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7170

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About 7170

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  1. I forgot to add, if you live in the UK then this is a great time to be looking for Vesta. If you observe at UTC 00:00:00 on Apr 9th/10th it will be at dec. c+18.7°, after which it start to get lower again. You will have to wait until September 2023 before it gets any higher than that in the sky here in the UK again. Thank you once again to @CentaurZ for jogging my mind on Vesta's opposition and ideal placement at the moment for UK observers.
  2. Taken between 2021-02-18 22:28:41 and 22:41:59 UTC. Start location was 08:41:41.499+14:23:34.10 (J2000).
  3. Thank you for for the heads up - been a while since I've imaged Vesta. Taken light night - 2021-02-18T23-11-08 to 2021-02-18T23-51-17 UTC. Starting point - 11:30:05.654+14:10:20.58 (J2000). Reduced in size so the gif isn't too large.
  4. I'm a bit late to the show but I just managed 12 from here is SW London. Eyes not fully adapted to the dark as clouds just stopped play.
  5. Given the endless cloudy nights we’ve had here in the UK since September I’m surprised demand for astro gear from people taking up the hobby is high at all! I suspect once things get back to normal many people who dabbled in astronomy over lockdown for the first time will return to previous interests that can be pursued once again.
  6. I’m interested to know if many people rotate their final images so North is up and East is on the left? Or do you not change the orientation, or just change to improve aesthetics. I do this for double star images where I overlay measurement markings. But I note some people on their websites seem to present all images North up, East left (or they have on scope rotators that are perfect each time ). Just interested to know people’s thoughts are and what is common practice in the world of imaging.
  7. Soldering nichrome wire to the power supply copper cable is easy. Just clean it, then twist together the nichrome and copper wire strands into a tight bunch (or ball shape), and then solder (so it is all covered). The solder will hold onto the copper fine and should fully encapsulate the nichrome wire, resulting in a very strong joint. Another option is to tie the nichrome and copper into a knot, and again solder, so it fixes onto the copper and fully encapsulates the nichrome wire at the joint. Both ways are fine, the secret is encapsulation by solder rather than normal met
  8. PM sent with details of the one I bought, incase directly linking publicly here on the forum to a product is not permitted.
  9. Can I suggest you consider looking into a 12v 10amp CCTV power adaptor instead. About £15 from a well known online retailer and I have found them to very reliable long term. 2.1mm splitter leads are cheap too and 10amp gives you ample current for future equipment, or DIY/purchased dew bands etc. You will probably also need some T2 extension tubes (again cheap online) as you don't want to use the diagonal, and with my ED80 the focus tube is out further than I like with no extension tubes and a camera on the end. I don't use a focal reducer though.
  10. Imaging them from Earth is ok, for example a lot of the brighter ones are within easy reach of an ED80 or C8 and almost all cameras on a good tracking mount. But the image is just a round looking white blob of course. Not sure about visually though as I only image remote from inside the house these days as my body doesn’t like the cold anymore . As for finding new ones, there are lots of amateurs who have done it from Earth (even in recent years/decades) but today’s automated surveys means most new ones found are very dim (sub mag17). Finding and imaging existing ones is something I
  11. Here, here - couldn't agree more! His segments are always very enjoyable to watch.
  12. Indeed a good episode. The weight bar at the objective end reminds me of some of the old fullerscopes. Talking of which there was a massive fullerscopes refractor in the UFO episode "Destruction" - a 6" F15 on a MKIV mount according to various references on the net.
  13. Is it the USB2 or USB3 version, as what you are describing are some of the issues people report with the USB2 version. There is a firmware update to try and help and fixes some people's issues. It maybe your USB hub drivers were updated by windows during the year without telling you which is triggering the well known issues with USB2 versions. If it is the USB3 version then the above won't be the issue. Also maybe worth contacting the ZWO support people on their website - I've found them to be very helpful in the past if you take the time to compose a detailed and precise question.
  14. For most of my images I have a folder name that corresponds to the catalog name, then the date, then everything is saved in there. Not elegant, and I need to sort it out, but at least I can find things quickly. For double stars I got fed up with the above approach and manually logging things in excel, so I made my own application to log and catalog things and make reports. It is run from the base of the images directory and uses relative path's to link to images in the directory structure so if everything is moved the relative paths will still work. Again using the simple "Object Name\Cap
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