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About dishmop

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    West Sussex
  1. http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_7-hardware/windows-7-driver-for-canon-eos-300d/d8917040-dd26-45f8-80f5-51cb4b94d597 "Dutch Canon support reacted really fast and suggested to go to the menu on the Camera, select a tap (on mine the last tap) where you get the "communications" item change this from "normal" to ptp and off you go. Camera is communicating with windows 7 again."
  2. I'd go with guiding - even though you won't get the full reds, the longer exposures are pretty awesome and there's plenty of objects to master. I have the same mount as you with an old 200p and can do 15min exposures no problem. You will still want to get the mod on the camera done at some point down the line after you spent a few months perfecting the longer exposures
  3. For comparison, I had to do a handful of 10/15 minute subs with an LP filter on with my 200p just to get this: http://www.flickr.co...90989/lightbox/
  4. Wow, for 30 second subs off a 200p, that's a great quality image. Is there much light pollution nearby ?
  5. Since a picture says a thousand words - by way of explanation:
  6. I bought the same focuser myself (that you linked in the top post there, the FLO crayford). I bought an old second hand blue tube 200p, and this dual-speed focuser required holes to be drilled in the tube as it wouldn't align where the old focuser was. Fortunately for me, the holes were pre-drilled in my second hand tube. If you have a newer 200p model this should just let you swap it in directly with no faffing around. I use it for AP with both webcam and my DSLR - I don't have any problems with focusing with my eyepieces either. It's not clear from the picture on FLO but the adjusting screws on the far side of the drawtube is to hold the 1.25" adaptor in place, and the one on the near side lets you extend out the drawtube for your eyepieces to work nicely.
  7. Was just about to post something similar.. over 15FPS I think you start to get compression which degrades the quality. More FPS isn't necessarily better in this case.
  8. This post here http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=94000 suggests it might be the USB cable?
  9. Well it *sounds* like you're doing everything right from what you say - how vexing !
  10. Hm. Well, I'm using APT to do the flats, 20 or so. Don't move the camera around in focuser after doing the lights, you have to do the flats without adjusting anything to do with the camera's position in the focuser. I'm using a white plastic tabletop with two overhead lights, just lying the scope down on the floor and pointing at the table top which I lay on its side to the top of the table points to the scope aperture. After the flats are done, assuming there was no movement of the camera relative to the telescope focuser and no shadows or other obvious anomalies on the whitish object you're using, you then just use them in your stacking program. I'm using APT for doing this, so it's pretty straight forward. Does any of that sound very different to what you're doing?
  11. What is it about flats that you are having problems with?
  12. Yes and no. The flats will correct the vignetting effect, which isn't anything to do with light pollution. However the gradient from the sodium lights is removable. I have a LP filter which specifically blocks the wavelength of the sodium streetlights in our area and that helps massively (screws onto the end of the 2" canon t-adaptor). There is also some software called GradientXTerminator (http://www.rc-astro....entXTerminator/) which may help you if you have photoshop or similar and want a software solution - they have a trial available. I have a similar problem to you with the core, so I hope someone will help reply to this. My effort (with the LP filter mentioned) of 2x10 min subs and 1x20 min subs is below:
  13. Thanks John. I am very pleased to have some some visual and a webcam capture before Mars gets "too far" away. I am still rather irked with the laser collimator though, I think it'll end up on astro buy & sell before long !
  14. Right. So just resurrecting this thread... Tonight I was able to see polar caps and some of that "black splodge" details on mars, going up from 2x Barlow, 3x Barlow and finally my 3x barlow stacked into my 2x barlow, using a 6.9mm Meade plossl. (Oh the depths you have to plumb with a short focal length...) So how come I was able to do and get visible detail that given I was getting a red blob before? The reason is the collimation was way off. The laser collimator I had said everything was lined up. I bought the bullet and got a cheshire collimator which revealed that everything inside was WAY off. I can't believe just how totally wrong the laser device was! Just to show success, I whipped out the old SPC880 and the IR filer.
  15. I use one of these: ABC Products® USB to 9 Pin DB9 Serial RS-232 converter: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics plugged into my HEQ5 Pro handset to do guiding or control it via the laptop.
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