade. Steadies the image well and plenty on the roll for a fiver.
  3. Hi BrendanC, I would think it has to be the effective focal length of the entire optical train including flattener, coma corrector, reducer and whatnot and anything else such as filters so that the displacement of the line is calculated correctly but think a bit more it shouldn't matter for exact focus, only when APT is trying to tell you how close you are to exact focus, as focus i.e. intersection of the three lines, is always at 0 displacement regardless of the optics, which is the point of the Bahtinov method. There, I sound like I may know what I'm talking about! I've used APT for years and the Original Bahtinov Grabber for longer - which I still prefer as I find its display clearer than the APT version. Duncan
  4. I've got a RaspberryPi running AstroPi3, pretty much the same as an ASIAir. It is welded with a sticky rubber sheet (car phone holder) to a 20000mAh usb power pack and a double power lead to give 3.1amps capability which will keep it going for hours running a guide cam, arduino PnP focuser and ASI294 (uncooled). I strap it to the tripod as I don't want excess load on the StarAdventurer with my Sharpstar 61EDPH, there is only one USB cable to it from the ASI294 and a 5 volt power lead for the focuser so cables management is simple.
  5. That's what I've done, I use 10 as the offset and also no bias frames and I use darkflats. I'm not the best processor but achieved this a couple of weeks ago with my Sharpstar 61EDPH.
  6. I've ordered a 4GB PI4 and might get it in July according to the site KUBII (I'm in France). Initially I aim to put INDIGO on it and use APT to remotely control things (it has INDIGO support). Really I want to go the EKOS / Kstars route so I don't need a PC just a tablet to monitor things, much more portable. Another project on the go!
  7. I've had this in CdC for a while now, the indicator is off target when the target is plainly in the middle of the picture and the EQMOD sync data has been added to by a close by platesolved sync. I just ignore it, tried all sorts and no difference. I always save the model data on park and reload it as I have an observatory but it needs a clear out every now and then.
  8. First get EQASCOM/EQMOD (same thing sort of). You need a cable to connect your mount to the laptop. Ditch the ST4 cable (camera to mount) as its ancient tech. You can use the serial update cable and handset in PC direct mode but a better option is to get an EQDIR module which is essentially a TTL to USB cable, easy to get on ebay. Check the voltage for the mount, its either 3.3v or 5v. Wire it as per the info on EQMOD/EQASCOM website, this is the relevant PDF. Should be a doddle for you! The site is full of info, you need to get EQMOD set up with your location. Anything that needs to connect to the mount e.g. Carte de Ciel (planetarium for telling the mount where to point), PHD2 should connect to EQASCOM via the 'EQASCOM 5/6' option in the appropriate dialog. In CdC you can set your location to 'Telescope' (type it in) and it will pick it up from EQMOD. Hope that helps Duncan
  9. Probably mostly because guidescopes are usually around f2 and your 120ED is f7.5. You should use SharpCap Pro to do an analysis of your imaging train and suggest an exposure, gain and offset. I have a 294 and for my sky (which is quite dark when the streetlamps go out at 11pm) it recommends E250s G121 (unity - my choice) Offset 4 (yes 4) and I get very nice images (mostly - as you may see on my site). This is with an f4 scope so a good bit 'faster' than your 120ED. I love my 294 but it took me a year to get the best out of it, happy snapping! Hope that helps, Duncan
  10. The technique I used was to look on Google Earth and find fairly distant object North of the pier location and line up on that by eye, not very accurate but at least you won't be at the mercy of iron and magnetic fields (steel ducting, brake drum, bolts!). I was pretty much spot on and have plenty of azimuth adjustment for my NEQ6.
  11. It's just a ploy to part the fool from his money, a toy for a wealthy twit, you'd be better off with a superyacht to get to dark skies and and a deckchair and stabilised binos to watch the stars when the captain turns the lights out for you. Now where's my Euromillions ticket...
  12. You've got a lot of galaxies for 80mins of subs! Very nice. I've tried this area and most of the galaxies seem to be non-spiral, and if they are they are edge on. So blobs it is...
  13. I have used APT with an 1000D and 1100D simultaneously as well as 1100D and ASI296MC Pro combination, works flawlessly. I look forward to trying NINA to do the same.
  14. Globular clusters are good targets when there is a bit of Moon in the other half of the sky. I'm particularly happy getting colour and detail in NGC5263 at the bottom and there are some other galactic blobs around as well. The sky was excellent and I am lucky to live in a 21.47 dark zone (when the street lights go out at 23:00). 41 of 50 x 250s, Gain 121 (unity +1 for luck), Offset 4, Temperature -15c. Stacked using PI BatchPreprocessingFD (Micheal Covington version) so Flat Darks are used instead of Bias frames. The stacked image was then saved as 32 bit uncompressed TIF and loaded into StarTools for stretching, gradient removal, colour correction, deconvolution, denoising and saving as JPG (seems to have a very good algorithm for this). Image date, time and location: 2019-04-12 23:00-01:00CET Manche, France Telescope aperture and focal ratio: TS1506UNC f4, TS Komakorr Camera and filters used: ZWO ASI294MC Pro, Baader Neodymnium 1.25" filter Processing applied: Pixinsight, StarTools, Irfanview
  15. Hi CJDawson This may not be directly applicable but I have an ASI294MC Pro and have struggled with issues like this for a year. I was using the default offset of 30 as set by the driver at install and unity gain. I tried increasing the offset with no positive benefit. I recently ran the Sensor Analysis and Smart Histogram in SharpCap Pro and it suggested an offset of 4 which surprised me. But low and behold I now get lovely well calibrated images with lots of signal. I was just about to sell the camera before this! Hope that helps Duncan
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